64 Vette, LS newbie questions
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
64 Vette, LS newbie questions
Long story short, finally ready to start restoring my father's 64 stingray. I always planned to build a 383 sbc but after lurking these forums I'm on the fence and think an LS swap will give me the reliability to drive this car more than it's parked.
Background (less important):
My dad was an engine builder and stock car driver down here in Georgia and spent most of his time on sbc builds. He's been gone for over a decade but my uncle is still around and building/racing. I'm ready to take on this restoration project, so I thought I'd get specs together for the engine, talk it over with my uncle, and get to work. Money isn't tight, though I'm not bill gates.
Goal:
While this won't be my daily driver, I'd like to build it to be a street car and capable to drive daily with as little 'quirks' as possible. I'd like to just get in the car and start it up. I live in Georgia, so it's a warmer climate even in winter months.
When this car was in it's glory, it shook the ground when started, dipped when you hit the gas, it was a beast. I'd like to replicate that feeling while also keeping it a street car and run pump gas.
Question(s):
I know these are very green questions, so any input is appreciated.
Background (less important):
My dad was an engine builder and stock car driver down here in Georgia and spent most of his time on sbc builds. He's been gone for over a decade but my uncle is still around and building/racing. I'm ready to take on this restoration project, so I thought I'd get specs together for the engine, talk it over with my uncle, and get to work. Money isn't tight, though I'm not bill gates.
Goal:
While this won't be my daily driver, I'd like to build it to be a street car and capable to drive daily with as little 'quirks' as possible. I'd like to just get in the car and start it up. I live in Georgia, so it's a warmer climate even in winter months.
When this car was in it's glory, it shook the ground when started, dipped when you hit the gas, it was a beast. I'd like to replicate that feeling while also keeping it a street car and run pump gas.
Question(s):
- Is a 383 Turbo LS engine a viable option for a street car? Or is this ridiculous?
- If not 383 turbo LS, would you recommend a 383 LS or Turbo LS?
- Where should I get started (just spec'ing out, not committing atm)?
- Summit has a range of LS blocks (https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ype%3Achevy-ls)
- I assume the LSA (#12673476) is a good fit for boosted applications?
- Thinking out loud, I'd get an LS block, have it machined for the 383 and grab an LS stroker kit
- Summit has a range of LS blocks (https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ype%3Achevy-ls)
I know these are very green questions, so any input is appreciated.
#2
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
I’m in Dawsonville and did some driving myself as well as working with Cup teams on engine R&D in the early 90’s. Who was your dad?
Nothing wrong with the 383 turbo idea. Many, if not most will tell you that the 383 is a waste of time and money, and to simply throw a 4.8 or 5.3 at it with a turbo and make an easy 750 wheel. I say that you be you, and build whatever makes you smile.
Honestly these days, parts are hard to get. In fact, some are waiting 6-8 months for pistons. Others are waiting even longer for cranks. In my opinion…even though the engine builder in me is totally against it…a crate engine is the way to go right now, just because of availability. Your uncle might help you make this decision easier. Talk with him about the subject of parts availability vs. crate. He can give you advice there and/or a second opinion.
Either way, it doesn’t get much cooler than a 63’ Vette. You’ve certainly got an awesome starting point.
Nothing wrong with the 383 turbo idea. Many, if not most will tell you that the 383 is a waste of time and money, and to simply throw a 4.8 or 5.3 at it with a turbo and make an easy 750 wheel. I say that you be you, and build whatever makes you smile.
Honestly these days, parts are hard to get. In fact, some are waiting 6-8 months for pistons. Others are waiting even longer for cranks. In my opinion…even though the engine builder in me is totally against it…a crate engine is the way to go right now, just because of availability. Your uncle might help you make this decision easier. Talk with him about the subject of parts availability vs. crate. He can give you advice there and/or a second opinion.
Either way, it doesn’t get much cooler than a 63’ Vette. You’ve certainly got an awesome starting point.
#3
TECH Fanatic
Welcome dude! You really kind of just have to decide if you want to go turbo or not, and how crazy you want to go. There's a lot of extra plumbing and fabrication with a turbo setup, so if you have all the equipment and ability in welding and stuff, that will make it easier. If you wanted to do the full LSA build, the LSA crate engine has been discontinued, but you could piece together the parts and build the 556HP supercharged LSA, very cool. It has more or less been replaced by the 650HP LT4 which is also supercharged and is more or less the crate engine de jour.
Both of those options put you in big fun supercharged HP territory!
The old adage about building a turbo engine, is "build the best NA motor you can". You can take a 5.3, and with a cam, forged rods, pistons, and with a 75mm turbo hit 700HP. So any more cubes is just icing on the cake. Want to make 1000? Completely possible and really not that hard to do, it just costs more.
My .02 is read this forum as much as your free time will allow, watch a ton of Richard Holdner videos, and you'll start to slowly piece it all together.
I'll also say this, when I first got the bug like you just caught, I was all set on doing sort of the same thing, a 402 6.0 Turbo Build, went guns ho on learning every conceivable thing I could, build spreadsheet after spreadsheet of part numbers, pricing, all that stuff, what works with what, yadda yadda.
