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The pedal goes to the floor with the key off (no assist). when I turn the key on, the pedal lifts up, but will still go to the floor when pressed. However, the brakes are fully engaged at that point, there is just zero pedal feel. The pedal is a the right height normally, but it's like the first few inches of travel are doing nothing. I'm not hearing clicking, but I'm wondering if the pedal travel sensor has a problem.
Pushrod preload and pedal position sensor issues generally fail to no assist, not to no pedal pressure. If it is in fact bled completely I'd guess that the 1" bore stock master cylinder isn't moving enough fluid to fully engage the brakes. Have you checked line pressure at the master and at the calipers? If you find that the master cylinder is bad let me know. I have quite a few Bosch 0204821412 master cylinders with reservoirs
Okay, more data. With the power to the iBooster, the brakes work as you would expect without power assist. they pedal has good feel and does not go to the floor stops the rig without complaint. When you connect the power up while standing on the brake, you can feel it drop several inches before it gets any feel. LIke it's setting the 'active' position of the brake 3" below where it should be.
I tried using the Gen 1 booster from a Honda on my 65 Nova. I would get a strong shudder when it got to the bottom of the travel. I have seen several people complain of this issue. The master cylinder bore is almost identical to the Tesla and personally, I could never find the issue. I ended up going back to a manual, traditional booster but left the wiring in place so that I could try it again down the road when I found a solution.I just found this thread that might be useful:
After reading all the comments, it looks like the Honda unit has some programming that causes the shudder on Gen 1 units. That guy swapped out his Honda unit for a Tesla unit and it worked perfectly. So, I would avoid using the Honda units and stick to the Tesla unit. I haven't seen anyone trying the unit from the Chevy Volt/Bolt yet to see if it has the same issue. Hopefully, this saves someone some time!
I tried using the Gen 1 booster from a Honda on my 65 Nova. I would get a strong shudder when it got to the bottom of the travel. I have seen several people complain of this issue. The master cylinder bore is almost identical to the Tesla and personally, I could never find the issue. I ended up going back to a manual, traditional booster but left the wiring in place so that I could try it again down the road when I found a solution.I just found this thread that might be useful:
After reading all the comments, it looks like the Honda unit has some programming that causes the shudder on Gen 1 units. That guy swapped out his Honda unit for a Tesla unit and it worked perfectly. So, I would avoid using the Honda units and stick to the Tesla unit. I haven't seen anyone trying the unit from the Chevy Volt/Bolt yet to see if it has the same issue. Hopefully, this saves someone some time!
Good info Novapat67! I've been driving my car a bunch with the gen1 Tesla unit and haven't had any issue with a shudder. I will say that I did have an issue initially that took me a while to chase down when I first installed. It was wired up correctly, but got zero assist. Turned out I had the smallest amount of pre-load on the push rod. Caused it to never initiate assist. Shortened the rod a turn to give it some play, and immediately had all the assist.
I am still in the middle of my set up, but I have a gen 2 ibooster from an accord I am putting into my 2nd gen camaro
I still need to wire and plumb it, but all the hard stuff is figured out
This thread has lots of great info. Glad I stumbled across it.
I recently found a gen 1 iBooster from a 2019 CRV in the junkyard for $25 with the harness so I picked it up to try it out on my turbo Saab 9-7x. Got it bench bled and have spent considerable time bleeding each caliper and cycling the ABS module. I’m having similar issues where the pedal is dead for the first 1/3 or so of stroke.
I’ll report back as I try different brake line arrangements to try and get a decent pedal feel.
Anyone ever get a bad booster? I bought one today, and wired it up to a battery, and it doesn't do anything... ☹️ No click or anything.
"Wired up to a battery" is kind of vague, there's a little more to it than that. I'm glad to put it on our test stand for you and see if it's within spec for both line pressure and amp draw. eBay bargain boosters can be a crap shoot.
"Wired up to a battery" is kind of vague, there's a little more to it than that. I'm glad to put it on our test stand for you and see if it's within spec for both line pressure and amp draw. eBay bargain boosters can be a crap shoot.
I appreciate the offer, but probably not worth shipping to do it. I just wired up the pedal sensor, and the power and ground, then hooked up the ignition wire. No clicking, no assist, nothing. Bought it off marketplace, and of course the guy won't respond back now. I pulled the master cylinder off and it's pretty rusty inside, so now I'm thinking it was off a flood car or something.
No sure if I missed it in this thread but what's the easiest way to remove pin between booster and master cylinder. I want to use after market mc so I need to either make a longer pin or just extend this one. Any info would be greatly appreciated
No sure if I missed it in this thread but what's the easiest way to remove pin between booster and master cylinder. I want to use after market mc so I need to either make a longer pin or just extend this one. Any info would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Kevin
This will solve both problems. Backbay Customs master cylinder adaptor corrects master cylinder clocking (Wilwood, Baer etc.) and machined aluminum insert extends pushrod to correct length. In stock and ready to ship. $165
Made some progress with the iBooster. Used some of the information from here so I figured I would add some back. I made an adapter plate between the iBooster and the Master. I may set a second set of holes 180 out in the plate for the master so I can clock the iBooster to however it fits best in the car once I install it.
one question i ddi not see get addressed is the inner retainer ring. Does the correct master hae a sleeve that sits all the way in and up against the spring? I can't imaging that thin metal retainer is the only thing holding that spring back. I am thinking about milling out a ring that fits between that spring seat and the plate I made.
Im still considering recessing some of the bolts and figuring out how to deal with the wiring.
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