LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

I need to buy the rest of the stuff to swap in an LS1 fbody t56 into my 69 camaro. It was an auto car before. I have a stock lq4 6.0 engine mounted using the holly swap kit. If anyone could help me out on what they bought or should have bought from the get go that works or worked. So here’s the list of what I already have for my swap.

Ls1 fbody t56 with bell housing and stock shifter
Holly t56 crossmember with prothane mount
Clutch & flywheel - I haven’t decided yet

Now what other parts do I need and which parts to get for this swap? If something is better than something else please let me know. I’ve seen people say they use stock ls1 master cylinders and slave setups but is there better or that’s all?

Clutch pedal setup
Master cylinder setup
Bracket for master cylinder setup
Slave cylinder setup

If there’s anything I missed please post up your thoughts or comments, anything positive or negative is always welcomed as I don’t wanna do anything twice.

GonHuntin

iTrader: (2)

I used a Speedtech clutch master bracket and the factory clutch master, throw out bearing and hose out of my '02 Trans Am donor car...factory '68 clutch pedal..works great.

Senna

iTrader: (1)

In my 66 Chevelle, I used

McLeod Hydraulic conversion.
It had
The pedal already set up for hydraulic geometry.
The master cylinder with mounting bracket
and a piece of -4 line.

I used a GM slave cylinder That I converted to -4 on both pressure and bleed ports.

For a clutch I used Ram Muscle car clutch and their flywheel.

Haven't run any of it yet, but I did have it mocked up recently and with clutch bleed and depressed I could easily spin the tail shaft.

showdog75

iTrader: (8)

I second the McCleod. Don't use a stock f-body master when it is likely you won't be using a stock clutch.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

Last time I pulled up McLeod in a search, it had a lot of bad reviews from people on this site. Hard to spend money on one with so many bad reviews.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

LS7 clutch, stock master and slave. Easy parts availability, oem quality and cheap.
https://www.partsgeek.com/mcpj12g-ch...lutch-kit.html

G Atsma

Except the LS7 clutch weighs a TON!

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

Then it ought to get along fine with the T56....

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

You could always use a tick clutch master for the 98-02 fbodies too. I found a good deal on a used one and am running that.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

Dam... Tick is expensive but looks to have good reviews.
Ryeguy, what pedal, master cylinder mount are you using? What clutch also?

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

I've been running a stock master and slave for over 5 years now with zero issues. As stated oem reliability and easy to source parts but I have heard of issues with them and some aftermarket clutches.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

I'm using a mount that I bought off of eBay, but if I had to do it over again I would look at the Speedtech mount. Clutch pedals are the OER set from Jeg's and I'm not entirely sure what clutch I have. I believe it is the stock flywheel but the clutch is a mystery. It came with my 6 speed when I bought it.

Aston Tibs

iTrader: (3)

I did the same and I am using the Detroit Speed mounting bracket. I modified the stock clutch pedal and the process is covered in my build thread.
With 400 RWHP, I had some clutch slippage at the track, but I am not entirely convinced it wasn't something I did (like resting my foot on the pedal). I also have a shim behind my slave (long story, in my build thread) and that may be my slipping issue as well.

I had my tailhousing converted to use the mechanical speedometer. Works very well, but I have some minor leakage issues.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

Maybe I should just go with the stock master and slave, do the drill mod and buy a bleed line to make it easier to flush.
Then go ls7 clutch setup but I thought you can get a lighter flywheel for it.
If the ls7 clutch doesn’t hold, I’ll swap it all out and what I just bought can go into my 00 SS as it has a lot of miles on the original stock setup, 160k.

This is just a thought but let’s see what others think or say

luvyab1ue

What if any mods had to be done to the stock clutch master ect. I am transplanting a 98 t56 into a 68 camaro, I prefer to use as much of the stock 98 camaro as possible as I bought the whole car.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Many people do the "drill mod", but nothing needs to be done to it. In order to mount it to your firewall you need to buy one of the conversion plates that bolts in between your firewall and brake booster.

luvyab1ue

I feel like in my heart that a lot of these kits are not necessary, what I mean is as I do the ls swap it seems that there is a kit here for 800 or this a kit there
for 500 that will do the brackets, and my thinking as I looked at the hydraulic kit from McLeod and mdl for the hydraulic set-up for 1st gen , I thought wait, I have two sets of clutch pedals one in my 98 one in the 68. I have a tick remote bleeder , do I really need another kit? I guess I need to brush up on what the “drill mod” is? My question is do I have to modify the clutch master (push rod), pedal, because these kits come with a master cylinder and pedal? Or does anyone now between the stock 68 clutch pedal or a 98 z28 pedal which is the path of least resistance. I know it’s a lot of info, but the only weapon I have is info at this time. I feel like the aftermarket preys on consumers with all of these “kits” which are bolt in. Any help here,.... I would be so grateful.
Thanks for the response already. I am running a stick ls1 drivetrain t56 from 98 into a 68 already purchased remote bleeder and luk ls7 clutch kit.
God Bless.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

In the stock clutch master cylinders there is a built in restriction which most assume is GM limiting how fast you can shift. If you don't do the mod, your clutch pedal will stick to the floor. The mod essentially has you take off the stock line, drill it and re-install to eliminate the restriction. I personally am running a 98-02 Fbody Tick master cylinder that uses a Tilton master cylinder. It has an adjustable rod on it, and what I did was shortened it less than an inch because in stock form, it was too long. I'm still using the same firewall plate that I mentioned in my first post here, but if I had to do it all over I'd run the one from DSE. I'm running stock Camaro 4 speed pedals and with the trimmed down rod, it fits together very nicely. I also welded in an adjustable pedal stop to avoid overthrowing the throws on hard shifts. You can look at my build thread for the pictures. I think I did all that sometime in the summer of 2018.

luvyab1ue

Thanks for the reply,
I am assuming that DSE is Detroit Speed Engineering bracket here:https://www.detroitspeed.com/clutch-...74-nova-070424?
So your advice? Get a kit from Mcleod or Mdl that come with a pedal and adjustable Master and plate and pedal, for about 300 bones. Or, get the plate, and use a stock Master that will need mod. And I have both the stock four speed pedals and pedals from a 98-f-body at my disposal. I am trying very hard not to be wasteful, but 300. is not terrible. God Bless, thanks for letting pick your brain.
https://www.moderndriveline.com/shop...ch-master-kit/
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/McLeo...ro,355550.html

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

If you are trying to save a buck, get that DSE bracket from the link you sent and modify your 98 master cylinder. You can modify it to be adjustable here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...r-writeup.html

Then also do the drill mod. Or just get the kit that's complete and bolt in if you don't mind spending the cash.