Opinions on dual bussed fusebox for standalone harness
#1
Opinions on dual bussed fusebox for standalone harness
I ordered a bussman fusebox with dual busses and 20 fuses per side. My plan was to have one side as 12 volt constant battery power and the other side be 12 volt ignition/start/run powered. Now that I've got my wiring figured out more I have found I only have 2 wires that will be 12 volt constant battery power (maybe 3). Because I'm individually wiring a lot of my wires instead of combining them, I have almost 20 fuses for 12 volt ignition/run/start.
My question is, since I only have 2 wires that will be on the 12 volt constant buss, should I reconsider this. Should I divide the two buses up by Ignition/run and Ignition/start, that way when I go to crank the engine all the accessories aren't drawing power during the starter engagement?
Thanks,
Brandon
My question is, since I only have 2 wires that will be on the 12 volt constant buss, should I reconsider this. Should I divide the two buses up by Ignition/run and Ignition/start, that way when I go to crank the engine all the accessories aren't drawing power during the starter engagement?
Thanks,
Brandon
#3
Brandon, you can also wire all of your relays for electric fuel pump, fans, and other items to the constant 12V+ side as those items will still need a signal from the PCM in order for them to actuate. With the key off, the only item the PCM will actuate might be the cooling fans if you have it programmed to run after key off. Like you, I have a fuse box split in half, between constant 12V+, and ignition switched 12V+. My fuse box only has 12 fuses total, and I'm 6 on one side, 5 on the other.
#4
Thanks buggy. I hadn't thought of it that way; That makes a lot of sense. I'll stick with the constant/ignition busses then. What size relay are you using to power your ignition switched buss? I was thinking 40 amp....?
I was concerned of having one whole buss of 20 fuses and only 2 of them used as being wasteful because I won't really have anything else that needs constant power.
I was concerned of having one whole buss of 20 fuses and only 2 of them used as being wasteful because I won't really have anything else that needs constant power.
#5
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
Which Bussman fuse box are you referring to? One that is setup for fuses only or one that is setup to also accommodate relays?
IIRC the Bussman box uses ATM fuses which are pretty small. They are definitely not appropriate for radiator cooling fans - I would use separate Maxi fuse(s) for the fan(s). ATM fuses will eventually blow due to the high inrush currents used by fans. The fuel pump might be okay to run with an ATM fuse and of course you can do as suggested above for any other 12V constant supplies you need.
IIRC the Bussman box uses ATM fuses which are pretty small. They are definitely not appropriate for radiator cooling fans - I would use separate Maxi fuse(s) for the fan(s). ATM fuses will eventually blow due to the high inrush currents used by fans. The fuel pump might be okay to run with an ATM fuse and of course you can do as suggested above for any other 12V constant supplies you need.
#6
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Which Bussman fuse box are you referring to? One that is setup for fuses only or one that is setup to also accommodate relays?
IIRC the Bussman box uses ATM fuses which are pretty small. They are definitely not appropriate for radiator cooling fans - I would use separate Maxi fuse(s) for the fan(s). ATM fuses will eventually blow due to the high inrush currents used by fans. The fuel pump might be okay to run with an ATM fuse and of course you can do as suggested above for any other 12V constant supplies you need.
IIRC the Bussman box uses ATM fuses which are pretty small. They are definitely not appropriate for radiator cooling fans - I would use separate Maxi fuse(s) for the fan(s). ATM fuses will eventually blow due to the high inrush currents used by fans. The fuel pump might be okay to run with an ATM fuse and of course you can do as suggested above for any other 12V constant supplies you need.
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
http://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/auto...lade_fuses.pdf
.http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/au..._datasheet.pdf
That is measuring a simple continuous current application while the momentary inrush current situation puts a different kind of load on the fuse. Every time the fan starts there will be some number of miliseconds where it's drawing a ton of current and each time it eats away at that rating until finally the fuse finally blows. Here is a video demonstrating just how high the inrush current can be for a fan. This is a Taurus fan and you can see it spikes well above 100amp momentarily before settling back down to around 30amp.
If there was no difference between mini and maxi fuses that have the same continuous current rating, there would be no need to have these different form factors. Alas if you look under the hood of a OEM car today you will see difference form factor fuses used for different applications. Case in point the '00-'02 Camaros use maxi fuses for the fans:
A lot of OEMs uses fuseable links instead of fuses for fans to handle the inrush currents.