swizcore

I’ve read a ridiculous amount of alternator wiring threads and so many contradict each other. I think I better just lay out my specifics...

5.3LS swap in a 55 Carryall build.

Currently my alternator has the brown and gray original LS harness wires run to the L and I terminals, no wires on the P or S. And of course the large wire run from the Alt to the starter.

This build is on airride so I’m pushing two 60amp compressors which are run through relays which draw their power directly from the battery when triggered.

So, what is the best solution to run my alternator wiring so it is kicking in assist when these high draw compressors kick on?

Specifically, which of those 4 Alt terminals do I tap into with the resistor and what do I run it to since my compressor relays are wired direct to battery?

I hope I’m not confusing you.

Thanks

squarles67

Running a wire from the "S" terminal to my fuse panel made a huge difference in the way mine charged in my '55. The Sensor terminal gives the alternator the reference voltage at the panel and adjusts accordingly. Mine went from 12.5 to 13 to a much better 13.5 to 14.5

swizcore

Ok, so should I keep the two wires that currently go from the PCM to the alternator “L” and “I” terminals or does adding the 12v key hot to “S” make one of them unnecessary?

Thanks

squarles67

http://billavista.com/tech/Articles/....html#csseries

L is the warning lamp, that one is needed. You can use a resistor or a bulb. I used the Holley 197-400 plug by itself at first, it worked much better when I added the wire to the S terminal

Haggar

I also use both the S and L terminals with my LQ4.

I have:

Large Wire from stud to my homemade power distribution block on the firewall. I have my different harness fuse blocks connected to this junction point.

Sense wire also goes to this power distribution block.

Lamp wire with an inline resistor to keyed ignition source.


As mentioned, this setup monitors/senses the voltage at the point where the electronics are consuming it, and regulates accordingly.

swizcore

Ok so with my "L" terminal still currently in the stock configuration going from the Alt to the PCM, I will leave this connection in tact but also tap in a resisted wire from it to keyed ignition source and then run my S terminal to my constant 12v power distribution and be good to go? I'm assuming that my "L" terminal remaining connected to the PCM as opposed to a Lamp, will still allow me to be warned via the check engine light (or throwing a code), both of which will show in my Dakota Digital RTX gauge cluster.

swizcore

Thanks for that link, lots of info there.

squarles67

Yes there is, it's the best one I have found