My LS1/T56 swap into '68 Chevy C-10 stepside
11-01-2006, 10:03 AM
#142
Keisler makes the entire tailshaft replacement which already has a hole tapped out in the side and is built to use all of the proper gears and such - in this case, you just drain your tranny, take off the tailshaft, bolt on the new one - a direct bolt-on. I would call if you need more details. They may just sell the kit and you remove your tailshaft, drill/tap/bore out the hole and install it. You gotta decide if the work is worth your while or not.
S&P also sells the same getup called the "S&P manual speedometer tail housing kit". More info and pics are here: http://www.hotrodlane.cc/Buick%20Reg...ationalpg1.htm - I believe they also have a kit with the gears and other hardware so you can install it on your own.
Your best bet is to call either one of these places and ask questions. They are very eager to give out info.
The bottom line is this: If you really want to maintain a stock look and use stock gauges, you're going to pay out some cash. If you can settle for electric gauges, go buy a $50 speedo and use the stock wiring. I don't think you can get a conversion kit and convert (with cable and all other hardware) for less than $250. If you find one, please post back about it (I'm somewhat interested).
S&P also sells the same getup called the "S&P manual speedometer tail housing kit". More info and pics are here: http://www.hotrodlane.cc/Buick%20Reg...ationalpg1.htm - I believe they also have a kit with the gears and other hardware so you can install it on your own.
Your best bet is to call either one of these places and ask questions. They are very eager to give out info.
The bottom line is this: If you really want to maintain a stock look and use stock gauges, you're going to pay out some cash. If you can settle for electric gauges, go buy a $50 speedo and use the stock wiring. I don't think you can get a conversion kit and convert (with cable and all other hardware) for less than $250. If you find one, please post back about it (I'm somewhat interested).
Last edited by shifty`; 11-01-2006 at 10:07 AM. Reason: fixed link!!
11-01-2006, 10:04 AM
#143
Originally Posted by 68shortstep
have a link?
$295.
Believe me, there is no way to shortcut spending the cash.
This thing is a box, too. More crap to mount!! 
You're looking at $$$ if you want to maintain the old cable setup (I wish this wasn't the case...I'd be all over keeping my gauges for now!!)
If you find something cheaper than, say, $150, like I said, I'm interested!!
(As a point of note, also: I have heard that the electric-to-cable setup is inaccurate on telling speed. With the actual tailshaft conversion, it's all mechanical, so it's always going to be most accurate if installed properly.)
11-01-2006, 11:41 AM
#144
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yea, i was kinda instrested, but its easier and cheaper to get a electric one...
so that'll be the route i take
thanks for the link and info......i dont want a 4" box either
so that'll be the route i take
thanks for the link and info......i dont want a 4" box either
11-01-2006, 12:38 PM
#145
When you think about it ... seriously - regardless what harness you get, the wire is like, right there, a couple feet away from gauge cluster. Just gotta buy the gauge
(at least that's what I keep thinking about - I'm going speedo-less the first few weeks)
(at least that's what I keep thinking about - I'm going speedo-less the first few weeks
) 
11-02-2006, 02:40 PM
#149
Well, here's the deal -
Had to hang out with the woman and her family (flight to Miami for the weekend a couple weeks ago).
Had my parents in town for 10 days, so no time to work on the truck.
couple days of break, woman wanted to take some time to get away together for the weekend.
Good friend needed help replacing control arm bushings and rear subframe bushings on his E30 BMW, so I helped w/that for 2 days.
Had to gear up for huge halloween party with all of my neighbors (entire block party in one house). Had friends in town for that.
Then, travelling again for Thanksgiving (6 days down to FL), then gotta look at company xmas parties for my work and the woman's work (back to back days on a friday/saturday, that weekend is shot).
This weekend is the first weekend I get to work on the truck in a while.
I am supposed to get the fan shroud/mount for my dual LT1 fans in either today or tomorrow. Not sure when. If I do, I am telling everyone in my life to F* off for a couple of days while I try to get the fuel lines done, get the tank bolted the rest of the way in, finish up the wiring, etc.
I have all the supplies to fire up, I think. I just need to get time to install it all!
