Oil priming (topic not covered before)
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 299
Likes: 21
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oil priming (topic not covered before) I'm getting ready to fire up my rebuilt 6.0 and im hoping that the way I primed the oil system will be sufficient.
I haven't seen any posts about doing it this way.
I used the garden sprayer method like many people have done however I plugged it into the port on the backside of the intake where I had my mechanical oil pressure gauge installed.
I pumped about a quart and a half into the engine through this port. I'm hoping this port is as good as the one near the timing chain cover and the one above the oil filter?
I haven't seen any posts about doing it this way.
I used the garden sprayer method like many people have done however I plugged it into the port on the backside of the intake where I had my mechanical oil pressure gauge installed.
I pumped about a quart and a half into the engine through this port. I'm hoping this port is as good as the one near the timing chain cover and the one above the oil filter?
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 8,032
Likes: 661
I prefer this spot to prime. It doesn't introduce air (or alot less) back into the oil galleys when you disconnect the primer. Remember you want oil (steady stream,- no air bubbles) out off all the rockers during priming. You WILL have to rotate the crank a few times to get the oil out of all the rockers. st just like SBC and BBC when priming.
Ideally you want a stead flow of oil as it will blow out air bubbles fir
Remember when priming, you will have oil back flow into the oilpump (and pickup) so this will take a while to FULLY prime. Some people will simply disable the spark and fuel and spin it. I prefer priming. Why chance it.
Best of luck.
Ideally you want a stead flow of oil as it will blow out air bubbles fir
Remember when priming, you will have oil back flow into the oilpump (and pickup) so this will take a while to FULLY prime. Some people will simply disable the spark and fuel and spin it. I prefer priming. Why chance it.
Best of luck.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 299
Likes: 21
From: Phoenix, AZ
I used an assortment of brass fittings and AN fittings I had laying around then connected a rubber line between the sprayer and the fitting. It was probably overkill but better safe than sorry
That pressure port leads into the same oil passages. The only issue i see is that you are trying to fight the air in the system. When you prime using the oil pump (crank engine) or the front/side port on the block, the oil pushes the air out to the highest point.
I subscribe to the starter cranking method with fuel/spark disabled, because there is very little load on the bearings, the speeds are low, and you can prime the system from the bottom up (from the oil pickup all the way to the rockers). This also provides a built-in check that the oil pump is working properly before you fire the engine. There is no risk in losing the prime while you connect and disconnect fittings/ports that would be used to connect a priming tool. Furthermore, the crank method is what GM provides in the LS crate engine instructions.
I subscribe to the starter cranking method with fuel/spark disabled, because there is very little load on the bearings, the speeds are low, and you can prime the system from the bottom up (from the oil pickup all the way to the rockers). This also provides a built-in check that the oil pump is working properly before you fire the engine. There is no risk in losing the prime while you connect and disconnect fittings/ports that would be used to connect a priming tool. Furthermore, the crank method is what GM provides in the LS crate engine instructions.
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 111
Likes: 2
If you remove the spark plugs it will turn over easier and faster for a good prime. Also lessens pressure on the bearings. If assembly lube was used when the engine was put together the starter method would be my preference.
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