68 Mustang L96 6L90E conversion
08-16-2017, 11:14 AM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
68 Mustang L96 6L90E conversion I am starting this thread on my conversion to a L96/6L90E from a not so original (severely rusted out) 289/C4 car Mustang convertible. I will be posting pictures of what has been done (pics that I have) and hopefully what will come during the next part of the conversion. I already have the motor and trans from a 2012 3500 express van and hope to fit it into the modded chassis of the now 67 looking convertible. Most of this have been done with a budget in mind (maybe not yours but what I deem necessary to meet my goals)
My goals are :
Driver, not show car
Modded, not wild
400-450 HP NA
Automatic
fair weather car.
More to come...
My goals are :
Driver, not show car
Modded, not wild
400-450 HP NA
Automatic
fair weather car.
More to come...
08-17-2017, 11:05 AM
#2
Teching In
Thread Starter
Sorry, this may take me awhile to get the words and pictures in here for what has been done so far but I will to do this in installments...
Purchased car in Fall 2009, running with working power top all factory drivetrain 289/c4/8.0 2:79 open diff drums at the 4 corners.
I knew car was rusted out with import fender and floor in same shape. I bought it knowing I was going to make it my own... not knowing it would lead me to an LS swap. I purchased a 351 Block with stock rotating assembly in the hopes of rebuilding it. Over the course of the next 13-14 years I had 2 kids a set of braces a new house and 1 or 2 daily driver purchases... So a budget had to be set... Below I will be posting pictures starting with the body work that was done on up.... What I have pictures of that is.
Purchased car in Fall 2009, running with working power top all factory drivetrain 289/c4/8.0 2:79 open diff drums at the 4 corners.
I knew car was rusted out with import fender and floor in same shape. I bought it knowing I was going to make it my own... not knowing it would lead me to an LS swap. I purchased a 351 Block with stock rotating assembly in the hopes of rebuilding it. Over the course of the next 13-14 years I had 2 kids a set of braces a new house and 1 or 2 daily driver purchases... So a budget had to be set... Below I will be posting pictures starting with the body work that was done on up.... What I have pictures of that is.
08-18-2017, 01:56 PM
#4
l96s were 400 horse stock , headers will bump that up some , and when the tuner removes vats from the computer , have him bump up the power enrichment table , done , hell of an engine/transmission combo
08-19-2017, 01:10 PM
#5
Teching In
Thread Starter
Update My post on the body work is pending approval (as it should for new peeps) so I will continue on and try to reoder the posts if they get out of order. Once the body work was mostly completed I moved on to the drive train. I started with the mind set to make everything capable for 500hp, so I would have to worry about the parts failing under stress.
I decided to install an 8.8 rear (for cost reasons) rather than a 9in. I knew I wanted disk brakes all the way around so I found a 97 Ford Explorer and removed the 8.8 31 spline 4:10 rear and installed new axles, disk brake hardware and cover with bearing supports (cause it looks cool). I ground the old axle mounts off and had new ones welded on at (at this point I didn't have a welder). I chose to have it welded at 1.5 degrees neg. I installed the rear with new Grab-a-trak 4 1/2 leaf rear springs. Pictures to follow.
Next update will get into the front end stuff and K member install
I decided to install an 8.8 rear (for cost reasons) rather than a 9in. I knew I wanted disk brakes all the way around so I found a 97 Ford Explorer and removed the 8.8 31 spline 4:10 rear and installed new axles, disk brake hardware and cover with bearing supports (cause it looks cool). I ground the old axle mounts off and had new ones welded on at (at this point I didn't have a welder). I chose to have it welded at 1.5 degrees neg. I installed the rear with new Grab-a-trak 4 1/2 leaf rear springs. Pictures to follow.
