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Placement of the MAF

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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 07:02 PM
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Default Placement of the MAF

Forgive me if this has been asked before, I searched and didn't find anything that specifically answered my question.

I ordered the cold air intake from Spectre a while ago and wasn’t sure where to place the MAF. I contacted the Spectre Technical Support and they told me to place it at 4 o’clock or 8 o’clock. So that is where I welded it. As I'm getting closer to starting the car, I was reading the LS Crate Engine Control System specification and it says it should be mounted between 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock (on the top half). Now I’m concerned I have it in the wrong position. Which is correct and what kind of problems might I encounter if it is mounted incorrectly?

Thanks for your help!

Drew
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 08:14 PM
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I'm not so sure clocking is as important as where it is in relation to any curves. I know I read somewhere it should be in a straight section about 6" from the curve before it and about 4" before the next curve.
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 08:32 PM
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Spectre did inform me it needed to be at least 6 inches from the bend before the throttle body, so I'm good there. My concern is based on the figure from the LS Series Crate Engine Control System spec. See the attached figure.
Attached Thumbnails Placement of the MAF-page2.jpg  
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 09:03 PM
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You got me there. GM says one thing, Spectre says another. I would ask Spectre if GM's instructions apply, or if theirs supercedes that. I'm not sure it really makes any difference. Whose MAF is it? GM or Spectre? I would listen to the mfr.
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 09:27 PM
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It's a GM MAF. Bad thing is I would have to get a new tube and re-weld a new boss on it. Just wanted to get some input from people before I went to all that trouble. Thanks for you help!!
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 10:08 PM
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I would run it as is. I really doubt how it's clocked makes any difference in its function. I hope someone could chime in on this if I'm wrong.
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Old Dec 10, 2017 | 08:40 AM
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"Clocked" at 3 or 9 o'clock depending on your perspective. About 1/2 way between the 45 degree and 90 degree bends. Flawless performance. A few degrees difference on the clock won't make any difference --
run it Drew. Just be SURE you seal up all connections on that air inlet piping. If air can enter (through fittings, clamped connections) in between the maf and the throttle body, you'll get a check engine light. Don't ask how I know.



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Old Dec 10, 2017 | 11:02 AM
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Thank you Michael! A little real-world stuff always helps.
And yeah, MAF gospel IS, NO "renegade" air allowed! lol Think of the MAF as a security gate. If MAF didn't see it, it should NOT be there! lol
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Old Dec 10, 2017 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Yount
"Clocked" at 3 or 9 o'clock depending on your perspective. About 1/2 way between the 45 degree and 90 degree bends. Flawless performance. A few degrees difference on the clock won't make any difference --
run it Drew. Just be SURE you seal up all connections on that air inlet piping. If air can enter (through fittings, clamped connections) in between the maf and the throttle body, you'll get a check engine light. Don't ask how I know.
Thanks Michael!! I will double check all my connections! BTW, what did you paint your tube with? Looks really cool!

Last edited by drews_camaro; Dec 10, 2017 at 07:31 PM. Reason: Ask another question
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Old Dec 10, 2017 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
I would run it as is. I really doubt how it's clocked makes any difference in its function. I hope someone could chime in on this if I'm wrong.
I'm going to give it a shot! Thanks again for your help!!
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Old Dec 10, 2017 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by drews_camaro
Thanks Michael!! I will double check all my connections! BTW, what did you paint your tube with? Looks really cool!
Well....looked cool indeed. Black bed liner to match the finish on my Holley valve covers. HOWEVER --- that's what caused my air leaks. A little too much texture to seal with the rubber elbow. Had to smooth it down under the elbow connection, grease it up and tighten 'er back down. Plug in dongle, fire up phone app, clear the CEL code -- voila, no more problems.

I liked how it came out too -- trying to get the plastic acoustic intake cover, the valve covers and the intake pipe to look similar and kind of OEM.

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Old Dec 10, 2017 | 10:01 PM
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Next time try a little "Trim Black". Auto paint suppliers have it in rattle cans. It's a cross between gloss and flat black. Semi-gloss, I guess you call it. Gives off a very factory look.
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 06:44 AM
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I use a "satin" black (see compartment) --- but that doesn't have enough texture to match the intake and valve covers.
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 08:37 AM
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My GUESS on the clocking is that it may be affected by moisture in the air steam. Similar to O2 sensors in the exhaust, on long tube headers you want the O2 sensor at 2:30 or 9:30 which is close to 3:00 & 9:00 for any moisture to drip off the sensor rather down into it.

It will probably be fine for the short term but may or may not have issues years down the road, either way I would trust the G.M. research and development dept. over Spectre any day.
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by lizeec
My GUESS on the clocking is that it may be affected by moisture in the air steam. Similar to O2 sensors in the exhaust, on long tube headers you want the O2 sensor at 2:30 or 9:30 which is close to 3:00 & 9:00 for any moisture to drip off the sensor rather down into it.

It will probably be fine for the short term but may or may not have issues years down the road, either way I would trust the G.M. research and development dept. over Spectre any day.
Exhaust is LOADED with H2O as product of combustion and on cold start condensation is a huge issue. Those conditions not present in the air inlet tube. Nonetheless keeping it off the bottom a good idea.
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 11:18 AM
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I would say anywhere BUT the 5 thru 7 o'clock positions would work well.
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Old Dec 12, 2017 | 08:35 PM
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Thanks for all your input guys!! Really appreciate it!
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