I purchased a universal Griffin radiator with the dual electric fans. I need to get a new condenser to go with the radiator. The engine is a stock 2004 5.3 avalance / 4l60e that's going into a 1978 Caprice. In case it's relevant, I'll also have a trans cooler in front of the condenser. The condensers I saw on some of the websites were very, very expensive.

What kind of condensers have you guys used that is keeping your AC cool? I don't feel like I should have to spend something like $600 or more on a condenser. I'd appreciate your input. Again, stock setup that AT BEST may one day have some mild upgrades. This is a daily driver/ commuter, not a super hot rod.

Thanks,
Brandon

 

Have you checked RockAuto for a replacement for the one your car had originally? This is not a precise thing. As long as it can be made to fit in front of your radiator close enough for airflow to be pulled thru it there should be no problem.

 

 

The efficiency of an A/C system is the condenser. As noted above the fin type is a vast improvement over the older tube design. Getting the biggest condenser to fit your car is a smart move to enjoy cold A/C. On to price. I use aluminum fin type designed for a '32 Ford which, on a fat fender car is about as big a condenser that will fit. Cost of those are about $100. For a larger universal I would think around $130.

 

Thanks for the replies. That's what scares me is the discrepancy in the cost between so many of the options. So something like this would be adequate (not considering size, but just brand and price): Condenser

I saw some else where for $400-$600 which seemed ridiculous and made me wonder if the $150 units were a cheap unit that wouldn't cool properly.

Thanks,
Brandon

 

Classic Auto Air, where I got my system, was started by folks that left Vintage Air. So you've linked a similar product to what I mentioned above. These guys have put aftermarket A/C in a HUGE number of custom built cars out there -- and do a bunch of OEM replacement work. Yes - get a "universal" condenser from either of them and you should be fine -- you can usually order with the fittings on the side/top/bottom facing the way you want for your set up. Back to the important part --- get the LARGEST one you can fit and be sure your fans pull all air across it.

 

Look at the 96-04 S10's they can be had new for about $60 shipped and have screw in connections.

 

Vetteman - what part of the country you in? Summer A/C load in coastal southern CA or New England is entirely different than in AZ/NM or the S.E. US.

 

Im using a GM NOS serp condensor for my 92 s10. But im also running r12 and a Sanden sd7. Ifbi were to run 134a i would go with a parallel flow. The r12 cools so efficient it really doesnt matter

 

Went through old files cleaning up closets for a garage sale (wife's orders!) --- my Classic Auto Air condenser (part of a "kit", but I got to pick the size/config) was part number 11-1041 -- and in their price listing from a couple of years ago it lists at $139.95. Sure it's gone up a bit since then, but provides a data point. It's 14" x 20" --- I'm getting 36F degree air out with the fan on "high" at 90F ambient temps. I don't think you need be afraid of $150 contemporary condensers from reputable suppliers.

As for 'replacement' condensers from Rock Auto and the like -- I'd just like to know more about the construction before I buy. If they're old-school fin-tube construction, I'd stay away.

 

I'm in Tennessee. The summers can get very humid here. Thanks for the feedback. I'll probably get my radiator set in the car and measure and get the biggest parallel flow I can stuff in there.

Any suggestions on a trans cooler? This is just a stock 4l60e in a 3600 lb car. What type or size trans cooler should I get?

 

Others will help - all manual transmissions for 47 years of driving. I will add this though. Anything put in front of the radiator transfers its heat into the radiator. As long as it has enough excess capacity to cool the motor and the other bits (condenser, tranny) - no problem. I mounted my engine oil cooler in a way where the hot air off of it goes UNDER the car and not back across the rad. So I get true incremental heat transfer.

 

Several manufacturers have switched the designs of their factory replacement condensers from the old tube to modern aluminum fin. I recently replaced the condenser in my 91 Jeep Grand Wagoneer with a factory replacement unit from RockAuto. Fitment was identical and the design has been updated to finned aluminum.

 

For the trans cooler, keep in mind not all LS motors even ran a trans cooler, just the cooler in the radiator.
My LQ9 6.0 did have a small finned trans cooler in addition to the radiator trans cooler. So unless you're towing, racing, etc, you probably wont need a large one.

 

I should add that I ordered a manual transmission radiator to eliminate the radiator-installed trans cooler and I'm going to be running only an external transmission cooler.

 

From what I've been told, that's not the best idea with an electronically controlled trans. They rely on trans fluid temps to operate correctly. Without the radiator cooler, it could take too long to warm, or not get warm enough.

 

Fixed it for you. (chuckle)

These (newer) powertrains are regularly sold into cold climates where, for 6-8 months at a time, the t'stat barely opens and coolant in the radiator stays cool/warm if not cold. I've gotta think that's not shutting the transmissions down. But, just thinking out loud....

 

My initial thoughts too. But I've got an 05 Nissan which is notorious for the trans cooler in the radiator leaking and contaminating the trans fluid. Lots of people just bypassed with a cheap aftermarket external cooler. Apparently functions like TCC lockup and some other functions are controlled by ECT and trans fluid temp. I went with an aftermarket radiator at 90k mile before the issue arose. Besides, almost everything on the road runs just the radiator trans cooler with few issues.

 

Brother in the tranny business - well known/documented problem with the Nissans.

 

Well, I didn't know of that issue. I suppose it's too late now.

What did you mean by "that's not shutting the transmission down?" The fact that the fluid is staying cool in cooler climates?