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Hey guys! Former carb guy switching over to the LS family. Ive got a 1980 pro street c10 that formerly was the home of a Dart 383 that now has a hole in the side of the block. So I picked up a 2006 LQ4 with 72,000 miles out of a Yukon Denali. I'm planning on running my th400 for the time being but Id like to go for a manual valve body 4l80E.
I decided to join to ask you guys stupid questions like who is the best person to send my harness to to have it converted to a standalone harness, have the PCM tuned and a OBD2 port added. Soooooo if you know you could do a favor for the newb (I have contacted 3 companies about it but no one feels the need to respond.)
I figured that I have to send the PCM in to get the Vat/ETC tuned out so I might as well just find someone and have both done. It would be great if there was recommended member on here that would be willing to do it for cheaper than the 500-700 that sites want for a new standalone.
You can do the harness yourself in a weekend for next to nothing.
This site tells you what wires to remove, what to add, etc. http://lt1swap.com/wiringharness.htm
Adding an OBD port is easy. One single wire coming from the harness goes to the OBD port. There will be 2 other wires on the port for ground and 12v constant. Thats it.
Look for a local to have the PCM flashed. There are a few sponsors here that do mail-order type stuff that would gladly help you out.
You can do the harness yourself in a weekend for next to nothing.
This site tells you what wires to remove, what to add, etc. http://lt1swap.com/wiringharness.htm
Adding an OBD port is easy. One single wire coming from the harness goes to the OBD port. There will be 2 other wires on the port for ground and 12v constant. Thats it.
Look for a local to have the PCM flashed. There are a few sponsors here that do mail-order type stuff that would gladly help you out.
Thanks Joe! I have been looking at all of the info on the lt1 swap site but it was a little overwhelming to me. I guess ill give it a shot.
Its not bad.
Get the engine in first and all of the hardware there. Do the wiring last.
De-pin all of the wires in the harness. Then start plugging in the connectors.
Route them to where you plan on putting the computer, and plug them back in. If you want it to look clean, cut the wires to length and crimp on a new pin for the PCM connector. They're 25 to 50 cents each depending on where you buy from. Some people just cut/solder, or bundle up the excess length and put some loom over it.
Pink wires from the injectors, coils, MAF, O2 sensors, and 2 from the PCM will go to a fuse panel that's fed 12v ignition power. I usually buy the cheap 6-fuse panel from Autozone and use that. Other than that, you give constant battery power to the PCM, and ground it.
Why no carb this engine? Or you just wanting to go
Efi?
If you bought a complete engine with intake, rails, injectors, wiring, and PCM, it is much more expensive to go carburetor. Just the MSD box is the same price as modifying your own harness and having the PCM reflashed to delete VATS/etc.
Its not bad.
Get the engine in first and all of the hardware there. Do the wiring last.
De-pin all of the wires in the harness. Then start plugging in the connectors.
Route them to where you plan on putting the computer, and plug them back in. If you want it to look clean, cut the wires to length and crimp on a new pin for the PCM connector. They're 25 to 50 cents each depending on where you buy from. Some people just cut/solder, or bundle up the excess length and put some loom over it.
Pink wires from the injectors, coils, MAF, O2 sensors, and 2 from the PCM will go to a fuse panel that's fed 12v ignition power. I usually buy the cheap 6-fuse panel from Autozone and use that. Other than that, you give constant battery power to the PCM, and ground it.
Thanks Joenova.... I put the motor in over the weekend and got my up and forward turbo headers mounted so I know where to not run the wires. Ill be starting on the wiring this weekend weather permitting. I will most likely be back on here bugging you.
Well guys, Lets fast forward two years to the current state of the truck. It is finally finished (well for now). I've put about 600 miles on it over the past 2 weeks and its done great. I have had a few bugs pop up like the idler pulley and PS pump but other than that its running great. I am currently running 91 octane and have it limited to 8 psi of boost. It made 479 to the wheels over the weekend at the C10 nationals. I was pretty happy with that and that it didn't burst into flames. I have easy access to E85 at a ton of places here in OKC so I thought changing over to that would be a wise decision before I take the next step to 12 psi. My fuel system is already set up for e85 so it will just be tuning changes on the Holley HP.
LQ4 6.0
LJMS stage 2 turbo cam (with springs and pushrods)
s475 knock off
80lb DEKA injectors
Holley high ram
3" hot side
3" Intercooler (IAT one the dyno was 130 so not to bad)
BR7EF NKG plugs
TH400 (2600 stall 10" summit converter, will be changing to a PTC converter soon)
Dual 400lph pumps
10an feed lines (splits to dual 8an about a foot before the rails)
10an return
Parts I have but have not installed yet.
ARP studs
Cometic gaskets
What I would like help with is the timing table on the Holley hp. If anyone has a timing table for e85 they wouldn't mind sharing it would be greatly appreciated. Timing is something that I am in the process of learning about so if anyone knows of any good threads or articles please feel free to share a link or two.
Now that the truck is together I will probably be on here asking for help from time to time. I lurked this site and the turbo forum for most of my info and I wanted to do most of it on my own but I am to the point where I need help so I don't blow it up.
Yes, most legitimate questions get answered there, or you will get directed to a similar thread that will help you out.
That is a very informative site.
This is my timing table. This was one of the base cals that came with the holley (20psi 6.0 DBW)
Any input would be much appreciated!
love me a sweet rcsb! Very nice man
You Must have gave up on the factory pcm and harness? Definitely saved you some headache going Holley though.
Timing looks somewhat tame down low and pretty aggressive up in boost. what fuel are you using?
I can send you what my factory 4.8 timing table or a factory ls1 table from EFI live for you to compare how GM did it. They are pretty aggressive with the timing down low in comparison to yours. But GM also has idle timing tables and a main advance table. So the timing is pretty low in the idle timing table, and when you give it throttle is moves to the main advance table. This is something I need to smooth out on my truck when I find some time
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Coming to the dark side 