Next update will get into the front end stuff and K member install
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09-06-2017, 09:25 PM
#8
Teching In
Thread Starter
cut, saw, fold, and stretch. The trans won't clear the tunnel. The tunnel will be cleared before it goes in. Weather permitting I may be installing it the weekend. I will/ may need to remove the oil pan due to the fact I will be installing a moroso low profile one for clearance issues. I am jumping ahead... more on that later. House upgrades are taking my time but I will be posting k-member used and all soon.
09-07-2017, 11:17 AM
#9
Teching In
Thread Starter
K-Member While I was adding the prices up for the disc brakes, rack and pin, and lowering spindle, found a sub-frame kit that would cover all of that and more for $1200.00. Speedway sell a kit that gave me all that a stiffer frame and saved me enough for a welder to install it myself. So I ordered the parts and got great customer service.... The instructions are were lacking though... After cutting grinding and welding I got the new sub-frame installed. Pictures to follow once I upload them to a picture site.
09-11-2017, 10:48 AM
#11
Teching In
Thread Starter
booboo37, I had thought of doing something like that, even welding a distributor to the valley plate. It's just not in my budget right now... but that's a great looking clone.
09-11-2017, 11:50 AM
#12
TECH Senior Member
Plus, the LS is also a Y-block! How poetic....
09-12-2017, 10:58 AM
#13
Teching In
Thread Starter
Below is a link to some of this pics I have. will be loading more...this is a bit new to me.
68 Mustang Resto LS
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2xyOulhE7mcEnGbl1
68 Mustang Resto LS
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2xyOulhE7mcEnGbl1
09-12-2017, 11:04 AM
#14
09-18-2017, 11:13 AM
#16
Teching In
Thread Starter
Oil pan is in and if schedules line up Friday. I will be dropping the Engine and trans into the car. I will add the pictures to the link above and repost it below. I will try for so detailed pics and descriptions in my next post.
10-04-2017, 11:21 AM
#17
Teching In
Thread Starter
Ok, After 2 days and a week to get time on the PC I have an LS resting in the engine bay of my Mustang...
I started with the oil pan install, it went smoothly with a few modifications I was able to keep the stock windage tray (WT). I had to lightly bend the front of the WT to clear the new oil pick up tube and the oil dipstick tube... I measured the dipstick tube from block and made sure the distance was the same for oil level purposes. I also had to grind the inside lip of the new pan as it was hitting the WT, nothing major more taking the edge off.
I chose to remove the stock truck manifolds to install a set of factory E-Rod manifolds. They are lighter, smooth (inside) and narrow the fit by almost 2-3 inches total width (manifold to manifold) once done I installed a set of motor mount lifts custom made to make up for my poor calculations or the IFS poor engineering, so the oil pan would clear.
With the lift plates welded in the motor went in... I am still working on the trans hump. as 1989GTA said the trans fitment will be something to follow... specially with the entire thing being 2.5 inches higher than planned. pictures in link on next post.
I started with the oil pan install, it went smoothly with a few modifications I was able to keep the stock windage tray (WT). I had to lightly bend the front of the WT to clear the new oil pick up tube and the oil dipstick tube... I measured the dipstick tube from block and made sure the distance was the same for oil level purposes. I also had to grind the inside lip of the new pan as it was hitting the WT, nothing major more taking the edge off.
I chose to remove the stock truck manifolds to install a set of factory E-Rod manifolds. They are lighter, smooth (inside) and narrow the fit by almost 2-3 inches total width (manifold to manifold) once done I installed a set of motor mount lifts custom made to make up for my poor calculations or the IFS poor engineering, so the oil pan would clear.
With the lift plates welded in the motor went in... I am still working on the trans hump. as 1989GTA said the trans fitment will be something to follow... specially with the entire thing being 2.5 inches higher than planned. pictures in link on next post.
10-05-2017, 10:53 AM
#20
Teching In
Thread Starter
@ Project GatTagO, your right... I didn't feel I could pass up the chance... the MII kit only cost $1200... I know that's a lot, but it included 2" drop spindles, Manual rack, disc brakes. springs, and shocks. Hard to get all that for the price in separate pcs.