Have been working on my truck for almost a year, so far have gotten almost all the rust holes patched. Still need to replace driver side door bottom, lower outer skin and around the turn signal on the hood along with a dent in the hood.



On the body I have replaced or patched:

Inner/Outer rockers on both sides
Floor pan on both sides
Lower door pillars on both sides
Drip rails
Inner and Outer roof above windshield
Inside bed lip where it mounts to floor
New wheel tubs

Suspension/Steering: All new front steering and suspension from a 73-87 C10

Cross-member
Tie rods Inner/Outer
Pit-man and Idler
Power steering box
New upper and lower control arms
Ball joints upper/lower
New 2.5" drop spindles and wheel bearings inner/outer
5" drop coils in rear with new adjustable pan hard bar
C-Notch installed

Power Brakes:

All new hard-lines front to back
New rubber lines front/back
New rotors/pads/shoes/drums and hardware
New power booster/master cylinder and prop valve for disc/drum

For the engine I have an 03 L59

Put all new seals/gaskets in motor so far.

Currently have complete engine, a psi harness engine harness Har-1030, psi trans cross member, and speed engineering headers and plug wires. Having my rear end rebuilt and going to the newer 30 spline axles with posi carrier, hoping the axles I have from a 66 are in good enough shape to re-use they have some light pitting on them.

 

On the 30 spline axles are you going to reuse your old ones or buy new? On my 68 I went with a 30 spline posi and ordered new axles from Moser with the bolt pattern drilled to match my front wheels.
Good luck with your project.

 

I got some given to me that I am going to try to use, they have a small pit where the bearing goes and where the seal was. If the guy rebuilding my rear end recommends not using them I will order new ones from summit. Want factory 6 lug and they were one of the only ones I could fine, think they are $150 each.

 

It's been years but back in the day they made "bearing saver" replacement bearings that move the bearing and seal so it rides on a different spot on the axles. Don't know if they still make them.

 

I think they also make or made sleeves that covered worn seal grooves.

 

Yeah they still have them, going to see what he recommends I have never dealt with swapping axles or rebuilding a rear end. From what my buddy says he is really good at rebuilding them and isn't real expensive, he has had 3 done by him.

Told me all new bearings/seals and stuff would be around 150 and labor is 250 out of the truck. Ring gear and pinion gear both look good so hoping to re-use them both.

 

A lot of work since I last put anything on here. Rear end completed only thing I re-used was the posi carrier, has all new bearings, seals, axles, ring, pinion and yoke. Got the motor in with a 4l60e I bought, said it shifts fine....cheap enough to use as a core if not.

Got my No limit fuel tank installed and started on fuel line. Front end is together so I could see it mostly together. Also got my wheels and tires on. Still need a driveshaft, radiator, battery and to install the engine harness to start it and hear it run.

 

It has been several months since I last posted anything.



Ordered and installed new Champion radiator, ford thunderbird electric fan, brand new drive shaft installed, battery is in and engine is now running, Idles and revs really well.

New Ididit column came in for the truck, waiting on intermediate shaft, U Joints and shift linkage now along with the Dakota digital gauges I ordered. Should only have a week or two left to get those, been a long 3 months wait for them, column took just under 3 months to arrive.

Transmission was a bust, guessing the pump is destroyed as it will not spin wheels in any fwd or reverse gear and does not cycle fluid at all. Will have to get it rebuilt this fall so I can move th truck around under its own power finally. Then I will need windshield, back glass, install the seats/carpet and put the doors together. Install all the body panels back on the truck and should be able to take it on its first maiden voyage.

Video i made awhile back of it running.

 

Congrats on getting it running. Looks like it will be a fun truck. GlAd to see it’s a big back window too

 

Has been a very long time since I last posted an update.

Truck has been on the road since Oct 23 when I had a new transmission built and installed.

Painted truck with some cheap gloss white, didnt like it so I da sanded it down to matte.

Then sanded all the original panels back to mostly original color. Although only hood, roof and tailgate are original now.

Slapped some seafoam blue on bare metal spots the da ate down to.

Vintage air, stereo, exhaust, interior all that stuff has been finished.

