workingdog

The pedal goes to the floor with the key off (no assist). when I turn the key on, the pedal lifts up, but will still go to the floor when pressed. However, the brakes are fully engaged at that point, there is just zero pedal feel. The pedal is a the right height normally, but it's like the first few inches of travel are doing nothing. I'm not hearing clicking, but I'm wondering if the pedal travel sensor has a problem.

JPnTX

Pushrod preload and pedal position sensor issues generally fail to no assist, not to no pedal pressure. If it is in fact bled completely I'd guess that the 1" bore stock master cylinder isn't moving enough fluid to fully engage the brakes. Have you checked line pressure at the master and at the calipers? If you find that the master cylinder is bad let me know. I have quite a few Bosch 0204821412 master cylinders with reservoirs

workingdog

Okay, more data. With the power to the iBooster, the brakes work as you would expect without power assist. they pedal has good feel and does not go to the floor stops the rig without complaint. When you connect the power up while standing on the brake, you can feel it drop several inches before it gets any feel. LIke it's setting the 'active' position of the brake 3" below where it should be.

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

Which is better to get the gen 2 or Gen 1???

Which is more compact? Have some space constraints on the build I’m going to do so I need the one most compact.. thanks

great thread btw

Novapat67

I tried using the Gen 1 booster from a Honda on my 65 Nova. I would get a strong shudder when it got to the bottom of the travel. I have seen several people complain of this issue. The master cylinder bore is almost identical to the Tesla and personally, I could never find the issue. I ended up going back to a manual, traditional booster but left the wiring in place so that I could try it again down the road when I found a solution.I just found this thread that might be useful:

https://www.reddit.com/r/ft86/commen...rade_finished/

After reading all the comments, it looks like the Honda unit has some programming that causes the shudder on Gen 1 units. That guy swapped out his Honda unit for a Tesla unit and it worked perfectly. So, I would avoid using the Honda units and stick to the Tesla unit. I haven't seen anyone trying the unit from the Chevy Volt/Bolt yet to see if it has the same issue. Hopefully, this saves someone some time!

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Great information. Thanks for posting.

Andrew

TrendSetter

i used the honda gen2 in my chevelle and its been awesome, i recommend the conversion to everyone.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Good info Novapat67! I've been driving my car a bunch with the gen1 Tesla unit and haven't had any issue with a shudder. I will say that I did have an issue initially that took me a while to chase down when I first installed. It was wired up correctly, but got zero assist. Turned out I had the smallest amount of pre-load on the push rod. Caused it to never initiate assist. Shortened the rod a turn to give it some play, and immediately had all the assist.

JPnTX

Do you have any pictures of your installation?

TrendSetter

Pyroblock

I am still in the middle of my set up, but I have a gen 2 ibooster from an accord I am putting into my 2nd gen camaro
I still need to wire and plumb it, but all the hard stuff is figured out

Idahoan

This thread has lots of great info. Glad I stumbled across it.

I recently found a gen 1 iBooster from a 2019 CRV in the junkyard for $25 with the harness so I picked it up to try it out on my turbo Saab 9-7x. Got it bench bled and have spent considerable time bleeding each caliper and cycling the ABS module. I’m having similar issues where the pedal is dead for the first 1/3 or so of stroke.

I’ll report back as I try different brake line arrangements to try and get a decent pedal feel.

-Logan

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Looks good, but what's going on with your brake lines? They look either welded or brazed?