Once it's done, I'm working with somoene to fab up a prototype of the clutch bracket. I might consider manufacture and sale of the thing if it works out well. I gotta get that imported into AutoCAD or some similar software package so I can get him the plans.
Had to hang out with the woman and her family (flight to Miami for the weekend a couple weeks ago).
Had my parents in town for 10 days, so no time to work on the truck.
couple days of break, woman wanted to take some time to get away together for the weekend.
Good friend needed help replacing control arm bushings and rear subframe bushings on his E30 BMW, so I helped w/that for 2 days.
Had to gear up for huge halloween party with all of my neighbors (entire block party in one house). Had friends in town for that.
Then, travelling again for Thanksgiving (6 days down to FL), then gotta look at company xmas parties for my work and the woman's work (back to back days on a friday/saturday, that weekend is shot).
This weekend is the first weekend I get to work on the truck in a while.
I am supposed to get the fan shroud/mount for my dual LT1 fans in either today or tomorrow. Not sure when. If I do, I am telling everyone in my life to F* off for a couple of days while I try to get the fuel lines done, get the tank bolted the rest of the way in, finish up the wiring, etc.
I have all the supplies to fire up, I think. I just need to get time to install it all!
Once it's done, I'm working with somoene to fab up a prototype of the clutch bracket. I might consider manufacture and sale of the thing if it works out well. I gotta get that imported into AutoCAD or some similar software package so I can get him the plans.
11-06-2006, 10:14 PM
#150
My fan mounting shroud came in today and is now installed. Installation was a snap and the powder coating is hard as a freaking rock. Not bad for $129 (from www.gmcpauls.com)! Now I gotta sell my practically new LS1/LT1 fan setup, because they're so damned big they don't fit very well in this shroud. Need something a little slimmer.
Click the picture for a super large view. :c2:
Click the picture for a super large view. :c2:
Last edited by shifty`; 11-11-2006 at 05:23 PM.
11-10-2006, 09:42 AM
#151
I was considering using that shroud myself, it's a nice part.
One thing about the stock speedometer - of course, I didn't think about this problem with it until after I finished my swap - is that it only goes to 100. If you have a lead foot, trust me, this engine WILL get you to 100 in a hurry, and (at least compared to the Vortec-headed 350 I had before) it keeps on going in a big way. My old 350 would start losing steam around 90-95, and practically ran into a wall at what I estimate was 105. I imagine if I'd ever had a few miles to do it in, I might've been able to hit 110.
The LS1 is still pulling at approximately 130...which happens to be the point where I realize just how insane it is for a big old truck to be going that fast
One thing about the stock speedometer - of course, I didn't think about this problem with it until after I finished my swap - is that it only goes to 100. If you have a lead foot, trust me, this engine WILL get you to 100 in a hurry, and (at least compared to the Vortec-headed 350 I had before) it keeps on going in a big way. My old 350 would start losing steam around 90-95, and practically ran into a wall at what I estimate was 105. I imagine if I'd ever had a few miles to do it in, I might've been able to hit 110.
The LS1 is still pulling at approximately 130...which happens to be the point where I realize just how insane it is for a big old truck to be going that fast
11-10-2006, 11:18 AM
#152
Don't get me excited!!
My fans came in today. I'm going to get this fan setup done over the weekend and get my rad hoses in place also, then write up a FAQ for the truck forum with the elec fans pics, bump the post I made on cooling fan setups in this forum, and post some pics here.
I hope to have the cooling system done this weekend, and fill it up with coolant. My throttle cable setup is nearly done (using stock gas pedal setup w/Lokar LS1 cable cut to fit), and all that's left to fire up is relay and wire to the fuel pump, and the fuel lines, all of which will take less than 4 hours.
I also gotta rewire for the battery and possibly GET a battery. If so, I'm going red top or yellow top, I think.
I could be starting it up this weekend!! (I'm happier than a pig in sh#>!)
11-11-2006, 05:41 PM
#153
Ok, finished the fan install today, radiator and fans are in but not wired yet, lower radiator hose is on and I'm working on getting the upper hose fabbed (pain in the ***).
