LS1 in a 240sx.....240ss!!!!
#161
I just picked up a 1998 S14 Se and a 2003 vette LS1.
I really want to keep the low profile pan. Having the lowest center of gravity possible is at the top of my priority list. It's unfortunate that the steering rack is behind the crossmember on the 240sx. With my car here, this is just a guesstimate, but I don't think that there is a whole bunch more than 7" from the back of the rack to the firewall verticle!
The other problem is the depths of the pans. Everyone is using the GTO pan which is 6" deep in front. The corvette pan is somewhere between 4.75" and 5.25" deep. So best case scenario, any one using a gto pan is throwing away at least .75" and not having the engine as low as it can go.
Most people aren't going to want to hear this but that leaves four options:
1. dry sump: $$$ and a bad idea on the street.
2. modify the gto pan and the oil pickup so that the sump is no deeper than needed, then maybe even some more mods for clearancing around the steering rack.
3. move the firewall.
4. put in a front suspension from another car that has the steering rack in front.
Maybe it's just because I don't know any better, but right now I'm leaning towards pulling six inches out of the firewall so that I can keep my gullwing pan, and get that engine as far back and down as possible. Brian's weight distribution should end up better than 55/45, which is probably better than stock. And you never hear anyone complaing about the stock handling, especially after some well thought out mods. So by shoving the engine back even farther than he could (he's trying to sell kits, and kit buyers don't want to be hacking and welding on firewalls and tranny tunnels) Hopefully I can get real close to the magical 50/50. We'll see.
I really want to keep the low profile pan. Having the lowest center of gravity possible is at the top of my priority list. It's unfortunate that the steering rack is behind the crossmember on the 240sx. With my car here, this is just a guesstimate, but I don't think that there is a whole bunch more than 7" from the back of the rack to the firewall verticle!
The other problem is the depths of the pans. Everyone is using the GTO pan which is 6" deep in front. The corvette pan is somewhere between 4.75" and 5.25" deep. So best case scenario, any one using a gto pan is throwing away at least .75" and not having the engine as low as it can go.
Most people aren't going to want to hear this but that leaves four options:
1. dry sump: $$$ and a bad idea on the street.
2. modify the gto pan and the oil pickup so that the sump is no deeper than needed, then maybe even some more mods for clearancing around the steering rack.
3. move the firewall.
4. put in a front suspension from another car that has the steering rack in front.
Maybe it's just because I don't know any better, but right now I'm leaning towards pulling six inches out of the firewall so that I can keep my gullwing pan, and get that engine as far back and down as possible. Brian's weight distribution should end up better than 55/45, which is probably better than stock. And you never hear anyone complaing about the stock handling, especially after some well thought out mods. So by shoving the engine back even farther than he could (he's trying to sell kits, and kit buyers don't want to be hacking and welding on firewalls and tranny tunnels) Hopefully I can get real close to the magical 50/50. We'll see.
#164
Marshun you just need to look around I think there are now currently like 5 240 build threads scattered around pages 1,2,3 (at the latest) Feel free to see the different mount systems we came up with. Most of us I believe have spent less than 300 for our mount systems. (clears stock hood, doesnt requrie 2 inch spacer ECT)
#165
Originally Posted by Chin180sx
Marshun you just need to look around I think there are now currently like 5 240 build threads scattered around pages 1,2,3 (at the latest) Feel free to see the different mount systems we came up with. Most of us I believe have spent less than 300 for our mount systems. (clears stock hood, doesnt requrie 2 inch spacer ECT)
i saw the LT swap and i think there was another, but im going for the LSx swap myself so thats why i was only lookin for those.
i didnt want to do the 2 inch spacer thing for the front x member so thats why i've been digging around the internet for more info. (just trying to gather up my options)
one of my ideas was to have a whole new front cross member made tubular....but....i dont got that kinda skill. i just thought it'd be a good idea, lessen the weight and keep the same suspension geometry.
i think i've only seen one way of doin the tranny mount though.
#166
There are 2 ways of doing the tranny mount right now.
The 1st is how i did, modifying and bring back the stock 240 mount using thick plate steel and thick retagular steel (i used 1"x2") steel across to mount to the tranny.
The Hinson kit used square tubing straight across to both sides of the frame rails and put circular cut outs where the exhaust could run though. Of course the exhaust pipes inside of these two circles cannot be removed without cutting them out. (and have to be put in the crossmemeber before install)
The 1st way is deffinatly the way to go IMO
The 1st is how i did, modifying and bring back the stock 240 mount using thick plate steel and thick retagular steel (i used 1"x2") steel across to mount to the tranny.
The Hinson kit used square tubing straight across to both sides of the frame rails and put circular cut outs where the exhaust could run though. Of course the exhaust pipes inside of these two circles cannot be removed without cutting them out. (and have to be put in the crossmemeber before install)
The 1st way is deffinatly the way to go IMO
#167
Originally Posted by marshun
one of my ideas was to have a whole new front cross member made tubular....but....i dont got that kinda skill. i just thought it'd be a good idea, lessen the weight and keep the same suspension geometry.
