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Of all the installs I’ve seen so far, yours is, hands down, the most creative. Well thought out and executed sir! I’m interested in why you chose an OE style prop valve vs. adjustable?
Regarding power off pedal pressure I would agree. No doubt you’ve gained some leverage advantage with hydraulics but even in conventional installs we’ve noticed that pedal effort doesn’t immediately go “full manual” when power is cut. I’ve wondered if the unit doesn’t remain at least partially energized for a bit after the switched circuit is interrupted.
I have my setup all plumbed and bled. Its just been on jack stands and have not actually used it yet to stop the vehicle. However, one off question I have- without power and just pushing on the brake pedal (this pushes the clutch master and that pushed the clutch slave which pushes the ibooster). The brake pedal does not ever get hard or act like its getting hard like a normal vacumn power brake system works. I can see the ibooster getting actuated via the linkage but the pedal never gets hard to push. Is this just normal in using this setup in this remote mount configuration?
mine is significantly stiffer with the power off.
when i shut the car off with the brakes pressed its enough to push the pedal up against the stop against my foot pressure.
mine is significantly stiffer with the power off.
when i shut the car off with the brakes pressed its enough to push the pedal up against the stop against my foot pressure.
Are you using a clutch master/slave combo to actuate the ibooster or have it direct to the brake pedal?
I think that having the clutch master/slave combo actuating the ibooster removes this “hard petal” feel noted with power off.
mine is direct. your question makes more sense now. im not sure it should be that soft if its bled correctly. the whole point of hydraulics is brake fluid isnt compressible and ive had some pretty damn stiff clutches on factory hydraulics in the past.
mine is direct. your question makes more sense now. im not sure it should be that soft if its bled correctly. the whole point of hydraulics is brake fluid isnt compressible and ive had some pretty damn stiff clutches on factory hydraulics in the past.
For anyone thats wondering. Just confirmed that if your using a clutch master and slave to actuate the ibooster. This setup eliminates the hard pedal feel- on my friends evo8 with a 2100 street clutch pressing the clutch pedal is hard but this is due to you pushing against the clutch pressure plate. Even with piwer off to the ibooster you can push the brake master rid in by hand so basically the clutch slave has very little spring resistance to go against powered OFF.
Put my 1970 mustang on my driveways incline and chocked it. Had my buddy with power off just press and hold the brake- removed the chocks- car did not move. Had him release some brake pedal pressure and the car would roll back but stop once the pedal was pressed some.
With power on just the ibooster, the brakes are se sensitive you will definatly need to get used to them, I see myself locking the wheels up way too easy as the brake pedal is super touchy.
Tested alot of boosters lately. Finally settled in on 90 ft/lbs of pedal pressure for comparison purposes. Every single booster I've tested thus far generated 1100 psi line pressure when energized. Second brake application it jumps to 1200. Stays energized about 1 minute after ignition is switched off. Same 90 ft/lbs generates ~250 psi line pressure when circuit is off.
I'm planning to run 3/16" brake lines on my car, and curious what everyone is doing for brake line adapters to get from the M12x1 inverted flare to 3/16" inverted flare? I read on the EV create site, that it's not ideal to go directly from M12x1 to 3/16" lines given the large openings in the MC's.
I'm planning to run 3/16" brake lines on my car, and curious what everyone is doing for brake line adapters to get from the M12x1 inverted flare to 3/16" inverted flare? I read on the EV create site, that it's not ideal to go directly from M12x1 to 3/16" lines given the large openings in the MC's.
You are correct. You’ll want to step down to M10 and then you can use a M10 tube nut on 3/16” brake line. Alternately for a little cleaner look you can go straight from M12 to AN3 and just flare the 3/16ths line for AN3
I don't recall the exact fitting I used on the Chevy Bolt master, but it took several orders. The last one in my records was Edelmann 26500 M12x1.0 male bubble to female 3/8" 24 inv flare
Each different master uses different fittings, so don't expect one size fits all
You are correct. You’ll want to step down to M10 and then you can use a M10 tube nut on 3/16” brake line. Alternately for a little cleaner look you can go straight from M12 to AN3 and just flare the 3/16ths line for AN3
Do you have any recommended fittings? The Tesla brake booster uses M12x1 inverted flares.
Do you have any recommended fittings? The Tesla brake booster uses M12x1 inverted flares.
I'm sure I've got whatever you might need. Send me the Bosch part number for the master you are using. Gen 1 Model X and Model S generally use part number 0204821412
My Tesla iBooster came with the pigtails already, so I am going to install some high quality seamless barrel connectors onto the existing connectors. I wanted to de-pin the connector to remove the extra wires for CAN sensors as they will not be used. It took me a few minutes to figure out how to get the top piece off to get to the wiring. Thought I'd share here.
This is what I started with
There are two tabs that lock the rotating part of the locking connector in place. I used a small flathead and pushed them to the outside of the connector so that it unlocked and allowed the piece to rotate. Hard to see, but I circled them in red.
In order to get access to the pins, the upper locking part of the connector needs to be removed. Start by inserting a small flat head screwdriver into the small hole where the white paint is and gently pry to the outside of the connector. It will pop the upper connector off of the tab ahead of it.