Then once I felt like I had my mind made up on the parts I wanted, added up the costs of all of the parts groupings "Engine, Sensors, Exhaust, Turbo parts, Cylinder Heads, Intake Manifold, plumbing, accessory drive, all the stuff I would need to make it all work, and holy **** it's a lot of money. So much money that buying a complete connect and cruise LT4 with a 10L90 Transmission from GM Performance Parts is just about the same money. A lot less headache, and I still feel great about learning so much about LS/LT swaps, and I still have a frame off restoration to do on my 95 C1500, so to get to driving it a lot faster, this is my current line of thinking.
Just another train of thought for you. Best of luck, don't be afraid to ask questions either, that's how ya learn.
Both of those options put you in big fun supercharged HP territory!
The old adage about building a turbo engine, is "build the best NA motor you can". You can take a 5.3, and with a cam, forged rods, pistons, and with a 75mm turbo hit 700HP. So any more cubes is just icing on the cake. Want to make 1000? Completely possible and really not that hard to do, it just costs more.
My .02 is read this forum as much as your free time will allow, watch a ton of Richard Holdner videos, and you'll start to slowly piece it all together.
I'll also say this, when I first got the bug like you just caught, I was all set on doing sort of the same thing, a 402 6.0 Turbo Build, went guns ho on learning every conceivable thing I could, build spreadsheet after spreadsheet of part numbers, pricing, all that stuff, what works with what, yadda yadda.
Then once I felt like I had my mind made up on the parts I wanted, added up the costs of all of the parts groupings "Engine, Sensors, Exhaust, Turbo parts, Cylinder Heads, Intake Manifold, plumbing, accessory drive, all the stuff I would need to make it all work, and holy **** it's a lot of money. So much money that buying a complete connect and cruise LT4 with a 10L90 Transmission from GM Performance Parts is just about the same money. A lot less headache, and I still feel great about learning so much about LS/LT swaps, and I still have a frame off restoration to do on my 95 C1500, so to get to driving it a lot faster, this is my current line of thinking.
Just another train of thought for you. Best of luck, don't be afraid to ask questions either, that's how ya learn.
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nopsx (03-10-2022)
#4
TECH Addict
I'd run a Sniper or similar on top of a pro small block that looks and sounds like the original, but I'm just old enough to still really care about that vintage chevy...
6 figure car stock. 5 figure car restomodded unless a name is on it.
6 figure car stock. 5 figure car restomodded unless a name is on it.
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nopsx (03-10-2022)
#5
Teching In
Thread Starter
Sorry folks, I think I double posted on accident. At the moment (and in another thread) I've been discussing an ls7 swap. Excellent advice, I'll catch up on the recommendations here. I did find a local 5.3 junkyard pull for pretty cheap, so options are all on the table.
Last edited by nopsx; 03-11-2022 at 08:06 AM.
#6
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (1)
I dropped a 400hp 6.0 LQ9 in a 68 vette. Plan was to eventually do cam, heads intake to take it to 500hp, But after driving it a year, I realized another 100hp, mostly at the top end, wouldn't be very useful on the street. You're running the same basic frame/suspension as my 68 so unless you're going to do a lot more than just an engine work, it may not be worth the effort. My suggestion, get a relatively stock 6.0, get it running, turbo or supercharge later if you want.
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nopsx (03-11-2022)
#7
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Turbos sound sexy, but eventually you will realize, like I have, they are pain in the ***.... You don't have a big engine bay, so cramming all the turbo stuff is going to suck.
If it was me, I would get a LS3 long block for $4999...pick a modest cam and matching valve springs, LS3 intake and injectors, choose whatever headers and accessories fit your chassis. This will make an easy 500HP and in a ligthweight car, would be super fun.
Andrew
If it was me, I would get a LS3 long block for $4999...pick a modest cam and matching valve springs, LS3 intake and injectors, choose whatever headers and accessories fit your chassis. This will make an easy 500HP and in a ligthweight car, would be super fun.
Andrew
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Trending Topics
#8
I will go a bit against the grain here.
I would go with a LS2 block bored and sleeved to 427 cubes. I did that in my 67 Nova. Used a Manley forged crank and rods. Diamond pistons. Medium size cam. LS3 heads. LS3 intake. 102 throttle body. Made just under 500 RWHP. Super easy to tune. Ran great. I know not huge numbers but it was hoot to drive.
Oh if you go this route this means you can put 427 emblems on the hood! LOL.
Another thing you need to keep in mind is that the Corvette rear end is not the most robust rear end. If you want build advice check over on corvetteforums.com.
Also I would convert over to disc brakes if doesn't have them already.
I would go with a LS2 block bored and sleeved to 427 cubes. I did that in my 67 Nova. Used a Manley forged crank and rods. Diamond pistons. Medium size cam. LS3 heads. LS3 intake. 102 throttle body. Made just under 500 RWHP. Super easy to tune. Ran great. I know not huge numbers but it was hoot to drive.
Oh if you go this route this means you can put 427 emblems on the hood! LOL.
