1987 944 Turbo --> LS
#121
Do not enclose the hoses in a metal tube, it will only act as a cooker, especially after shutdown.
As said in other threads, airflow is your friend ! Enclosing things in can work to a degree...but it can also work against you.
Wrapping the header tubes where they are close to the hose will work fine, or as some suggestions above a simple heat shield, but dont enclose the hose
As said in other threads, airflow is your friend ! Enclosing things in can work to a degree...but it can also work against you.
Wrapping the header tubes where they are close to the hose will work fine, or as some suggestions above a simple heat shield, but dont enclose the hose
Perhaps ceramic coating would also keep some heat in the headers.
#123
#124
But I've seen similar products basically turn into a cooker and burn the crap out of anything inside it. Such problems often occur say after a hard run and you shut the engine down and park. There is simply a limit as to how much heat they can protect against and prolonged radiant heat....****'s just gona get hot no matter what. So whilst yes that stuff can prevent heat getting into the part....once it does get in, it also prevents it escaping again.
#125
It looked to me like the header was coated -- but if not, they should be. Several decades of experience with that. For me, always well worth the money. I used piston-top coating on my manifolds and head pipes inside and out. At warm idle the manifold shows 120F lower temp than my daily's using same IR device. Was a tip from some local NASCAR vendors who swear by it on exhaust components. And I like that the color is different from what you normally see.
#127
Thanks for the input guys. A tin sheild would be great, but there just isn't anywhere I can see to attach it. I'm definitely wrapping the header where the oil lines pass by. I was going to take a crack at it today but I must have run out of stainless zip ties at some point, shopping trip for those districted me and the afternoon disappeared.
#130
Built a small bracket to hold the hydroboost cooler in the area just in front of the coolant tank and behind the driver side headlight. I'll be running this headlight partially up while on track to send cool air to this cooler and the air filter that will also be located here.
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#131
Any way to mount it with the back side more open to promote flow across the coil? Can you NACA duct that headlight for flow without the drag of it being partially open?
I have no idea what I'm talking about. LOL
I have no idea what I'm talking about. LOL
#132
There is actually a fiberglass headlight cover you can buy that is vented to pull in air, I may get one. There is about an inch of airspace behind the cooler (it doesn't mount directly against the silver bracket, might not be clear in picture). So there is at least air space all around it, but getting air to pass through in that area is tricky. The power steering pump is only running the brake hydroboost, I have a manual steering rack, so I'm not too worried about the fluid getting crazy hot. The cooler is essentially replacing the steering rack in the flow diagram.
#134
Put a 12V computer fan on it.
I have a hydroboost and power steering pump with no cooler. I'd shot the power steering pump reservoir with an IR gun and think temps were about 200F after an hour or two of driving in Summer weather. While ago, so details are fuzzy.
Was thinking if I was anywhere near 250F, I'd run a cooler. Certain ATF and similar breaks down quicker at 250F+
Doug
I have a hydroboost and power steering pump with no cooler. I'd shot the power steering pump reservoir with an IR gun and think temps were about 200F after an hour or two of driving in Summer weather. While ago, so details are fuzzy.
Was thinking if I was anywhere near 250F, I'd run a cooler. Certain ATF and similar breaks down quicker at 250F+
Doug
#136
Just about everything under-hood not subject to exhaust component radiation is likely to heat sink to something around 185F-220F (coolant operating temp) if you operate the car for any length of time because of that big lump of metal called the engine. If you want a lower temp than that, you've got to get ambient temp air to a component.
#137
Nothing too exciting to update, taking care of lots of little details, connecting wiring harness and figuring out what extension harnesses I need (only 2!) since the intake was flipped in the last application the engine was used in. Running coolant hoses, starting to sort of PCV, figured out vacuum lines to run HVAC, wired up the alternator pigtail. I'm waiting on a couple of fittings for the hydroboost setup, so that's a bit of a holdup, but still lots I can do until they arrive.
The cowl hood arrived for a little extra clearance, I drilled a couple holes for wiper jets, now it's ready to be wrapped.
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The cowl hood arrived for a little extra clearance, I drilled a couple holes for wiper jets, now it's ready to be wrapped.
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#138
Me and my daughter made a little a bracket for the relays (fans and fuel pump) and fuses. She did all the drill press work and bolted it together, I did the final bolting in place. It sits behind the glove box, the MEFI computer will hide under the passenger footwell floor board where the stock computer lived.
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