Once that end is loose, there are two tabs holding the other side on. I found that you can gently pry those off here, but you can also rotate it up and towards the opposite side and the top connector came right off.
Once the top piece is removed, you have access to the pins from the back side.
Flip the connector over and in order to remove the pins, you need to slid the purple locking clip towards the right in this picture. It is in the unlocked position here, so you'll do the reverse when you are finished and slide the clip to the left to lock the pins in place.
To remove the pins, there is a very tiny tang in that needs to be released. I found that pushing the terminal in first then pulling helped to release the pins much easier.
This is the extra wiring that I was left with.
Then I was left with the wires that are needed for this to operate. Essentially there are 4 wires that need to be kept. The main 12v power (yellow), main ground (black), secondary 12v constant (red) and the switched 12v (red w/ white tracer). The other 4 wires coming out of the main connector go to the pedal travel sensor and remain untouched.
I sealed up the open holes with connector seals, labelled my wiring, wrapped with cloth electric tape, then reversed the process to reassemble the connector. This is the final result ready to be integrated into my car. There is a great wiring diagram on evcreate's website, which I found extremely helpful. That site is a huge resource for the entire project as well.
Hoping to have the brakes fully functional very soon, so I'll report back with my impressions of the brake booster swap.
i did similar except i removed all the wiring and replaced it with tefzel. i was able to track down all the correct pins and seals. its posted in my thread and i think also in andrews thread.
Rather than starting a new thread, I'm jumping here since there's so much good information.
I've got 2 iBoosters installed. One is in an EV version of a '66 fj45 landcruiser (aluminum body and 2 hyper 9's, so it's light). It's a gen 2 iBooster with 2020 Jeep Rubicon axles. It works great, lots of pedal pressure.
The other I'm working on now is a 1953 Dodge M37 military pickup (LS3). It's much heavier. It has a gen 1 iBooster that I bought my mistake. It's from a model S as that's the heaviest vehcile I could think of with electric booster. This rig has a Dana 60 in front and a 14 bolt in the rear - so much more brakes than the EV. The brakes work, but I can't get any pedal pressure at all. The pedal goes all the way to the floor. It's like they need to be bled, but they've been fully bled - and it does stop, just no feel.
Looking for some help on how to fix this. I read the entire thread. Is there issues around leverage or pedal position or canbus I need to be looking at. I'm running the Tulay wiring harness.
I would think that if the pedal goes to the floor, you either still have air in the system, any rubber brake lines are bulging or the volume of brake fluid needed to fully activate the (drum?) brake pistons exceeds what the master cylinder can provide. I suspect it is the latter and you will need to use a higher volume master cylinder.
Rather than starting a new thread, I'm jumping here since there's so much good information.
I've got 2 iBoosters installed. One is in an EV version of a '66 fj45 landcruiser (aluminum body and 2 hyper 9's, so it's light). It's a gen 2 iBooster with 2020 Jeep Rubicon axles. It works great, lots of pedal pressure.
The other I'm working on now is a 1953 Dodge M37 military pickup (LS3). It's much heavier. It has a gen 1 iBooster that I bought my mistake. It's from a model S as that's the heaviest vehcile I could think of with electric booster. This rig has a Dana 60 in front and a 14 bolt in the rear - so much more brakes than the EV. The brakes work, but I can't get any pedal pressure at all. The pedal goes all the way to the floor. It's like they need to be bled, but they've been fully bled - and it does stop, just no feel.
Looking for some help on how to fix this. I read the entire thread. Is there issues around leverage or pedal position or canbus I need to be looking at. I'm running the Tulay wiring harness.
Lots of potential issues, need more information. Assuming everything is completely bled, my guess is that you have a volume problem. What brakes are on the truck?
Brakes are stock disc brakes for modern Dana 60 in front and stock modern 14 bolt disc in rear. These are big, but there are so many versions of both the Dana 60 and 14 bolt I'd have to go out and investigate if you need to know piston size. Yes, everything is bled, many times.
All brake lines are stainless steel braided, nothing rubber. I agree that it might be the master is undersized, but it was my understanding the Model S had a pretty big master cylinder, although I'm trusting eBay to have sent one that came out of a Model S. Google says it's 26mm, which is 1.024". Which is pretty big. My understanding is that big should give me decent pedal pressure.
Last edited by workingdog; 02-14-2024 at 10:26 AM.
Brakes are stock disc brakes for modern Dana 60 in front and stock modern 14 bolt disc in rear. These are big, but there are so many versions of both the Dana 60 and 14 bolt I'd have to go out and investigate if you need to know piston size. Yes, everything is bled, many times.
All brake lines are stainless steel braided, nothing rubber. I agree that it might be the master is undersized, but it was my understanding the Model S had a pretty big master cylinder, although I'm trusting eBay to have sent one that came out of a Model S. Google says it's 26mm, which is 1.024". Which is pretty big. My understanding is that big should give me decent pedal pressure.
Got it. I assumed you still had some military sized drum brakes. Just trying to cover all possibilities.
If you try hard, does the pedal go to the floor without assist? Or only with electrical assist?
07-10-2023, 02:14 PM
