Transmission lines
Transmission lines If I'm going to make new transmission lines, can I just make them out of regular steel lines from the parts house like used for brake lines?
I was going to use -6 steel braided lines, but then the new radiator got here and the fittings are on the driver side of the car. Given that, I believe hardlines will be easier to route and mount now.
Thanks,
Brandon
I was going to use -6 steel braided lines, but then the new radiator got here and the fittings are on the driver side of the car. Given that, I believe hardlines will be easier to route and mount now.
Thanks,
Brandon
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Joined: Apr 2014
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I have made them out of hydraulic hose, and worked fine, but i prefer the hard line like you get at the parts house,
don't have to worry as much about leaks. I used 3/8 and had no problems.
Just be sure to get the proper fittings.
don't have to worry as much about leaks. I used 3/8 and had no problems.
Just be sure to get the proper fittings.
I use NiCopp almost exclusively for rigid brake, fuel and transmission lines. The stuff is a dream to work and doesn't rust.
I am not a fan of steel braided lines on street cars for several reasons.
The lines on a 4L60E are 3/8" and require a special flare to match the factory fitting. I have a hydraulic tool from Mastercool that does these and several other OEM flares. You can replace the fittings on the transmission side with single flare adapters to use common flare tools then make the lines with NiCopp.
If you are interested in NiCopp for fuel or transmission lines google CNC-625. This is 3/8" NiCopp line in a 25 foot roll.
I am not a fan of steel braided lines on street cars for several reasons.
The lines on a 4L60E are 3/8" and require a special flare to match the factory fitting. I have a hydraulic tool from Mastercool that does these and several other OEM flares. You can replace the fittings on the transmission side with single flare adapters to use common flare tools then make the lines with NiCopp.
If you are interested in NiCopp for fuel or transmission lines google CNC-625. This is 3/8" NiCopp line in a 25 foot roll.
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TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: White Bear, Mn
The other reason is the "cooler" in the radiator is sitting in coolant that is 180-220 degrees. That's heating up the transmission fluid, not cooling it down. You will see lower tranny temps bypassing the radiator "cooler" and using a nice plate style stand alone.
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Launching!
Joined: Nov 2017
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From: Oregon City
I agree an aftermarket cooler is a good idea, but if your temps don't get hotter than recommended then you could be fine without one. I also feel that a lot of swaps have people getting new radiators anyways. My cheap ebay has a built in cooler.. I have a 4l80e and my car should weigh less than a truck that it came out of so I won't be doing an external cooler till I have proof that it needs it otherwise its just more money that may be better spent elsewhere.. just a thought.
Go for it,all you need is a cheapo bender,flaring kit and a lot of patience. It is time consuming and you will destroy a couple of pieces as you learn, that is why most people go with braided lines, they can be a lot easier.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Central Cal.
Once your tranny heats up, it is HOTTER than coolant. Keep the radiator cooler hooked up and use the external one AFTER the radiator unit. The radiator unit is more efficient than an external unit.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: White Bear, Mn
Especially if you have a aftermarket converter! I run mine currently through my aftermarket Superior radiator, and then through a stock GM Silverado trans cooler. Even with my Yank SS3600 my fluid never gets over 195* even in the summer, when its 100* outside. If you have ever looked at the Silverado cooler, its a little bitty thing, but it was free, and stock lines came with it, so it went right on.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: White Bear, Mn
Especially if you have a aftermarket converter! I run mine currently through my aftermarket Superior radiator, and then through a stock GM Silverado trans cooler. Even with my Yank SS3600 my fluid never gets over 195* even in the summer, when its 100* outside. If you have ever looked at the Silverado cooler, its a little bitty thing, but it was free, and stock lines came with it, so it went right on.
195 degrees for a tranny is not exactly cool.
I drove around today on a 95 degree day in 3rd (4400 stall unlocked) and the hottest my tranny temps got were 163 degrees.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: PNW
Transmissions are designed to work properly when they’re at running temperature, that’s the whole point of using the coolant to regulate their temperature. If you’re not racing the car, the stock system is exactly what you should be using because it keeps it nice and warm for when you’re just putting around.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Central Cal.
Transmissions are designed to work properly when they’re at running temperature, that’s the whole point of using the coolant to regulate their temperature. If you’re not racing the car, the stock system is exactly what you should be using because it keeps it nice and warm for when you’re just putting around.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
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From: White Bear, Mn
Transmissions are designed to work properly when they’re at running temperature, that’s the whole point of using the coolant to regulate their temperature. If you’re not racing the car, the stock system is exactly what you should be using because it keeps it nice and warm for when you’re just putting around.
Imo around 165 degrees cruising around is perfect.
190 degrees before you start bashing on it your temps will exceed 230 degrees which is to high
Hey Slogo,
Do you have a link to the type of fittings I would need to fit into the 4L60E that would allow me to use a regular flare for a 3/8" brake line? Also, according to Griffin website, the fitting on the Radiator are 1/4" NPT. I'm not sure what type of fitting I would have to connect to these in order to run a standard parts store 3/8" line and use be able to use the standard flaring tool I would rent from the parts house. I don't own any other flaring tools so all the lines I'm going to make will have to be done with the rent-a-tool.
Thanks,
Brandon
Do you have a link to the type of fittings I would need to fit into the 4L60E that would allow me to use a regular flare for a 3/8" brake line? Also, according to Griffin website, the fitting on the Radiator are 1/4" NPT. I'm not sure what type of fitting I would have to connect to these in order to run a standard parts store 3/8" line and use be able to use the standard flaring tool I would rent from the parts house. I don't own any other flaring tools so all the lines I'm going to make will have to be done with the rent-a-tool.
Thanks,
Brandon
Well, this thread has kind of gone off the rails, but to the OP, if you are going to hard line the lines, and don't own a decently good quality flaring tool, then do as Gofastwclass said, get a roll of Nicop line, you will thank me. The standard steel line the auto parts stores sell will work fine, but can be a bear to flare, especially with a subpar flaring tool, which is what the free rental you get will be. I always hard line trans lines, I feel they are just better and easier to keep from touching things they aren't supposed to touch, although it is harder to bend them and get them to look nice. As for the fittings, I just go to the junk yard and pull them out of an older transmission, but if you have your original, just take them out of that, then remove the quick connects on your 4l60e and install them, they will thread right in no problem.
This is what I use. Auto parts stores can probably order it but will probably cost more. Another benefit ids you can bend it by hand a lot easier than the steel lines, and if you bend it in the wrong place, can usually un-bend it enough to be able to reuse it, which is difficult at best with steel line.