Originally Posted by marshun
i think i've only seen one way of doin the tranny mount though.
http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL828.../181387357.jpg
I've got a thread started in this section titled 'Project 346SX...' if you'd like to check out the other pics.
#169
I see GIGAPUNK is also from the People's Republic of Kalifornia, and I was wonder how easily or if it is even possible to get this swap CARB legal. I have been contemplating about either a FC/FD RX-7(more likely the FC), but I am very intrigued by the 240sx. I know what the requirments are, but I have read a lot about how the 240sx rear-steering gets in the way (depending on motor position) of either stock headers or the catalytic converters. I realize with enough money anything is possible, but for me there comes a point when the law of diminishing returns becomes a real consideration.
I know there are various 240sx build threads out there (I have most of them booked marked) anyone who can comment on this would be great.
I know there are various 240sx build threads out there (I have most of them booked marked) anyone who can comment on this would be great.
Last edited by Made In the USA; 09-21-2006 at 06:15 PM.
#170
thanks chin and ted. i've checked out ted's thread and i posted in there too
chin do you have a pic of you tranny mount? i cant picture in my head what you've explained
tomorrow im going to check out some ls1 motors complete with trans. i hope it all works out and i can pick it up
chin do you have a pic of you tranny mount? i cant picture in my head what you've explained
tomorrow im going to check out some ls1 motors complete with trans. i hope it all works out and i can pick it up
#171
hey anyone know if the original post guy is still making the kits or anytihng? i'm currently ready to drop in my ls1 in to my 92' 240sx. yeah i'm debating on different mounting positions, i'm mainly thinking of welding to the stock cross member to meet up with the engine, and just making a new tranny mount to line up with the stock holes on the chassis and get it bent down and in to meet up with the t56.
#172
Im not one to usually bring a thread back from the dead nor do I usually post a lot, I'm more of a reader..but, I just purchased a '93 240 and plan on dropping an LS? into it so any feedback in the near future will be greatly appreciated. I plan on documenting the install step by step (pictures and all for those who aren't fond of reading a novel). TIA
#173
From what i've gathered on the internet. The main things to get done or consider before starting the swap. Item check list.
my swap is LT1/T56 into a s13
0. research
1. remove everything from the engine bay, if you keep your original wiring harness for lights etc.. unplug it, pull it through the firewall and relocate to inside. pull your power wire through & headlight wires through as needed. keep your original brake booster.
2. motor
3. transmission. clutch/flywheel/clutch slave/clutch master cylinder(unless you think the stock master is good enough)
4. decide on custom oilpan vs. steering rack or whatever & order it
5. figure out the best solution for the headers vs. steering column
6. stock driveshaft,
--
QUESTIONS.
I'm having trouble at the moment finding info on the oilpan. if you know anything about fit ment of the LT1 & its oil/sump whatever hit me up on AIM: PirateDrift
--
my swap is LT1/T56 into a s13
0. research
1. remove everything from the engine bay, if you keep your original wiring harness for lights etc.. unplug it, pull it through the firewall and relocate to inside. pull your power wire through & headlight wires through as needed. keep your original brake booster.
2. motor
3. transmission. clutch/flywheel/clutch slave/clutch master cylinder(unless you think the stock master is good enough)
4. decide on custom oilpan vs. steering rack or whatever & order it
5. figure out the best solution for the headers vs. steering column
6. stock driveshaft,
--
QUESTIONS.
I'm having trouble at the moment finding info on the oilpan. if you know anything about fit ment of the LT1 & its oil/sump whatever hit me up on AIM: PirateDrift
--
#175
The problem with the transmission alternatives, is that by the time you are done modifying them to withstand any torque, you may as well have gone with the t56. Plus none of the "alternatives" have a double overdrive. A third problem is that the t56 clutches have a tone more surface area than the alternatives, and your clutch selection will suffer for it. You can find an adapter for most anything though, but imo, it's a waste of time/money. If you're undertaking this swap... prepare to pony up.
#176
Thanks for the input,
From what I gathered so far HSC, Daft, and Sikky are the companies that make kits am I missing any?
I personally need my Project to be a plug n play process as much as possible. So if there is an exact parts list that would be great. If I missed it I'm srry Ive been reading a whole lot and just never saw one.
Thanks,
Freddy
From what I gathered so far HSC, Daft, and Sikky are the companies that make kits am I missing any?
I personally need my Project to be a plug n play process as much as possible. So if there is an exact parts list that would be great. If I missed it I'm srry Ive been reading a whole lot and just never saw one.
Thanks,
Freddy
#179
Thanks for the props. Give us a call or email when you're free. We'll be happy to spend some time with you and discuss the different approaches available for the conversion. We're looking forward to hearing from you soon.
#180
Hinson has great stuff. I got my mount kit from pxracing.com and very pleased with it. I have their t56 trans crossmember for sale since I swapped to th350. Hit me up with pm if any questions