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Plug wires arcing to the header through wire sleeve

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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 08:02 AM
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Default Plug wires arcing to the header through wire sleeve

So I have a swapped car with some tight clearance around the spark plug wires and headers. it misfire a little bit but it is getting worse and I can see the wires arcing on the headers bolts on at least two wires.

I had to use the shorty accell plugs and make my own wires.

Actually I modified some multi angle MSD wires. I replaced the long straight boots with some short 45deg boots. On cylinder #7 the wire would touch the header, and one some others it will be very close to touch.

Now I'm trying to figure out what I could do to avoid the arcing...and maybe what I did wrong.

I used some PL100 lube to slide the plug wires boots on the wires. Could that cause the voltage to short on the boot?

I used some Taylor spark plug wires heat sleeve. Supposely these can touch the header and deal with it fine... but I could see the arc going THROUGH the sleeve to the header bolt... are these boots conductive???? If I could see the arc, it mean that this was on the wires that the sleeve DO NOT touch the header or the block... actually the sleeve with the best clearance...


Also I tried the accel ceramic one with the 135deg boot, but it wont fit on at least 2 cylinder (including 7 which has the worst clearance).
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 08:42 PM
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The plug wire sleeves are worthless. I kept melting wires with the sleeves on so I took them off and it stopped melting wires. I think the sleeves hold the heat in making it worse.Plug wires arcing to the header through wire sleeve-photo245.jpg
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 11:17 PM
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Re-ground the engine, and around the coils. Give the coils a very low resistance pathway to the plug, and engine block. Make sure there is a nice fat cable going from engine -> chassis and then chassis -> battery in multiple locations.

Spark avoids the plug when it finds a better pathway. So make the pathway away from the plug more resistive (adding insulation does this). If you added insulation and the pathway is STILL looking better than the engine block/ground, then you are obviously missing a serious ground or overlooking something in the construction of the wire pathway.
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Old Jul 28, 2017 | 07:16 AM
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DEI makes some boots/sleeves which are very well rated. I think they are made from titanium instead of fiberglass and protect up to 1800 degrees
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Old Jul 28, 2017 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 04Z06vette
DEI makes some boots/sleeves which are very well rated. I think they are made from titanium instead of fiberglass and protect up to 1800 degrees
That's what I have and they are ****.
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Old Jul 28, 2017 | 01:24 PM
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Thanks for the tips, I'll add some additionnal ground from the battery to the chassis and from the chassis to the battery when I get back home to see if it helps. For now I have a 1/0 wire from the negative to a roll cage bolt and the engine ground is a gauge 1 wire from the passenger head to a bolt that attach the remote oil filter mount to the passenger frame rail (bolt is threaded directly into the frame rail). I thought that would be good enough but adding more grounds for testing is easy and inexpensive.

I don't think I've melt any wire yet, I've only done some mild street driving, I haven't push the car much yet. For now I think I'll keep the thermal sleeves unless I melt a wire with them.

I'm probably going to get some new spark plug wires too since these have arced. From what I've read this has created an inductive path for the voltage to escape on the wires... this suck.

Hopefully this will be enough to cure my misfiring/arcing problem.
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Old Jul 28, 2017 | 10:43 PM
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Grounding is not your problem, obviously you have a crack in the insulation of the wire, you plug sparks from the inside which is ceramic insulated to the outside of the plug which is grounded via being screwed into your block. So, either you have a cracked plug or your wire is cracked and letting voltage leak through. My 2 cents. Peace...
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Old Jul 29, 2017 | 07:03 PM
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Running grounds thru the frame IS NOT a good practice.
This topic is constantly being cussed, discussed, and debated.
Try a search, and learn from that.
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Old Jul 29, 2017 | 11:52 PM
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There should be a big wire from the battery negative side directly to the block.

Andrew
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 08:15 PM
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So wire #7 has melt. While the sleeve is intact, the wire burnt throught.

I just ordered a set from msd... I'll try to reroute #7 under the #5 runner so it come up beside #5 wire... to be continued
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Old Aug 20, 2017 | 02:52 PM
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So two wires burned through the sleeve. I bought some Taylor wires and decided to try making some bracket that bolt to the head to keep the wire away from the headers... I can't use the sleeves with the brackets so I'm hoping the wires will hold up with a bit more than 1/4" of clearance. The brackets are some steel flat I shaped...i hope they won't heat up to the point of melting the wires.
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Old Aug 20, 2017 | 05:59 PM
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maybe try some of the sleeve that actually goes over the wire itself. like the accel pro sleeve type product. i use nascar take off wires that have a similar product made by champion on my turbo truck.

that and plenty of dielectric grease
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Old Aug 20, 2017 | 06:16 PM
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Oh the sleeve is going over the wire. The sleeve didn't keep the heat away of the wire where it was resting again the header.

I have the feeling that the sleeve helps as long it's not resting against the header....the sleeves are fine but the MSD wires melted anyway!

I just went for a drive with this setup, so far so good! The real test will be once I hit the track with the car.

Last edited by Djays12; Aug 24, 2017 at 09:46 PM.
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