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Kind of chilly up in central MN today. 17 degrees. Tomorrow maybe 5 degrees and 30 mph NW winds so what else is there anything to do but build hot rods?
So an my 68 C10 build I learned a few things. LS1/T56.
Get the engine down low in the chassis. I used ECE mounts engine and trans mount. Wouldn't do that again. Maybe if I was using an auto but the ECE engine mounts make the engine angle a bit extreme with a T56. They may work well for an auto.
Also if you are into fabbing up engine mounts the LS could go back a solid 2" compared to the ECE engine mounts. May need a high hump trans cover.
This whole truck is made up of parts I've gathered over the years. Dont think the truck this rear end came out of had rear brakes for a while....
After some paint the frame is looking pretty good.
So now it can begin going back together.
I thought about doing that, but at the time I was in a big hurry so didn't mess with it. I'm thinking when its all done I will get another set of lower control arms and actually move the lower ball joint forward a bit. Not my idea, but I have seen it done before and should work out pretty well, we'll see if it actually gets done though. LOL
It involves refilling the lower cross shaft to put more caster in the front end. Look up Truckdoug's thread Pearl, the inexpensive square body build, he shows it in detail.
how much does it run you to have a frame media blasted like that?
working on this g body...they sprang for the dealer undercoat ....ugh its like someone sprayed hot tar on everything they could see from underneath ...so gross
On my TJ LS project which is a full frame it cost $300 for the sand blasting. Local sand blasting shop is time and material. Because I wasn't in a big hurry it was fill in work and they did it when the humidity was low. Having said that I waited about a week. And the cool part was that they loaded it on a fork lift and took it over to the powder coat shop. No flash rust.
Powder coat loves a sand blasted surface. If you are going that route knock off the sharp edges on the frame. Powder fails when it cracks and allows moisture in.
It involves refilling the lower cross shaft to put more caster in the front end. Look up Truckdoug's thread Pearl, the inexpensive square body build, he shows it in detail.
I know because I've been there, his garage is about the size of a large shoe box. The term 10 pounds of stuff in a 5 pound box is a good description. Ironically we both have about the same space laid out differently... and it sucks to work in - but it gets done with determination.
Ls1nova71,
what size garage do you work in at home? What spray guns do you use, primer and color? Oh yeah, Clear coat and what size tips too?
You make doing all these bad *** swap projects look so easy. You knock them out so effortlessly.
Thanks,
Jim
Yeah, Bry's right, it's small. It's a detached 2 car, probably 20x24 or so, it's better than nothing but definitely could use to be bigger. The paint guns I use are really old DeVilbiss guns, but I do have a couple of cheap Harbor Freight gravity feed guns that work surprisingly well for about one vehicle.
I used to work with a guy who used HF guns exclusively and got decent results. A bit more orange peel than I prefer and nothing show quality but no major defects either. His work was actually very motivating when you looked at the results and space he had to work in.
If you see one of ls1nova71's cars up close and in person you wouldn't think it was painted (or even built) in a garage at a house.
Nova nice build . I’ve seen some of your work especially that in cab tank baffle mod. Your work is top notch. Bought a cruise lever from you years ago still works great knock on wood LOL. Is this build on the 67-72 thread. Going to keep an eye on this.
Since I started this build in the spring, by the time I got to putting the frame together it was warming up. I had these painted trailing arms sitting on my deck for an hour or so before I went to get them and damn near burned myself! I miss summer....
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