fusion_ta66

iTrader: (1)

So I verified that a 170 amp alternator (kw7) from a 2020 Silverado 5.3 is basically the same case dimensions as the 335-1068 AC Delco 105 amp (k68) from a 2000 Silverado. It also has the same bolt and pulley spacing as the LS alternators. This was extremely good news for me as I could not run the larger 145amp LS alternator. I still need to wire it up with a PWM controller but I don't see why it won't work.

The output stud and the harness plug are in different locations. I was able to make it work. I tried clocking out without success but not sure I was doing it correctly. The output stud comes off the side but is also removable so you can run off the back as well.

Hope this helps someone else.

Boyerrick123

I have a 2008 silverado I put a sound system in and when the alternator bumps up to 15.5 volts it sends my amps into protect so I found this thread and bought this controller and set it up exactly as described and it did nothing I wasn't able to get the charging voltage to move from 13.8 just for testing I used a USB charger for my 5 volt source I grounded to the battery and connected the pwm output from the module to the L pin on the alternator I set it to 128hz and it did nothing is there a different frequency I should try or something? I don't have an o scope but I did measure the voltage coming from the pwm module to confirm it was working properly any help would be great thank you

Panavia

The PWN generator is now on AMAZON

LSswap

Did you unplug the connector from the silverado, or did you tie into it?

???

finally getting around to installing the pwm box I bought over a year ago haha. ugh.

so I went back and looked at the ebay listing but it didn't say. is voltage neg and the ground OK to be the same? seems odd to have 2, maybe you just don't use voltage negative input?
my alt only has pwn in and freq out.

I have a bit of a different setup, it's on a c6 which has pwm into the ecm to adjust for the alt loading but no pwm output to control voltage. just turn on 12v to L terminal when running. I was going to power the unit with 12v from the ecm alt pin but when looking for wiring I saw something about output amplitude is the same as input voltage. input on this is 3-30v. so after seeing above, that 12v square wave go the alt might be bad.

so what's the best way to get 5v? I feel like hooking it to 5v ecm output could be bad if something goes wrong. the ecm 5v is probably going to some sensor you need. so is a phone charger taken apart the best way to get 5v? Will a cheap one be OK? I know some types of voltage regulators aren't good for long term use, I don't remember what it's called thou. used to be bad in the rc hobby, running the receivers off 5v the board would get super hot and try to burn up. they always said it was from cheap switching or something like that.


oh. I tried one of those revx boxes that seem to be used when you swap a newer truck engine/ecm into something else but doesn't have a bcm anymore, hooks into the can bus and broadcasts a signal the ecm needs to control the alt. it didn't work for me since I still have a bcm, even thou the e36 ecm can be switched to pwm alt control in hptuners, I could never got it all to work over can bus. it just made everything angry haha. funny I could force it to output a pwm to the alt when the drop box was changed and manually turned L terminal on and voltage from the alt would change. but could never get it to turn on without a lap top or scanner hooked up.

Bill Birmingham

You don't use voltage negative. Power, ground, and 5v pwm out.

???

thank you. I totally would have burnt it up haha.

???

the 220amp one is also the same small case. I got mine off ebay for like 150$. the plastic was a bit cracked, so I sent them a Pic thinking any might send a new plastic part but they said keep it and refunded me.

I was able to clock it to fit my car. but you need to cut some of the front case fins to clear something internal wiring but it's been on the car fine for a year just running default voltage, but man does it work good. my car had the big case 140amp and it struggled horribly in the hot summers running ac max. it would give up and run off battery after a few mins at red-lights, even with the idle turned up a bit and a little smaller pulley. this 220amp with a bigger stock pulley, idled back down easily holds over a 100amps at idle.

finally getting around to adjusting the voltage up soon as I get a 12v-5v adaptor.

LSswap

The one on the right is the newer "Hairpin" design windings. The wires are square (not round like the older ones) to fit more density near the core. Also it's 6 phase instead of 3 phase for the older alternators. It's got 12 diodes instead of 6 for the older ones. Also the output voltage has less ripple than the older ones. The Hairpin alternators are more efficient and usually can produce more amps at lower RPM in a smaller size alternator.

???

Yes.. the 220amp is the same just higher amps. very good for if you want to run electric power steering pump, or maybe even a electric ac compressor to clean up the front of the engine for turbo room and still have a nice to drive car.

I forget the rpo code without digging in notes, but it's 2019 and up bigger suvs and trucks. gm part number 13534128. it's basically the same as the 180amp one, just the optional upgrade. if you're going to buy the 180amp, the 220 is the same price and fit.

???

I was looking for pics of what I needed to do to clock it, but guess I didn't take any good ones. but you can see the house mods in this pic, had to cut a few ribs out to clear some internal stuff. I don't think it's an issue but some might not want to do it. you may not need to clock it on a f body anyways. I haven't had a 4th Gen in years since my 02 got stolen.

miss that car.