I'll add some pictures of it over the last few months in a little while.

Definitely a driver, handles really well and good power. Not everyone cup of tea on the paint with dents and bondo and stuff but I like it and don't worry about scratches or anymore dings on it. I think the skull will be taken off when I pull that cover for the antenna, it pops out more than the paint lol.

Just wiped on some Flood penetrol for the shine, but its held up well since I put it on last month.

 

Which length speed engineering headers did you go with? Your trucks lowered , are you running the long tubes or the shorter ones?

 

Looks good to me!!!

 

I love it. My 67 is for having fun driving with no worries about dings, scratches or chips too.

 

I really dig it. Classic Chevy looks with modern LS power. Win-Win in my book.

 

Another long time update.

Pulled engine march 3rd and did a few upgrades to my 5.3L.

First time every doing this to an engine, wasn't near as hard as I was expecting. Just time consuming, saved around 3-4k over the quote I got to have it done at a shop though.

Parts list:

Btr truck norris cam
.625 beehive springs
BTR TK02 rocker trunion upgrade
Chromoly .080 push rods
New Delphi LS7 lifters/trays
ARP head bolts
LS2 timing chain, new gears, melling timing chain damper bracket
New oil pump
Cleaned heads and lapped valves
Flex fuel sensor installed and wired into ecm
Alan grove 142r ac bracket
Replaced front and rear main seals along with new oil barbell
New HD flexplate
New knock sensors and harness
New valve covers
New Harmonic balancer

Reason I took off the Holley ac bracket is VERY early preparation to put ansingle turbo in that spot one day. And to get the ac compressor back in stock location on its own belt.

I also moved the pcm to passenger side on floor up under dash. That took about 3 days to clean up wiring and hide alot of wire loom. Now my fuse box for the body is in stock location since ecm has been moved from that spot.

Have the engine back togethor minus intake and valve covers.

I ordered the revised stock valve covers, the plastic baffle does not fit between rocker arms with the trunion kit.

Priced having heads done at machine shop but just cleaning and lapping valves was $550 and up everywhere I called.

Going to try to get it back in my truck tomorrow and get it bolted in and everything wired/hooked back up.

Hoping I can do a test start one day this week. If it will idle I can pull vacuum and charge ac.

Then off for a street tune and will have a dyno tune done as well.

 

And its alive, primed oil pump and had 40psi on start. Fired right up and idles ok.

Pulled it out of garage and turned truck around so I could back it in. It did stall when i let off gas pedal, the rpm drops and it died twice.

Figure the street tune will take care of this issue and will also have a dyno tune done.

I got everything reinstalled except for ac hoses, will work on that this weekend. Still have to crimp new fittings on new hoses, pull vacuum and charge it.

 

I got the street tune done and its running amazing now.

Had Charles Barber out of SC do the original base tune in 21' and he took care of my street tune, next is dyno.

He activated E85 in ecm for me when doing street tune and it was reading fine on his pc, could not get my odb2 reader to pick it up.

First custom pid I tried was:
220052
(A/255)*100
Units: %

Second one I found after digging online works perfectly.

2212F3
A/2.55
Units %
Header: Auto

I searched for a few days and trued the first formula several different ways and never got anything.

Second formula read right away and is just about a perfect reading.

13 gallons of gas, 6 gallons of E85 and reading is 34.9%.

Figured this may help someone needing a pid for ethanol content who is running the sensor and has it activated.

Ac plumbed and working great, really liking the Alan Grove low mount. I did have to trim frame to get bottom hose onto compressor fitting. Cut about 1.5" x 3" and have plenty of space now.

New 02 sensors, had a bad heater on the drivers side. Just need an exhaust flange gasket and it should be back 100%.

This cam sounds really aggressive at cold idle and is choppy when warm still. Really notice the power increase above 2500rpm and with the ethanol it was noticeable at just 35% content.

The trailblazer converter does awesome with it no pulling while stopped and no issue with vacuum. Was worried about those two items when I started the install and soo glad ended up being a non issue.

 

Nice build,, I have 64 c10.......you never answered the guys question on the headers and I don't think u mentioned which engine mounts you used ??