Me to 04 GTO ls1 with T56 manual, pin outs for pcm, body control unit and clutch switch thank you.

 

I have 04 GTO data in my online manual. I will take a look at it & see if this info is available.

EDIT
Found it in one place, but the file size is too large for one document (forum rule). I have copied it as PCM Connector C1 and C2 to Microsoft Word Documents & attached them. It will not copy & paste here due to graphics.

Didn't see a listing for a body control unit, too many things in there.

For the clutch switch:
Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) Switch



Connector Part Information
S42
2-Way Female (WH)

Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function

A
GY/BU
275
Neutral Safety Switch Signal

B
GY
434
Park Neutral Position Switch Park Signal

 

Thanks V8, we appreciate it

 

Thanks very much thats a big help.

 

This parts number comes up as a ZR1 part, and runs 35 dollars. Is that the same part you are talking about? The illistration looks weird too, is it just a tube that you splice into the upper radiator hose with a nipple? thanks

 

need flanges for your 302 or 351 headers to bolt onto your mustang?

PN 0178 for the 1 3/4" LS1 flange, 1 3/4" its $24.95 for the pair.
http://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/

 

Any one have 06 GTO pinouts and what wire I need to get rid of for my 1997 nissan 240sx swap

 

Put the LS6 rear steam caps on all 4 holes and don't worry about putting a hole in your water pump. The only reason for the holes is to get constant flow through the TB for cold weather. You're wasting your money buying bypass kits and drilling holes in pumps. Make sure you fill your radiator through the hose and bleed the plugs in your heads as you fill and you'll be fine. Been there, done that and I'm trying to save you guys alot of heartache and wasted time.

 

I dunno if I would be so quick to delete them. The crossover serves to bleed air bubbles out of the heads and without them an air bubble may get stuck and cause overheating. You may be able to get away without the crossover but it is there for a reason. In fact, on many high horsepower applications engine builders will add a rear crossover along with the front one. (front and rear ones were stock on 97-98 LS1s)

 

I'm running the 97-98 style crossover on my 5.3 with a LS6 intake, had to grind a few of the ribs on the bottom of the intake to get the lines to fit. Anybody else doing this? I think it's going to work, just seems like GM wouldn't have designed it into the engine if it wasn't usefull at all.

 

It was designed for the throttle body. I've talked with GM, AFR and Patriot before plugging them off and I was told I didn't need them. It's your choice to use the TB bypass holes and I'm not telling you not to but it's just a waste of money to make mods you don't need if the coolant system is filled correctly and bled. Your older heads don't have them and the coolant passages are pretty much the same design. The LS1 uses the older conventional cooling direction which forces air bubbles downward unlike the reverse flow heads which directed air upward causing hot spots. I just wanted to share my experience on deleting them on over 15 LS1's with no issues. Not trying to disrespect anyones opinion just letting you guys know a fact.

 

I don't think that the rear steam vents will hurt anything (and I'll probably end up using them) but to back up WS6truck all of our cars have a decent angle of layback to the engine so that the front steam vents are actually the highest point.

 

Thanks GIGAPUNK, the rear vents on the LS6 come plugged from the factory. The only reason for 4 vents is to be able to swap heads from one side to the other. On the LS6's the front vents only go through the throttle body. If they were really needed that bad the rears wouldn't come plugged off.

 

FYI, PN 25121942 has apparently been superceded - when I looked it up today on GMPD, that number was assigned to a fender...

 

Does any of these are the same wiring for a 03 Silverado SS???

 

Could any one give at least 2 web sites sale these parts?
F-body Oil Pan: 12558762
F-body Oil Pump Pickup: 12558251
F-body Windage Tray: 12558253
F-body Dipstick: 12551581
F-body Dipstick Tube: 12551577

 

Here is what I did...

 

With the steam tube disconnected from the TB, there is no need to cap off the tubes that go through it as there is no flow of anything through it. I ran from my steam tube output directly to a port on my radiator. You can use some pliers to twist and pull the tubes out of the TB for a cleaner look.

The top of the radiator in my sandrail is higher than the tube. I use a vacuum pump to suck all the air out of the head.

 

Anybody have any info as to where I can get one of these?

 

CarQuest / Napa or an auto parts store of similar quality will be able to order them. The one here in Indy keeps them in stock.