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The AlphaTig and Primeweld both have good reviews, I've been eyeing the Primeweld personally. I also found that a local tech college offered self-paced time in the welding department where you could get instructions or assistance from the instructors and use their equipment/materials. I felt that it was a huge step from just trying to learn on your own at home.
I purchased the Primeweld 225x. I'm super excited to try it out.
I used a Lokar Universal transmission dipstick and it kinda depends on what your pan is for oil but I'm using the donor vehicle dipstick. Six quarts using the Holley A-body 302-2 oil pan gets it to the top of the hash marks. Five quarts would also probably put it in the middle of the stick hash marks.
Which transmission for you? There is a very particular dipstick check procedure for a 4L60E. Check it hot after a thirty minute cool down rest. After 30 minutes, restart the engine and with the brake applied, go through each shifter detent from park to the low detents, pausing at each one briefly. Return to Park and with the engine still running, check the fluid level.
Full for my 4L60E with the stock pan is two thirds up the stick hash marks.
I used a Lokar Universal transmission dipstick and it kinda depends on what your pan is for oil but I'm using the donor vehicle dipstick. Six quarts using the Holley A-body 302-2 oil pan gets it to the top of the hash marks. Five quarts would also probably put it in the middle of the stick hash marks.
Which transmission for you? There is a very particular dipstick check procedure for a 4L60E. Check it hot after a thirty minute cool down rest. After 30 minutes, restart the engine and with the brake applied, go through each shifter detent from park to the low detents, pausing at each one briefly. Return to Park and with the engine still running, check the fluid level.
Full for my 4L60E with the stock pan is two thirds up the stick hash marks.
Rick
I have a 4l80e. After going through my block, the oil passage for the dipstick is sealed. I'm using a Holley 302-3 pan.
I'm happy with the progress I'm making. I was able to get to do some fittings with the radiator in and noticed the headers needed to be cut. Super excited have my PST driveshaft arrive today.
That's the one. Unless you have a different recommendation. I'm also still stuck on if I want to run a vintage air vs restomod air unit. I would like to install the condenser to test fit the other items which include the intercooler.
That's the one. Unless you have a different recommendation. I'm also still stuck on if I want to run a vintage air vs restomod air unit. I would like to install the condenser to test fit the other items which include the intercooler.
I used the adapters from VA, but my point is that you might want to have, whichever adapter you are using, installed before you commit to the turbo hot side plumbing.
I used the adapters from VA, but my point is that you might want to have, whichever adapter you are using, installed before you commit to the turbo hot side plumbing.
Andrew
Gotcha. I didn't have a V8 today. I will get it on order today. That makes perfect sense.
Gotcha. I didn't have a V8 today. I will get it on order today. That makes perfect sense.
I would also figure out which fans you are going to use and get them installed. What seems like a large gap between the accessories and the radiator is going to get very tight, very quickly.
I highly recommend using the Chevy Volt fans. I am using them on my GTO and they fit the radiator core perfectly.
You should also figure out what you are doing for the upper radiator hose, as that will impact turbo placement.
I just had another thought. You might want to consider the stainless, cast manifolds that Armaggedon turbo is selling. If you can make them work, your life will get a lot easier.
I would also figure out which fans you are going to use and get them installed. What seems like a large gap between the accessories and the radiator is going to get very tight, very quickly.
I highly recommend using the Chevy Volt fans. I am using them on my GTO and they fit the radiator core perfectly.
You should also figure out what you are doing for the upper radiator hose, as that will impact turbo placement.
I just had another thought. You might want to consider the stainless, cast manifolds that Armaggedon turbo is selling. If you can make them work, your life will get a lot easier.
Andrew
For fans I have the Ford Windstar electric fans. I will put them and check the fittings. I'm going to look into the cast manifolds from Armaggeddon.
I have to go back and see what radiator you're running. The Chevy Volt fans seem to be a popular choice as well.
@Project GatTagO I took a look at the manifolds more and I'm not seeing much information on them. The site doesn't list them with many pictures installed in a vehicle. Which is a pricey gamble I don't want to take. You know of anyone using them on a build?
@Project GatTagO I took a look at the manifolds more and I'm not seeing much information on them. The site doesn't list them with many pictures installed in a vehicle. Which is a pricey gamble I don't want to take. You know of anyone using them on a build?
I do not anyone using them, but they have a bunch of videos on their YouTube channel.
This might be a long shot, but I'm going to try flipped C5 corvette manifolds. If I mount T3/T4 flanges to these it should help a ton. Might be some pseudo Armaggedon turbo type ordeal. Any thoughts on this or experience? I also went and grabbed up a set of truck manifolds if all else fails. The test subjects.
Got the driveshaft installed finally along with some test fittings with the manifolds. The driveshaft was promptly delivered from PST and it looks beautiful. Can't wait to get it spinning. The HPI frame brace kit was in the way and needed to be removed. The Portaband cut through it like a hot knife through butter. This thing finally being connected is pure beauty for me! The manifold were mocked up but fitment was bad. The thick structure caused them not to be able to sit flush. This picture depicts them not being able to be fully bolted down. Another issue is they are blocking the spark plug holes. The solution I came up with is to cut the material where the black line is shown. I used the flange from my up and forward headers to match. After mounting I will have to naturally relocate the coils. Still on the fence on what to use to cut the material. Cut off disc, bandsaw, or a plasma cutter (hopefully the auto skills center has one). Trying to make sure I don't warp the flange. Any suggestions?
I'm almost ready for the downpipes. Both manifolds mounted up. The amount of metal I had to remove to make these things fit. I don't want to smell a used cut off disc again for a few days. They are now flush with the heads. I'm about to easily access all the spark plugs on each side. Was rubbing the steering shaft a bit still. I will heat it up and massage with a hammer.
03-04-2023 | 01:55 PM