Another thing you need to keep in mind is that the Corvette rear end is not the most robust rear end. If you want build advice check over on corvetteforums.com.
Also I would convert over to disc brakes if doesn't have them already.
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nopsx (03-11-2022)
#9
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
I think you have to figure out your goals for the car before you make any decision on what route to go. If it's just a cruiser and want to keep it on somewhat of a budget I'd go with a junkyard 5.3, or 6.0, put some 243/799 heads on it with a mild/medium sized cam and a LS6 intake or trail blazer SS intake if you have under hood room. With a 6.0 that should get you close to 500hp at the crank, and with a 5.3 around 450. That is if you want to retain EFI of course, you have to make that decision if you want to deal with using a factory ECU and harness or going aftermarket ECU which obviously will cost more but less headache. If you want something with more power and want to go naturally aspirated I'd be concerned about the stock IRS if you plan on beating on it (dependant of course on what trans you go with). But the most bang for your buck setup will obviously be a junkyard pullout 4.8/5.3/6.0 with a cam and a turbo if you have the fabricating skills to build your own turbo kit, and will be docile enough to daily drive it and still be easy on the drive line. Not sure if this guy is on LS1tech or not but I'm sure many have seen videos of this car: From what I remember it is a 64 corvette with a stock 5.7 LS1 pullout from an fbody and small turbo. Don't recall which trans he had but I know it's an automatic. Still on the factory IRS and small radials was able to run low 10s which is pretty damn impressive. There was another video floating around youtube that had a closer look at the car and interviewed the owner who gave a full rundown of the car, but can't seem to find it now.
edit...found the other video, here ya go
edit...found the other video, here ya go
Last edited by BFK86; 03-10-2022 at 04:57 PM.
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nopsx (03-11-2022), Project GatTagO (03-10-2022)
#10
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
I think you have to figure out your goals for the car before you make any decision on what route to go. If it's just a cruiser and want to keep it on somewhat of a budget I'd go with a junkyard 5.3, or 6.0, put some 243/799 heads on it with a mild/medium sized cam and a LS6 intake or trail blazer SS intake if you have under hood room. With a 6.0 that should get you close to 500hp at the crank, and with a 5.3 around 450. That is if you want to retain EFI of course, you have to make that decision if you want to deal with using a factory ECU and harness or going aftermarket ECU which obviously will cost more but less headache. If you want something with more power and want to go naturally aspirated I'd be concerned about the stock IRS if you plan on beating on it (dependant of course on what trans you go with). But the most bang for your buck setup will obviously be a junkyard pullout 4.8/5.3/6.0 with a cam and a turbo if you have the fabricating skills to build your own turbo kit, and will be docile enough to daily drive it and still be easy on the drive line. Not sure if this guy is on LS1tech or not but I'm sure many have seen videos of this car: From what I remember it is a 64 corvette with a stock 5.7 LS1 pullout from an fbody and small turbo. Don't recall which trans he had but I know it's an automatic. Still on the factory IRS and small radials was able to run low 10s which is pretty damn impressive. There was another video floating around youtube that had a closer look at the car and interviewed the owner who gave a full rundown of the car, but can't seem to find it now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHOy...Lzc2g&index=54
edit...found the other video, here ya go
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOn0yyfXBr0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHOy...Lzc2g&index=54
edit...found the other video, here ya go
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOn0yyfXBr0
Andrew
Last edited by Project GatTagO; 03-13-2022 at 10:59 AM.
#11
TECH Enthusiast
If it was mine I'd run one ove the two intakes I'm posting, with the long block ove your choice. Maybe a big cam 5.3 with high compression and matching valve covers then hide the coils. Or a built 450+ cube after market block stroker with this fitted on top would be awesome.
Last edited by Kjduvall; 03-12-2022 at 06:31 PM.
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99 Black Bird T/A (03-12-2022)
#12
I went with a 6.0 and Turbo and 4l80E in my C3. It's not a ground thumper, but it's a cruiser that can drive to the track and do 10s on pump gas, and drive home. No need to change tires or even open the hood. It has thousands of miles on it. Very doable, lots of fabrication required.
It all depends on your goals.
If you want the ground thumping feel, maybe a cammed N/A is for you.
If you want more of a cruiser, then any LS with a turbo will cruise quietly and surprise people at the track and car show.
If you want to go north of 500hp, then turbo or supercharge.
If you're ok with 400hp, you can get a quiet, 383 N/A with good street manners and still have lots of fun.
If you are into Sticks, maybe better off supercharged than turbo.
What's your HP goals? What's your track time goals? What's your drive-ability goals?
It all depends on your goals.
If you want the ground thumping feel, maybe a cammed N/A is for you.
If you want more of a cruiser, then any LS with a turbo will cruise quietly and surprise people at the track and car show.
If you want to go north of 500hp, then turbo or supercharge.
If you're ok with 400hp, you can get a quiet, 383 N/A with good street manners and still have lots of fun.
If you are into Sticks, maybe better off supercharged than turbo.
What's your HP goals? What's your track time goals? What's your drive-ability goals?
Last edited by LSswap; 03-13-2022 at 04:06 PM.