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Overheating LQ9

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Old Oct 3, 2018 | 10:17 PM
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Default Overheating LQ9

I have a 2005 LQ9 in my 59 Studebaker Hawk. the engine has a Vintage Air Front Runner system with new water pump and thermostat and cross flow radiator. The top of the radiator is just even with the steam tube on the engine. Problem is the water pump is not circulating coolant, heater hoses are not getting hot nor is the steam tube at radiator. I have replace the thermostat and removed the water pump and checked the impeller. No miles on engine since installation. Any suggestions HELP!!!!
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Old Oct 3, 2018 | 10:33 PM
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Sometimes it's hard to get air out of the block to get it to pump, I've had decent luck by pulling off the hose going to the steam tube while the engine is running until coolant comes out. How long are you letting it run? It may take a few minutes for the thermostat to open.
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by LLLosingit
Sometimes it's hard to get air out of the block to get it to pump, I've had decent luck by pulling off the hose going to the steam tube while the engine is running until coolant comes out. How long are you letting it run? It may take a few minutes for the thermostat to open.
I've also had good luck with this...and even adding coolant through the vent tube into the block. It's a little slow, but use a small funnel and it works very well.

Andrew
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 01:08 AM
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Pull the upper hose off the radiator and fill the block through the hose. It will take forever to fill by just adding coolant to the radiator since the thermostat is in the bottom hose. Also it wont open if coolant isnt on the ack side of it.
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 09:35 AM
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I also have a vintage air, unless the heat is turned on the coolant doesn't circulate. I ended up putting a coolant bypass and that solved the overheating problem. Hope that helps.
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 97c5
I also have a vintage air, unless the heat is turned on the coolant doesn't circulate. I ended up putting a coolant bypass and that solved the overheating problem. Hope that helps.
I have heard people say the same thing, but I too have vintage air with no bypass and in the 105k miles I've put on my car, most of which is in the hot summer months, have never had a problem and the temp has never changed with the coolant circulating through the heater or not. I think if all the air is out of the system it doesn't make a noticeable difference. My guess, and it's only a guess, is when you put the bypass in, you unknowingly burped the system of an air pocket. Also, I ONLY use the old green antifreeze, Dexcool mucked up my first swap so switched it over and never had an issue with that one after that either. Just my experiences tthough.
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 10:42 AM
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Okay....
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 10:55 AM
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Couple of things I've done is drill a couple 1/8" holes in the thermostat. It let's some coolant flow before it opens. The other is as the engine gets up to temp loosen the temp sensor on the left cylinder heat until it bleeds out some coolant. Good chance you will see a burp of air as it purges the air out of the cylinder head. Be careful with hot coolant. Also don't over tighten the temp sensor. It can easily break off.
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 97c5
I also have a vintage air, unless the heat is turned on the coolant doesn't circulate. I ended up putting a coolant bypass and that solved the overheating problem. Hope that helps.
This is not true, I've ran the water pump heater outlets plugged and looped as others have and no difference in water temperature either way.
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