I wanted to share my throttle cable setup also, since this was something "daunting" for me when I thought about how the f@*# I was going to do it. It was actually a lot easier than I thought. Looks like I went out and bought a factory '02 Silverado cable for nothing.
Basic deal...
Went to Summit. Got one of the 36" LS1 throttle cables. I tried to buy one - they gave me one for a big block Chevy
Well, the BBC and LS1 throttle cables only have one end that's different (one has a carb end, the other has a throttle body end). Rather than drive 75 minutes to get a new one, I proceeded to measure and cut the braided sheath it to length (damn thing flared on me, I hate braided lines!).
I then picked up a replacement wire stop for the throttle end from the local auto parts store (HELP! part number 03336). I had to drill out the holes in the 6mm wire stop to (I believe) 1/16" to get the throttle cable to slip into it easily.
Everything fit well, but I had nowhere to mount the end of the Lokar cable that acts as an output to the pedal. I didn't have anything in my shop that looked like it would work. Went to Ace Hardware. I got a pack of "Corner Braces" (Inside L) that were 3" x ¾". Brought them home and hacked out the portions shown here next to the arrows in this picture:
http://www.satellitehead.com/images/...ttle%20015.jpg
The top hole has to be notched as shown to allow the Lokar cable to slide in and be tightened down. You'll need to drill a ¼" hole as shown by the middle arrow so it will mount to the intake where the old throttle cable retainer was. The entire bottom section needs to be cut off as shown. The end result is seen here:
http://www.satellitehead.com/images/...ttle%20019.jpg
Nice clean fit
Pedal has just enough push to get to WOT with no problems, and cable stays tight, pulling the pedal back into place. I will probably rework this or get a Lokar pedal later, but this will work for my needs now.
Some overall pics are attached showing all of the stuff I'm talking about, a bit smaller (just in case I end up moving the ones linked above later).
I wanted to share my throttle cable setup also, since this was something "daunting" for me when I thought about how the f@*# I was going to do it. It was actually a lot easier than I thought. Looks like I went out and bought a factory '02 Silverado cable for nothing.
Basic deal...
Went to Summit. Got one of the 36" LS1 throttle cables. I tried to buy one - they gave me one for a big block Chevy
Well, the BBC and LS1 throttle cables only have one end that's different (one has a carb end, the other has a throttle body end). Rather than drive 75 minutes to get a new one, I proceeded to measure and cut the braided sheath it to length (damn thing flared on me, I hate braided lines!). I then picked up a replacement wire stop for the throttle end from the local auto parts store (HELP! part number 03336). I had to drill out the holes in the 6mm wire stop to (I believe) 1/16" to get the throttle cable to slip into it easily.
Everything fit well, but I had nowhere to mount the end of the Lokar cable that acts as an output to the pedal. I didn't have anything in my shop that looked like it would work. Went to Ace Hardware. I got a pack of "Corner Braces" (Inside L) that were 3" x ¾". Brought them home and hacked out the portions shown here next to the arrows in this picture:
http://www.satellitehead.com/images/...ttle%20015.jpg
The top hole has to be notched as shown to allow the Lokar cable to slide in and be tightened down. You'll need to drill a ¼" hole as shown by the middle arrow so it will mount to the intake where the old throttle cable retainer was. The entire bottom section needs to be cut off as shown. The end result is seen here:
http://www.satellitehead.com/images/...ttle%20019.jpg
Nice clean fit
Pedal has just enough push to get to WOT with no problems, and cable stays tight, pulling the pedal back into place. I will probably rework this or get a Lokar pedal later, but this will work for my needs now.Some overall pics are attached showing all of the stuff I'm talking about, a bit smaller (just in case I end up moving the ones linked above later).
11-11-2006, 05:59 PM
#154
Okay, so that's not all the pics I have for today. I also got my cooling fan setup in place.
Uses:
* (2) Flex-A-Lite 12" fan, 10 blades, part number "212". This is not sold in stores - it's part of their "pro air electric fan" line and it is NOT listed at their website. Classic Heartbeat sells them for $76 each, which is incredibly reasonable. This is a heavy duty version of the Flex-A-Lite part number "112", it flows more air, costs about 10 bucks more.
