G Atsma

Andrew- With the Volt brushless fans with included controller, what else is needed wiring-wise (or additional components) to use them in a swap or any stand-alone situation?
I hope I'm not showing TOO much ignorance here... lol

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

The fans need power and ground and a PWM- signal that is user programmable based on coolant temperature. The Holley EFI systems can do this and much more.

Andrew

G Atsma

Gotcha. So it really is not feasible in a standalone sense. It still needs an outside programable PWM signal and temp signal source.
Thank you!

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

To Andrew’s and Will’s point - I’ve been using PWM controlled cooling fans since 2003 (albeit with a stand alone controller). It’s the only way to go. When relays crank big amp fans on/off, the resulting transient voltage spikes/drops are hard on the charging and electrical systems. I avoid them if I can. PWM starter anyone? 🤪

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Yeah I'm digging the fan/pwm setup, thinking I'll do that next winter.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

The weather was really nice this weekend, so I decided to mess around with the engine a little bit. Popped the valve covers off just to do a visual inspection. Everything looked really good.







Pulled the spark plugs and they all look like this. Also pretty good.



The counter sunk bolts that hold the engine mount adapter plates to the engine are going to be a problem. I got one loose, but the rest are stuck pretty good. I broke one 3/8" drive 6mm allen wrench in the process.

I am soaking them with some PB Blaster, so I hope that does the trick. If not, might have to add some heat.



Andrew

Jimbo1367

I wonder how many people forget to anti-seize them. I guess I’m lucky, I got a iron block. I never even thought about it before either.

Hopefully you can get them out

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

I think the biggest challenge there is that it's a relatively small Allen head for that size fastener.

Jimbo1367

Now that I think of it, I did have the exact same problem with my iron block. I remember having to grind a slot in the head to chisel it loose. I am hoping I had the common sense to lightly anti seize it.

Andrew,
what springs and retainers are those?

thanks,
Jim

TrendSetter

ive had luck using a small flat ended punch to strike the head around the face perimeter. sometimes that is just enough to be able to break it loose with a hex key. propane also helps.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I don't recall the springs, but looking back through my last build thread it looks like the are Patriot Gold dual valve springs with titanium retainers.

I actually always use anti-seize when using steel bolts in aluminum. I think the cone of the flat head bolt has a little rust where it touches the adapter plate. Using a punch is a great idea. I will try that next.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a product to clean the bare aluminum block?

Andrew

will69camaro

iTrader: (19)

I was recommended Aluminum brightener acid for this. Its pretty toxic/corrosive so wear appropriate PPE. Think you can buy it diluted and in spray bottles already on Amazon.

William

Jimbo1367

Andrew,
EAGLE MAG CLEANER 1. Something like that. Clint(Bandit) I believed talked about this in his thread. Back when I used it, There was two versions of this mag cleaner. One was safe and one was caustic. You have to read the labels to see which one you’re looking at.

It works great cleaning old aluminum parts to look new. It’s basically what Will is saying

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

I used some Aluminum Bright from NAPA on my timing cover and it did a great job of brightening it up. It is an acid so I wouldn't let it sit on there too long.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the suggestions, Gentlemen.

Andrew

LSswap

Andrew, what are the PWM signal requirements for the VOLT fans?

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I have yet to figure it out. I'm first going to try the C7 fan settings. 100hz, 88% is full speed and 7% is off.

HILROD

If you haven't gotten those bolts out yet, take a small cutting wheel and cut a slot in the head. They will either come out with a flatblade, or a chisel hit or two.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Still haven't gotten the bolts out, but haven't really tried. Today was super busy with having to juggle four tuning customers, but I did did get a few more parts.

I have mentioned it before, but part of the goal is to get the AC system fully functioning. It is an older VA Super Gen II system, but I see no reason why it can't work as it should. Another thing that I want to do is fully integrate the AC system with the Holley ECU. Today I received some of the parts to do that.

This is a new drier that I got from BP Automotive. What makes it unique is that it has both a binary switch for the compressor and it has a GM pressure sensor.





The binary switch will work as a safety for the compressor. The AC pressure switch will be an input to the Terminator X and will allow me to integrate AC as part of the cooling fan control.



I also picked up these pressure sensor connectors from EFI Connection. These connectors are pretty standard for GM and aftermarket 5v pressure transducers. What makes these a little unique is the little lip that is molded at the end of the connector. I plan to modify a lot of the Holley EFI harness and part of the modification will be sealing off the sections of harness for the pressure sensors. These sections of harness will be encapsulated in Raychem Dr25 heat shrink tubing and the connectors will have heat shrink boots on them.





Andrew

NCDEERE

iTrader: (1)

For the stuck bolts use a small rechargeable impact turned down or an impact drill driver.
The shock will likely break them loose. I do it all the time on stainless bolts stuck in small outboard motors.