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This guy is using it on his Electric C10 as seen here beginning about post 824 on page 33. Same hardware as the Tesla but 1/3 the price. I see them on Fleabay for $165 and up.
I wonder if you can remove that plastic cap and get a regular fill reservoir. Or if you can just swap that MC for a tesla unit that has a regular reservoir like Andrew's.
the tesla reservoirs are at a fairly steep angle so its hard to make them level in old cars. i opted for remote reservoir.
i chose gen2 because i read that its lighter, but i also think it looks less dumb.
i like that the ports come out the 'correct' side of the master from the honda and tesla ones i could find. i may try grabbing a cheapie off ebay to see if it fits the gen2. would help clean up my plumbing a little bit.
I'm remote mounting one under a 53 pickup due to space constraints and a smooth firewall request. This is a NOS chevy bolt? Volt? whatever junk chevy EV made in 2019 or so. Ebay special
Anyways, the connectors were going to be the most expensive parts. Instead I used Delphi metripack 150/480 terminals for the big connector and Delphi multitech inj terminals for the travel sensor. Injected potting compound into them and added a simple 3pin weatherpack for power/grd/IGN from the chassis. The travel sensors are no longer replaceable, but I have a whole other unit to swap in if something fails
Hardest to find part was the metric to STD flare nuts. The chevys use a very odd metric fine thread inverted flare (not bubble). M12x1.25 IIRC, maybe M12x1.0. Eventually I found adapters, but they were only available in 7/16 inv fl, but those are common for 3/16 and 1/4 line. I think hondas use a more common metric bubble flare. Youtuber superfastmatt did the intro video that got me interested in the booster and he goes over the honda fitting size
For this build, I needed to change the contained reservoir for a remote. I thought swapping to a honda master would solve the wierd fitting and res problem in one go. Turns out the masters have different bolt patterns AND insertion depths. Totally not interchangeable. One good thing is the res does swap. I think the chevy used a roll pin to retain the res where the honda had a shoulder bolt. I may be backwards there, going from memory. No biggie, and super simple to swap
Overall, I really like the units. They're compact, readily available and really push some brakes. Older single diaphram boosters simply can't compare. Do be aware they spike to 40A, so be sure the batt/alt are up to snuff
To explain the slave cyl, it's a remote setup. The brake pedal has a 90* under the dash to a compact clutch master. Pedal pushes the master which moves the slave which pushes the booster and engages the brakes. Yes, it's a couple more failure points in the system, but thats the price for super clean hidden everything
the honda master res was held on with a roll pin.
i went ahead and powered mine from one of the 25a outputs on my haltech so i can log the current and see what it actually does.
Borrowed from another forum but here is some part numbers.
.................................................. .......... Its just missing the plugs/ seals
What I really want to know is how they compare to a hydroboost. I know there is a considerable difference between a hydroboost and vacuum booster. Maybe I need to hit up some used car lots and test drive something with one of these on it...
Go drive any hybrid Camry or Honda CR-V. I will do some testing on the bench soon but I figure if they can stop a 5800lb tesla from 150mph, they should wok for our applications. Not sure if fluid volume requirements for GM or ford wheel cylinders and calipers.
What I really want to know is how they compare to a hydroboost. I know there is a considerable difference between a hydroboost and vacuum booster. Maybe I need to hit up some used car lots and test drive something with one of these on it...
my tesla has a gen2 ibooster and it does great. one time i was on 95 in richmond and while in cruise/autopilot had the old 'guy in front of me changed lanes because the guy in front of him was stopped' move and it automatically stopped in time without me even doing enything.
Eager to see some actual feed back on how these work. I just finished the installation of the Tesla Gen 1 iBooster in my 70 GTO. I paid more for it, but I didn't want to mess around with the reservoir issues. The gen 1 Tesla units have a nicely positioned reservoir that tends to work well on older cars.
I want to know if it will make your dentures fly out when you slam on the pedal. seriously.
I have no reason to believe that it would not work well. As was said above, if it's good enough for. 5500 pound Model S, it's good enough for my 4200 pound pile of parts.
I have no reason to believe that it would not work well. As was said above, if it's good enough for. 5500 pound Model S, it's good enough for my 4200 pound pile of parts.
Andrew
I'm curious too. One thing to remember, that the EVs get their full brake performance by also applying significant regen braking on top of the mechanical brakes. (My fleet currently includes a Mach E GT-P, alongside my LS swapped toys). In my daily driver, most of the normal braking is done via regen. My brakes never even get warm in my Mach E. Its kind of ridiculous to have 15" rotors on them.
Now, that being said, they still have to work good in case there is a fault in the regen...
01-15-2023, 02:40 PM