* Various hardware from Ace : 6 self-tapping 8-18 x ¾ screws with 6 neoprene 3/8-ODwashers, 8 bolts (1" will work fine, I got 1¼" and they're a tad long) with 8 polylock/nylock/stop nuts (whatever you call them) and 16 washers, plus (8) ¼" grommets. Total cost: ~$10.
* Fan shroud from GMCPauls - custom fabbed piece that is made exclusively by Wes at ClassicHearbeat.com. Paid $129 for the shroud, powdercoated in "Silver vein". This is an incredibly nice piece.
The shroud is a direct boltup for a stock 3-core radiator. The shroud that ClassicHeartbeat makes is made specifically made to fit the fans, so no drilling of the shroud is required, just bolt the fans to the shroud, clamp the shroud in place on the radiator, drill pilot holes into the top and bottom rail of the radiator, then use the self tappers with the washers to finish the job.
I need to find out a crafty way to run the wiring - the 1¼" bolts might help in that regard - I might just use the excess bolt hanging out to mount wire clips for routing purposes
Uses:
* (2) Flex-A-Lite 12" fan, 10 blades, part number "212". This is not sold in stores - it's part of their "pro air electric fan" line and it is NOT listed at their website. Classic Heartbeat sells them for $76 each, which is incredibly reasonable. This is a heavy duty version of the Flex-A-Lite part number "112", it flows more air, costs about 10 bucks more.
* Various hardware from Ace : 6 self-tapping 8-18 x ¾ screws with 6 neoprene 3/8-ODwashers, 8 bolts (1" will work fine, I got 1¼" and they're a tad long) with 8 polylock/nylock/stop nuts (whatever you call them) and 16 washers, plus (8) ¼" grommets. Total cost: ~$10.
* Fan shroud from GMCPauls - custom fabbed piece that is made exclusively by Wes at ClassicHearbeat.com. Paid $129 for the shroud, powdercoated in "Silver vein". This is an incredibly nice piece.
The shroud is a direct boltup for a stock 3-core radiator. The shroud that ClassicHeartbeat makes is made specifically made to fit the fans, so no drilling of the shroud is required, just bolt the fans to the shroud, clamp the shroud in place on the radiator, drill pilot holes into the top and bottom rail of the radiator, then use the self tappers with the washers to finish the job.
I need to find out a crafty way to run the wiring - the 1¼" bolts might help in that regard - I might just use the excess bolt hanging out to mount wire clips for routing purposes
11-18-2006, 05:10 PM
#155
Got my water pump drilled and tapped the steam line off of it just now.
Big pics in the gallery, click on an image here: http://www.satellitehead.com/gallery...lbum=9&pos=153
Otherwise, smaller pics are attached.
Big pics in the gallery, click on an image here: http://www.satellitehead.com/gallery...lbum=9&pos=153
Otherwise, smaller pics are attached.
11-18-2006, 11:18 PM
#157
doubtful. waiting on the stainless radiator hoses. startup could technically be done if i cobbled together some hoses and finished the fuel lines and fixed the battery cables (and bought a battery), which is 2-3 hours work or so, but I'm waiting on a new Flaming River column (don't have one right now) and the "final" prototype clutch bracket isn't here yet, so .... couldn't drive if i wanted to.
11-19-2006, 10:18 AM
#158
Originally Posted by shifty`
S&P also sells the same getup called the "S&P manual speedometer tail housing kit". More info and pics are here: http://www.hotrodlane.cc/Buick%20Reg...ationalpg1.htm - I believe they also have a kit with the gears and other hardware so you can install it on your own.
Page 81, letters H, I and J (Page "8 of 18" in Adboe Acrobat).
$475 for the various tailshaft housings, and it requires a core.
11-21-2006, 11:43 AM
#159
Wow, I really like how that came out - I don't think anyone had tried that when I did my swap, because I probably would've gone that route instead. Of course, what I've got works so I'm not going to re-engineer that unless I get some sort of failure or other repair that requires me to dig deep in there.
