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Just picked up a 70 nova with a 6.0 swap started. He says it's a 6.0 truck engine, has iron block.
He's bolted up a turbo 350 and I'm not thrilled with the look of it. I've got a T56 and I'd like to use it. Did some searching and can't really find an answer to my question.
Will a clutch set up and flywheel from a 2000 LS1Camaro work on the 6.0?
If it's a typical LS in regards to the crank length I've had good luck with a LS7 clutch and fly wheel. 2002 LS1 Camaro clutch slave and master. Make sure you use thread locker on the fly wheel bolts so they don't leak oil. If the engine has a fair amount of miles I would replace the crank seal. A Tick speed bleeder makes bleeding the clutch slave a piece of cake.
I'm hoping to get the engine out this weekend and try and figure out what the crank length is. Also look at the engine numbers. Right now there is no way to see the numbers, the head is too close to the firewall. I've also got to figure out why the header won't fit. The steering box doesn't even come lose to fitting with the headers in. Yet I've seen other with the same headers that fit perfectly. I'm pulling the sub frame to make it easier to work and have it sandblasted.
I'm a little confused on how to measure the crank length after reading the thread that was linked to. But when I get it out it may be easier to understand when I'm directly looking at it.
I'm hoping to get the engine out this weekend and try and figure out what the crank length is.
I'm a little confused on how to measure the crank length after reading the thread that was linked to. But when I get it out it may be easier to understand when I'm directly looking at it.
That thread was linked to, because it has pictures that still work. lol.
If you can cut 0.400" off the crank and still have the rear main seal work, it's a long crank.
If 0.400" cut off the crank would cause oil to come out, you've got a short crank.
Not sure what master cyl set up you are using but you will also likely need a clutch pedal stop. I made an adjustable one by welding a tab/bolt/jamb nut to pedal hanger/assembly. pics attached.
At this point in time I dont have a clutch pedal at all. 70 nova, automatic car. I was considering buying a hydraulic clutch pedal setup but they are about $300. If I had a stock pedal I might be able to make something up.
I have my own machine shop at home complete with a 4 axis cnc mill. I'm the one that does the T56 cable speedometer drive conversions.
I'll look around for a stock clutch pedal and see if I can make something up. But I have to balance my time with my day job, customers work and my toys. I may just have to bite the bullet and buy the McLeod setup.
Oh Cool! You've got the knowledge/tools to set up what you need. Your current pedal assembly should be fine just order up a repro clutch pedal. The Mcleod item is an adapter that works on the stock clutch pedal. I chose another route (tilton master/DSE plate/adapter) which is why I chose to make my own pedal stop. Best of luck with your project and good to know you're the one who does that cable set up. I might have gone through you years ago when i had mine done, lol...
I just remembered I have a full set of pedals and hydraulics from a 95 Camaro.
Just might see if I can adapt it to the nova.
Those might not be ideal.
I've used 84-02 F pedals in G-bodies. I've always found the support brace that goes from the pedal hanger to the 2 master cylinder bolts lines up nicely where the master cylinder belongs. Make it like stock and it will work like stock.
And I think the aftermarket bracket that sandwiches between the booster and firewall provides a mounting point for an 84-02 F master cylinder. And is available for your '70 X-body. You just want to have the same travel of the pedal stud as a 93-02 had. So you've got a perfect reference, even if the pedal isn't a good fit.
Header and steering box clearance.
Read thru this on 1st gen Camaro engine mounts, frame stands, 3 different types, should apply to nova as well. Im assuming the LS swap uses typical swap plates on stock frame stands and stock or aftermarket engine mounts.
Thank you for that. I'm going to try and work on the mounts this weekend.
I've found a work around on my header clearance problem. The collector was pointing directly at my oil filter and oil cooler block off plate.
I've cut the flange off the drivers side header and going to have it welded back and an angle. It won't take much of an angle to clear, but I'd like some air gap between my exhaust and filter. I found a guy that builds boats and he will weld both the headers up for $80. He is one of the few around here that will take on a small stainless job.
When I called Speed Engineering they told me that the oil pan they sell moves the filter in and would clear the headers. They have the dimensions of the pan on their site and it matches the Holley pan I have exactly. So I called them on it. He said well then use the truck oil pan and that they had never checked fit of their oil pan to the headers they make. The truck oil pan as far as I can tell hangs down much lower. I can't have the pan hanging down below the frame.
My clutch came in today. When I get the motor out I'll check it for fit .
Well I cut the flange off the headers and now the collector clears the oil filter. I just need to get the flanges welded back on.
My clutch from a camaro came in and everything looks like it will fit perfectly. I also picked up a bell housing and found a way to convert my T56 LT style front plate to an LS style. And I need to modify the tail housing for cable drive, The ford 9" housing came in and am going to try and get the brakes fitted on it and see if I can work out e brake cables for it.
I'm on vacation for the next 2 weeks and tomorrow I'm going to pull the front sub frame and get it sand blasted and painted. I also need to cut the floor pan for the T56 shifter and figure a way to reinforce the floor.
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Clutch setup for 2000 6.0 
