Best place for aftermarket fuel lines
06-04-2005, 12:08 PM
#6
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I don't believe running rubber line or even stainless overbraided line (Aeropquip) is the way to go. It is too vulnerable to rot and the stainless overbraided rubber hose can act like sandpaper and wear the hose where two hoses touch each other. It can also take out wires or anything else that is rounted next to it.
The best method is to run hard line, which is relatively cheap compared to rubber, and much safer. I buy annealed aluminum 3/8" line from the local air conditioning parts store and I can plumb a whole car for about $15.
Whatever you do, dont make connections to the tube with a hose clamp and a piece of rubber tube. You are asking for a fire. Buy or borrow a 37 degree "Parker" flaring tool and plumb it in AN fittings. You don't need the fancy anodized aluminum ones either- you can buy steel ones cheap at any hydraulics supply.
Put lots of isolation clamps as you install the line in the car. Use a cheap tubing bender to keep from restricting the flow area of the tube. The spring type tube benders don't work worth a damn - don't bother.
I hope I didn't throw a terd in the punchbowl in your thinking about this - just want to keep it safe.
Phil
The best method is to run hard line, which is relatively cheap compared to rubber, and much safer. I buy annealed aluminum 3/8" line from the local air conditioning parts store and I can plumb a whole car for about $15.
Whatever you do, dont make connections to the tube with a hose clamp and a piece of rubber tube. You are asking for a fire. Buy or borrow a 37 degree "Parker" flaring tool and plumb it in AN fittings. You don't need the fancy anodized aluminum ones either- you can buy steel ones cheap at any hydraulics supply.
Put lots of isolation clamps as you install the line in the car. Use a cheap tubing bender to keep from restricting the flow area of the tube. The spring type tube benders don't work worth a damn - don't bother.
I hope I didn't throw a terd in the punchbowl in your thinking about this - just want to keep it safe.
Phil
06-04-2005, 06:19 PM
#7
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I've been thinking a lot about the fuel system in my LS1 RX7 and I think I've also decided to run new hard line from the front to back. I have used braided hose before and honestly don't like using it because it can kink and is a pain to route cleanly.
I did some wiring for a person swapping an LS1 into an older nova (63?) and they used some nice anodized hard line that I believe was aluminum. I'm not sure where they got the lines from though.
I haven't looked too much into where to buy what I need but I figured I could run a the stock fbody intank pump assembly in my original gas tank, run a single larger hardline from the rear of the car to the front. Use rubber isolated clamps on the hard line and then the final connection to the fuel rail just run a small section of braided AN line to allow for engine movement. For the evap line I was planning on using the original feed line in my mazda.
Does anyone know where to find some nice automotive specific hard line that is meant for fuel? I know I can use cheaper parts from an hose supply or air conditioner store but I always feel a little better using automotive specific parts. The ones I saw also had a nice anodized finish. Also my past experience with hardware store rubber clamps isn't that great, they tend to crack over time. Anyone know where to get some nice ones?
I did some wiring for a person swapping an LS1 into an older nova (63?) and they used some nice anodized hard line that I believe was aluminum. I'm not sure where they got the lines from though.
I haven't looked too much into where to buy what I need but I figured I could run a the stock fbody intank pump assembly in my original gas tank, run a single larger hardline from the rear of the car to the front. Use rubber isolated clamps on the hard line and then the final connection to the fuel rail just run a small section of braided AN line to allow for engine movement. For the evap line I was planning on using the original feed line in my mazda.
Does anyone know where to find some nice automotive specific hard line that is meant for fuel? I know I can use cheaper parts from an hose supply or air conditioner store but I always feel a little better using automotive specific parts. The ones I saw also had a nice anodized finish. Also my past experience with hardware store rubber clamps isn't that great, they tend to crack over time. Anyone know where to get some nice ones?
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06-04-2005, 06:26 PM
#8
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I looked online at summit really quickly and found this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku
Any problems for long-term reliability with aluminum hard line?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku
Any problems for long-term reliability with aluminum hard line?
06-05-2005, 03:34 AM
#9
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Try this for clamps
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...1919clamps.php
These guys have a lot of good stuff....
http://www.chassisshop.com/
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...1919clamps.php
These guys have a lot of good stuff....
http://www.chassisshop.com/
06-06-2005, 08:54 PM
#10
I have the stock fuel lines from the donor motor I'm using all the way to the end of the fuel filter. Is there an easy method of measuring the fitting to see what size it is so I can buy the right fittings to that point?
06-09-2005, 02:15 PM
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braided line I like the braided line because of it flexibility and resistance to damage due to vibration, kinks, dents, rocks, heat etc. The abraison factor is not an issue if you route the hose properly and appropriately clamp it as you would do any fuel line.
06-25-2005, 09:49 PM
#14
Well said and it gives us more options and thoughts.
BTW I still use rubber hose and clamp on the low pressure side of things, but from Hi Psi side of pump your 100% correct.
BTW I still use rubber hose and clamp on the low pressure side of things, but from Hi Psi side of pump your 100% correct.
Originally Posted by LS1Sandrail
I don't believe running rubber line or even stainless overbraided line (Aeropquip) is the way to go. It is too vulnerable to rot and the stainless overbraided rubber hose can act like sandpaper and wear the hose where two hoses touch each other. It can also take out wires or anything else that is rounted next to it.
The best method is to run hard line, which is relatively cheap compared to rubber, and much safer. I buy annealed aluminum 3/8" line from the local air conditioning parts store and I can plumb a whole car for about $15.
Whatever you do, dont make connections to the tube with a hose clamp and a piece of rubber tube. You are asking for a fire. Buy or borrow a 37 degree "Parker" flaring tool and plumb it in AN fittings. You don't need the fancy anodized aluminum ones either- you can buy steel ones cheap at any hydraulics supply.
Put lots of isolation clamps as you install the line in the car. Use a cheap tubing bender to keep from restricting the flow area of the tube. The spring type tube benders don't work worth a damn - don't bother.
I hope I didn't throw a terd in the punchbowl in your thinking about this - just want to keep it safe.
Phil
The best method is to run hard line, which is relatively cheap compared to rubber, and much safer. I buy annealed aluminum 3/8" line from the local air conditioning parts store and I can plumb a whole car for about $15.
Whatever you do, dont make connections to the tube with a hose clamp and a piece of rubber tube. You are asking for a fire. Buy or borrow a 37 degree "Parker" flaring tool and plumb it in AN fittings. You don't need the fancy anodized aluminum ones either- you can buy steel ones cheap at any hydraulics supply.
Put lots of isolation clamps as you install the line in the car. Use a cheap tubing bender to keep from restricting the flow area of the tube. The spring type tube benders don't work worth a damn - don't bother.
I hope I didn't throw a terd in the punchbowl in your thinking about this - just want to keep it safe.
Phil
