Great page on your '54 Studebaker/LS1 build. I am just getting started, working with a cherry but stock Starliner Hardtop. Is there any way I could talk to you? This is my first time on a web site like this.
Studesrule

 

Stu Cool,
I am new to this internet communication process, so please bear with me. I have reviewed your LS1 swap on hotrodders.com, very detailed and loaded with great information, thank you for doing such a great job. I had a '54 Coupe back in the early '60's, built it with a SBC 283 and 3 speed (couldn't touch and 4 speed with my budget back then).
I bought another '54 several years ago, very cherry hardtop. I'm just starting a project to install an LS1 and 6 speed manual, narrowed 9" (I will mini tub the car), Phantom Studebaker (Knoxville, TN) front end upgrade the retains the stock frame, uses fabricated A frames, Granada spindles (stronger than MII), GM disc brakes, Flaming River rack & pinion. I found a low mileage '97 Corvette LS1 that is being checked out now (prior to my purchase). I would really like to talk with you, but I don't know if that is possible/allowed in this process. If it is possible and OK with you please let me know how to get in touch with you.
Studesrule

 

Sent you a private message with my phone numbers, or send me an email at p.dilling@comcast.net. Be happy to help if I can

Pat

 

Any idea as to what color pins go into C105 connector for a 1998? Mine only has a tan and pink one, Is there suppose to be more?

 

I'm Ken from Utah, new to LS1Tech, and trying to figure out how to navigate this site.
I'm building a '54 Studebaker with a 19,000 mile aluminum '97 Corvette LS1 (was an automatic transmission car, in the rear of course) and a Camaro T56 six speed. I have upgraded the Studebaker front suspension with fabricated tubular "A" arms, Chrysler ball joints, Granada spindles, GM disc brakes and a Flaming River rack and pinion. The rear will get a narrowed 9", I will move the springs inboard and minitub it so I can use "proper" wheels and tires.
I built a '54 Studebaker in 1961 with a 283 chevy and a 3 speed, this is a little more complicated. (Yah, I'm an old guy.)
I have lots of questions that I would like input on:
1) Need to buy a flywheel/clutch assembly, I hear it is best to use LS2 stuff. Any comments/guidance?
2) I have a brake, clutch pedal assembly out of a Gen 4 '95 Camaro. The clutch master cylinder is weirdly positioned at an angle below the brake master cylinder - not sure if it is from a V8 or a V6 car. Is this usable with the LS1 hydraulic throwout bearing? Is there a better pedal set up to use?
3) I will be modifying/replacing the Studebaker firewall, as it is too flexible to mount a swing pedal assembly (and it has lots of ugly stuff, holes, you know the issue), so I can design/build any brackets I need.
4) I hope to do a trial fit of the engine this week, any suggestions for universal motor mounts that I could modify? This engine has cast the Corvette aluminum mounts that appear too bulky to clear my rack/pinion, so I will have to build some.
5) I think the Corvette accessories will fit OK, I understand that I may have to replace the A/C compressor if I use a VintageAir unit, they tell me the variable displacement compressor (Corvette) will not work with their system. Question: I am not using a power rack and pinion, but would like to keep the Corvette serpentine accessory drive, is there an idler pulley I can replace the power steering pump with, or can I simply use the power steering pump as an idler by a) running it empty, or b) removing the impeller and running it empty, or c) designing a fluid loop from discharge to suction with an pressure breakdown orifice and run it with fluid or d) any other ideas?
I have a lot more questions, but any input on these would be appreciated.
I also have a custom '83 El Camino with an LT1/L460E that I could post some pictures of, if I can figure out how to do that.
Thanks,
Studesrule

 

Some new plumbing stuff from Russell.

Plumbing kit 641600


Fitting 640940 (I think this is actually a photo of the 5/16 fitting 640930 given the small through hole.)




Fuel pressure takeoff 640730:

 

where can I get these (above) the part number comes up filter bracket?

 

Dislexia strikes. The p/n is 640940. Any Russell vendor should be able to order the parts. Fittings should be on the shelf next week with the fuel system kit shortly behind.

 

Much better thanks!

 

Check this out:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post10472407
In addition, Hot Rod Air says the LS1 compressor can be used with their system. -Bob

 

just wanted to say thanks to everyone who has posted info on here, the information was very helpful. I have got my engine swap in my 72 firebird pretty much done and car is running but i was wondering if anyone knows how to make a autometer electric speedo work with a t-56 trans?

 

You have to tap into the speed sens. wire at the motor PCM. I"M not sure what pin it is right off hand.

 

is it the VSS low reference signal pin 20 or VSS signal wire pin 21

 

You have to splice into the VSS out from the trans and hook that to the Autometer speedo directly. The feed coming out of the PCM isn't strong enough for the Autometer speedo's to read not that it matters really the Autometer electronic speedos are easy to calibrate for any gears.

*edit* While I'm at it I might as well post about the autometer tach issue as well. They work fine set to 4cyl pulse but require a boost feed 12+ through a 4K resistor to boost the signal from the PCM out. 4K resistors are cheap and readilly available so you simply run 12v+ from a source like accessory out on your fuse box and run that to the 4K then coming out of the 4k you just splice that into the feed from the PCM to the tach. Works great thanks to Speartech for that tip

 

So far I have seen no mention of converting to a mechanical speedo so here is the cable-x box link. I will report on how it will work after I get it in.

http://www.abbott-tach.com/cablex.htm

 

Some info on electrical. I bought a donar car and have the entire harness. I am going to use not only the engine harness but also the engine bay harness along with the new fuse box. Rather than cutting the harnesses, removing wires, etc. I plan on using the entire engine and engine bay harness as is by tying into the original dash at the fuse box and at the connectors. I am going to tie my original hardware such as lights, fans, etc into the existing harness by using metripak connectors at the harness connections under the hood. One metripak per side to take car of the headlights, parking lights, driving lights, etc. This means no cutting or hacking on the harness just removing the wires and placing them into a new 10 wire metripak per side. The dash side is a bit more complicated but using the steering column and the wiper motor leaves me to hook up the light switch and gauges not too bad. The connectors can be bought at the normal mail order houses Sum&Jes. If you go this route make sure you get the correct crimper. The connectors and tools are at Caspers Electronics.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/mm...y_Code=CONNECT

 

http://www.keefeperformance.com/ has much better pricing and selection.

 

As this is a great thread!

Some of the pic's do need to be downsized!

 

Here is a little Wiring Guide that I made that has helped a few people..figure it will be good info here..


https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...o-lt1-car.html

 

Can anyone help me find the mating flanges for the Corvette 12561255/12561256 exhaust maifolds (with one offset hole @ 3.75" on each)?
I am building a 1937 Chevy and I may have to make them, does any one have the correct hole dimensions?