Gen 1 iBooster from a 2019 Honda CR-V


Gonna use it on my new project.

 

This guy is using it on his Electric C10 as seen here beginning about post 824 on page 33. Same hardware as the Tesla but 1/3 the price. I see them on Fleabay for $165 and up.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=826089&page=57


Gen2 are much bigger than the Gen 1 like I have.

 

I wonder if you can remove that plastic cap and get a regular fill reservoir. Or if you can just swap that MC for a tesla unit that has a regular reservoir like Andrew's.

 

the tesla reservoirs are at a fairly steep angle so its hard to make them level in old cars. i opted for remote reservoir.
i chose gen2 because i read that its lighter, but i also think it looks less dumb.

 

2016 Chevy Volt master reservoir is fairly horizontal.

 

i like that the ports come out the 'correct' side of the master from the honda and tesla ones i could find. i may try grabbing a cheapie off ebay to see if it fits the gen2. would help clean up my plumbing a little bit.

 

I'm remote mounting one under a 53 pickup due to space constraints and a smooth firewall request. This is a NOS chevy bolt? Volt? whatever junk chevy EV made in 2019 or so. Ebay special

Anyways, the connectors were going to be the most expensive parts. Instead I used Delphi metripack 150/480 terminals for the big connector and Delphi multitech inj terminals for the travel sensor. Injected potting compound into them and added a simple 3pin weatherpack for power/grd/IGN from the chassis. The travel sensors are no longer replaceable, but I have a whole other unit to swap in if something fails

Hardest to find part was the metric to STD flare nuts. The chevys use a very odd metric fine thread inverted flare (not bubble). M12x1.25 IIRC, maybe M12x1.0. Eventually I found adapters, but they were only available in 7/16 inv fl, but those are common for 3/16 and 1/4 line. I think hondas use a more common metric bubble flare. Youtuber superfastmatt did the intro video that got me interested in the booster and he goes over the honda fitting size

For this build, I needed to change the contained reservoir for a remote. I thought swapping to a honda master would solve the wierd fitting and res problem in one go. Turns out the masters have different bolt patterns AND insertion depths. Totally not interchangeable. One good thing is the res does swap. I think the chevy used a roll pin to retain the res where the honda had a shoulder bolt. I may be backwards there, going from memory. No biggie, and super simple to swap

Overall, I really like the units. They're compact, readily available and really push some brakes. Older single diaphram boosters simply can't compare. Do be aware they spike to 40A, so be sure the batt/alt are up to snuff

To explain the slave cyl, it's a remote setup. The brake pedal has a 90* under the dash to a compact clutch master. Pedal pushes the master which moves the slave which pushes the booster and engages the brakes. Yes, it's a couple more failure points in the system, but thats the price for super clean hidden everything

 

the honda master res was held on with a roll pin.
i went ahead and powered mine from one of the 25a outputs on my haltech so i can log the current and see what it actually does.

heres the proper pins for those diy types

 

really wish salvage yards would let you harvest the pigtails on really damaged cars. pigtail kit.

https://tulayswirewerks.com/product/bosch-ibooster-gen-1-connector-kit/

or

https://store.chiefenterprises.com/1928405762-26-Way-Bosch-Connector big connector source​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

 

Much more reasonable price on the big connectors

Connectors, terminals and shipping from the EV store was +/-$150 when I decided to pot them in permanent. That seemed excessive for two connectors

Any luck finding the small connector?

 

I am out of town and cant verify with my ibooster sensor but does this look correct?


https://www.aliexpress.us/item/22558...andl_shipto=US

Borrowed from another forum but here is some part numbers.
.................................................. ..........
Its just missing the plugs/ seals

ibooster gen1 connectors:

bosch

large conector: 1928405762

cover: 1928405765

pins: Bosch BTC Terminal

1928498807

1928498806

1928498705


small connector: 1-967640-1

pins: 5-965906-5

 

Just adding a few images for reference, the installation of a Hydroboost and Wilwood brake master cylinder on a 66 Ford T-Bird. It could be of value:

 

What I really want to know is how they compare to a hydroboost. I know there is a considerable difference between a hydroboost and vacuum booster. Maybe I need to hit up some used car lots and test drive something with one of these on it...

 

Go drive any hybrid Camry or Honda CR-V. I will do some testing on the bench soon but I figure if they can stop a 5800lb tesla from 150mph, they should wok for our applications. Not sure if fluid volume requirements for GM or ford wheel cylinders and calipers.

 

my tesla has a gen2 ibooster and it does great. one time i was on 95 in richmond and while in cruise/autopilot had the old 'guy in front of me changed lanes because the guy in front of him was stopped' move and it automatically stopped in time without me even doing enything.

 

Eager to see some actual feed back on how these work. I just finished the installation of the Tesla Gen 1 iBooster in my 70 GTO. I paid more for it, but I didn't want to mess around with the reservoir issues. The gen 1 Tesla units have a nicely positioned reservoir that tends to work well on older cars.



Andrew

 

I want to know if it will make your dentures fly out when you slam on the pedal. seriously.

 

I have no reason to believe that it would not work well. As was said above, if it's good enough for. 5500 pound Model S, it's good enough for my 4200 pound pile of parts.

Andrew

 

joking but still serious..... 

 

I'm curious too. One thing to remember, that the EVs get their full brake performance by also applying significant regen braking on top of the mechanical brakes. (My fleet currently includes a Mach E GT-P, alongside my LS swapped toys). In my daily driver, most of the normal braking is done via regen. My brakes never even get warm in my Mach E. Its kind of ridiculous to have 15" rotors on them.

Now, that being said, they still have to work good in case there is a fault in the regen...

The iBoosters have a 26m bore, According to this page: https://www.evcreate.nl/installing-the-ibooster/

I am curious if it can move enough fluid and have reasonable pedal travel with large caliber pistons. I wouldn't mind a better setup for my GMC.