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Heater bypassed, water pump ports hooked together with hose.
The header tank is now an overflow tank, with the overflow hose from the radiator going into the bottom of it.
No difference that I can see. Temps still go up and up with the ac on
If the engine temp is rising 200-215-230-250*F coolant reading in the head,
but the radiator is showing 150-170*F or less
It means water pump is not pushing water into engine(and out of engine afterwards). It must be recycling at the thermostat. This symptom is caused by running the LS engine without a thermostat (or having one that does not seal)
There are two kinds of thermostat I've seen that they sell for 5.3L engines. If you use the wrong design the above will happen.
I'll get it back in and check the readings again with the IR gun
I guess I've only seen the one thermostat, the one that is attached to the lower radiator hose neck at the pump and not just a t/stat on its own.,.....
Ive done quite a few swaps , never had an overheating problem . I can only tell you what I would do after reading this . 1 put a stock water pump on , 2 fill the radiator from the top radiator hose , thats how I fill um , you must use the steam vents , hook to a barb taped into the top of the water pump , or the heater hose is how I have done mine . make sure the fan/fans are blowing air towards the engine . I always put them in the "puller" position , If that fails , flush your system , if they sit for awhile they crud up inside , way worst than any small or big block .
Thank you
My front steam ports go to the upper rad hose
I am actually looking at the water pump as we speak!
The Taurus fan is behind the radiator, pulling air. Has the shroud also.
I'm going to see what truck pulley pumps I have available that will fit, and look into swapping out the PRW POS pump
Martin
Originally Posted by ijimmy
Ive done quite a few swaps , never had an overheating problem . I can only tell you what I would do after reading this . 1 put a stock water pump on , 2 fill the radiator from the top radiator hose , thats how I fill um , you must use the steam vents , hook to a barb taped into the top of the water pump , or the heater hose is how I have done mine . make sure the fan/fans are blowing air towards the engine . I always put them in the "puller" position , If that fails , flush your system , if they sit for awhile they crud up inside , way worst than any small or big block .
Looks like a car water pump and spacers are in my future.
I need the front facing output with the LS6 intake I have installed for hood clearance, but have the truck accessory drive.
So if I get the spacers, I can run an off the shelf water pump, instead of this PRW one.
Suggestions for pumps? From my reading I need the 3/4" spacers?
Here is the front of the motor with the steam line.
Going to get rid of the POS PRW water pump and get a LS1 one, with the 3/4" spacers. The spacers have the hookup for the steam line, so will just run a hose from the pump to the radiator.
[QUOTE=leftlanetruckin;20095241]
A restrictor may be needed on the thermostat side, so the coolant stays in the rad longer. Griffin suggested that after sending them some readings
[/QUOTE]
Dang. Just caught that. Thought they were a reputable company. Maybe you misinterpreted? Maybe they were talking about blocking the thermostat bypass?
Do yourself a favor and delete any posts mentioning steam vents. The amount of bandwidth wasted talking about those silly things has to be astronomical.
Not sure what your problem is, probably the WP like you think, but whatever you do fill that great big gaping hole in the top of your fan shroud so it pulls air through the radiator and not through that gap.
Not sure what your problem is, probably the WP like you think, but whatever you do fill that great big gaping hole in the top of your fan shroud so it pulls air through the radiator and not through that gap.
I have a build thread and posted a picture of my accessory drive system, quickly someone sent me a message that I was turning the water pump backwards !!!! Your engine idles cool no load, heats up at 2500 rpm no load ?? That's telling me no flow I'm not there so looking at your water pump is what I would do. I always OVER build my cooling systems large radiators big alternators and insane fans but no load over heating is just odd. When I was a kid I had a 1966 convertible, Corvair had a mid-engine SBC. This car could boil 30 gallons of water just sitting in my driveway I had a huge radiator 3 cooling fans and a 37 amp alternator , the fans spun but didn't pull any real air. I didn't have a clew !!!! Just keep pushing you'll get it !!!!!
Thank guys
Just got back home yesterday
I installed the Corvette water pump and spacers.
Same result
I can pressurize the cooling system with no leaks, so HG is doubtful, not to mention newish motor.
I've second guessed the water pump rotation myself a hundred times. But every time I look it looks right.Right now its reverse rotation, but here is a picture of the belt. Please let it be that simple! I wish....
At this point if you can't tell just by inspection that water is flowing into the radiator properly,
I would recommend the freeze plug trick just to test that you are getting coolant flow through the block
With the bypass blocked, coolant forced into the block with no regard for thermostat. Then you can tell if the fans/radiator are doing their job by temp gauge/heat gun.
I remember awhile ago I had a SBC 406... would do same as yours. Kept finding clean bright green antifreeze in the engine. I ended up selling entire motor, didn’t know had to tape the head studs. Antifreeze was just pushing up into valve covers.
Not saying that’s your problem. This entire thing just seems like air in system somehow.
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