Tesla Model LS4
Don't forget about a cooling system, not a lot of open area in the front of a Model S. Then there's things like mounting the front suspension components, struts, steering rack, and power steering stuff. It could get out of hand quick if you're not good with fabrication work.
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Don't forget about a cooling system, not a lot of open area in the front of a Model S. Then there's things like mounting the front suspension components, struts, steering rack, and power steering stuff. It could get out of hand quick if you're not good with fabrication work.
If it works - no need for alternator, compressor or power steering (hyd) - so just drive water pump. What are you gonna do for a fuel tank? Or has Holley developed a module that takes Lithium battery power and creates gasoline? ( 
) We're on the verge of perpetual motion.
Wait a minute -- thermodynamics is weighing in....
) We're on the verge of perpetual motion.Wait a minute -- thermodynamics is weighing in....
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If it works - no need for alternator, compressor or power steering (hyd) - so just drive water pump. What are you gonna do for a fuel tank? Or has Holley developed a module that takes Lithium battery power and creates gasoline? ( ) We're on the verge of perpetual motion.
Wait a minute -- thermodynamics is weighing in....
) We're on the verge of perpetual motion.Wait a minute -- thermodynamics is weighing in....
I'm hoping the lack of accessories will help with the weight and room a bit. Do you think I could get away with an electric coolant pump?
Yes I am concerned about temperature.
I figure I will have to install heat shields on all electronics and set fan temps low. Any suggestions?
"....set fan temps low..." That won't significantly change under hood temperatures. Use an OEM 187F t'stat on the inlet and set your fans to control around 200F-205F. Shielding for radiant heat for sensitive stuff - absolutely. And you may have to move some stuff out of the "engine compartment". Delta Current Control makes a pulse width modulated controller that will simultaneously control your electric fans and electric WP.
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"....set fan temps low..." That won't significantly change under hood temperatures. Use an OEM 187F t'stat on the inlet and set your fans to control around 200F-205F. Shielding for radiant heat for sensitive stuff - absolutely. And you may have to move some stuff out of the "engine compartment". Delta Current Control makes a pulse width modulated controller that will simultaneously control your electric fans and electric WP.
Already shared my thoughts. No way I'd use a 160F t'stat -- lots of reasons to want to have the engine up to a reasonable operating temperature. If you put the fans/water pump into motion at 140F with a 160F t'stat, the fans/pump stay on all the time the car is running (once it hits 140F) because they can't get the temp down to the set point with a 160F t'stat. You don't want to do that. If you ignore all that and go with a 160F t'stat - you're gonna see 168-170F temps at the sensor/coolant exit of the engine. Set your fans 5-7F above that temp. Where you set your pump should be guided by the control algorithms specified by whoever's controller you're using. But I'd use 187F t'stat, you'll see operating temps in the 195-197F - set your fans 7F or so above that.
Check out model 65P35 - http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm
Check out model 65P35 - http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm
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Already shared my thoughts. No way I'd use a 160F t'stat -- lots of reasons to want to have the engine up to a reasonable operating temperature. If you put the fans/water pump into motion at 140F with a 160F t'stat, the fans/pump stay on all the time the car is running (once it hits 140F) because they can't get the temp down to the set point with a 160F t'stat. You don't want to do that. If you ignore all that and go with a 160F t'stat - you're gonna see 168-170F temps at the sensor/coolant exit of the engine. Set your fans 5-7F above that temp. Where you set your pump should be guided by the control algorithms specified by whoever's controller you're using. But I'd use 187F t'stat, you'll see operating temps in the 195-197F - set your fans 7F or so above that.
Check out model 65P35 - http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm
Check out model 65P35 - http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm
Already answered in the first response about this - 1) a lower temp t’stat will not significantly alter under hood temps; 2) lots of parameters in the tune designed to work properly with the coolant running warmer than your 160F will let it. I’d add - the cooler you run it - the more heat you have to reject which impacts the size of the heat exchanger. Generally, you’d like coolant to be as warm as you can run it without overheating components or causing detonation to be a problem, you want intake (combustion) air as cold as you can get it, and oil temps in the 210-240F range. Let the engine work the way it’s supposed to. Move stuff that can’t handle temps around the engine.
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Already answered in the first response about this - 1) a lower temp t’stat will not significantly alter under hood temps; 2) lots of parameters in the tune designed to work properly with the coolant running warmer than your 160F will let it. I’d add - the cooler you run it - the more heat you have to reject which impacts the size of the heat exchanger. Generally, you’d like coolant to be as warm as you can run it without overheating components or causing detonation to be a problem, you want intake (combustion) air as cold as you can get it, and oil temps in the 210-240F range. Let the engine work the way it’s supposed to. Move stuff that can’t handle temps around the engine.
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Where it typically would go. In front of the engine. Theres plenty of room. I figure the air will pass over the engine and go under the car and out the wheel wells. But since these are normally closed up pretty well maybe I should consider venting through the hood? I'm open to suggestions.
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Yep, that's why I'm here. I like to have it thought out well before I start. When the fans are running shouldn't that reduce under hood temperatures? The more I think about this, the more I think venting through the hood at the windshield area is the way to go.
You can’t “vent” at the base of the windshield, it’s an area of high pressure. Put a vent there and you’ll force air INTO the compartment. Some mid-engined cars have fans that come on by temperature to vent the compartment. You’re going to have to move stuff that can’t manage that environment.
I think GAtsma was getting at this with his earlier question -- how are you gonna coordinate the amount of propulsion being provided by the IC engine at the front and the electric motor at the back?