My LS1/T56 swap into '68 Chevy C-10 stepside
11-27-2006, 11:53 AM
#161
Originally Posted by stealth71
What did you tap the water pump to (thread size)?
Looking good. Keep up the work.
Looking good. Keep up the work.
All info is here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....5&postcount=49
If not, go to the FAQ post, pg 3 (post #41) and I left more info there.
Hope this helps, if not, feel free to ask more ??'s
11-29-2006, 10:46 AM
#163
Hey Shifty, just wondering if where you tapped the steam line into is going to work out. I know others have done this into their water pump, but isn't where you tapped it in the pressure side of the pump rather than the suction? Now I'm wondering if I did mine incorrectly 
11-29-2006, 12:15 PM
#164
I believe the intake of the water pump is on the low side of the block (coming from low passenger side) and the output (return) is on the high side of the pump, where I drilled.
I honestly question if it really matters. I have heard so much conflicting information on here about the steam line it's, like, seriously, ignorantly asinine. Some people say the steam line MUST vent higher than the steam line exit tube, some say you can run it from a lower point (and some people are doing just that). If you click the link to the Hybrid FAQ and look at post #20, someone is already doing what I've done without any problems at all. Other people say you can run it from the heater lines (whether heater supply or heater return, I have no idea). Other people say you can't tap from the petcock provision. I think I've heard it all at this point.
All in all, most people I have seen are tapping off the upper rad hose to get the steam line ran. So, this would suggest that the way I've done it should be what everyone else is doing.
I honestly question if it really matters. I have heard so much conflicting information on here about the steam line it's, like, seriously, ignorantly asinine. Some people say the steam line MUST vent higher than the steam line exit tube, some say you can run it from a lower point (and some people are doing just that). If you click the link to the Hybrid FAQ and look at post #20, someone is already doing what I've done without any problems at all. Other people say you can run it from the heater lines (whether heater supply or heater return, I have no idea). Other people say you can't tap from the petcock provision. I think I've heard it all at this point.
All in all, most people I have seen are tapping off the upper rad hose to get the steam line ran. So, this would suggest that the way I've done it should be what everyone else is doing.
11-29-2006, 12:55 PM
#165
Originally Posted by shifty`
I honestly question if it really matters. I have heard so much conflicting information on here about the steam line it's, like, seriously, ignorantly asinine.
11-29-2006, 02:17 PM
#166
Originally Posted by 350SS
I think that's taking it a bit far
I know, I know, I have a flair for the dramatic, but ... I am totally serious! I have heard several conflicting stories (as you seem to have as well) about that line while trying to research how to set mine up. One thread had several people saying completely conflicting stuff, and nobody would clarify. I finally just gave up. I'm glad I saw Stu Cool's post, and I got more info from him and then did a writeup.
Originally Posted by 350SS
but I was just hoping to clairify the situation.... Although with regards to whether it matters, I doubt that having a steam pocket around your combustion chamber is an ideal situation during a WOT run.
12-06-2006, 03:02 PM
#167
Ok, in retrospect, I just noticed CPP's tubular crossmember for trannies in the 60-72 pickups (part# CP9427). In retrospect, the smartest thing I could have done to get a new tranny xmember between the rails WITHOUT any sanding/grinding and without removing the cab, would have been to use CPP's part rather than ECE's - it's better thought-out for ease of install. It only requires bolts in the bottom of the framerail to go in and gives excellent clearance.
03-22-2007, 11:54 AM
#169
11 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: victoria canada.
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just thought I would chime in. My first swap was and LS1 into my 69 GMC. I used the factory 98 Camaro rad and fans and the steam line runs to the passenger side of the rad about 3/4 of the way up. This would be the suction side of the rad.
yesterday I just completed a 5.3L swap into my Dads 67, and I used his original rad and tapped into the heater hose that exits closest to the water pump suction hose, but I "T" into the hose at about the height of the throttle body. I'll post up if this doesn't work well, but in two days of driving the temp has stayed at 190F.
yesterday I just completed a 5.3L swap into my Dads 67, and I used his original rad and tapped into the heater hose that exits closest to the water pump suction hose, but I "T" into the hose at about the height of the throttle body. I'll post up if this doesn't work well, but in two days of driving the temp has stayed at 190F.
03-23-2007, 04:31 PM
#170
I'm still dorking around with my gas tank - ever since I broke one of those Tanks, inc. fuel pump assembly nipples, I've had zero forward movement. I'm literally just fuel lines and some minor wiring away from having the thing complete. I just literally am not having time to work on it right now.
03-23-2007, 10:03 PM
#172
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: tulsa OK
Posts: 439
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
shifty, just a FYI on your fuel tank (since its just like mine) you're gonna need to put in 3 gallons before your FP starts to pump gas.... also the sender starts to read at about 3 gallons too....
04-09-2007, 03:27 PM
#174
Fuel lines are done. Crappy pic from my Blackberry attached. Radiator hoses complete, coolant is filled up inside the block, put 1tsp Marvell mystery oil in each cylinder, reinstalled spark plugs, installed Optima Red Top (34/78 model). Put 5gals of gas in the tank.
Had to remove passenger side manifold to rewire the positive battery line, still workin on that. Once that is done, I'm filling the radiator with fluid, the manifold goes back on, I run five temporary wires and fire it up! I'm out of town this weekend, so unless I can get things done while rushing around this week, it's going to wait till next weekend.
Had to remove passenger side manifold to rewire the positive battery line, still workin on that. Once that is done, I'm filling the radiator with fluid, the manifold goes back on, I run five temporary wires and fire it up! I'm out of town this weekend, so unless I can get things done while rushing around this week, it's going to wait till next weekend.
04-09-2007, 07:16 PM
#176
Thanks, I'm not happy with the fitment of the 'Vette FPR/filter on the rear wall of the bed, so eventually I guess I might make a proper bracket for it. I didn't want to tack it to the rear ECE xmember, I wanted to be able to change it at will.
We'll see. I am seriously considering throwing away the $100 I spent on it and using a totally separate FPR and filter - something aftermarket, adjustable bypass regulator + inline filter with AN -6 male in/out, if it exists....
We'll see. I am seriously considering throwing away the $100 I spent on it and using a totally separate FPR and filter - something aftermarket, adjustable bypass regulator + inline filter with AN -6 male in/out, if it exists....
04-11-2007, 12:41 PM
#177
I found a fuse/relay wiring kit from Custom Performance - it at their website, in the wiring kits section.
Pic of the harness attached (will have more pics after I figure out where and how I will install it).
Pic of the harness attached (will have more pics after I figure out where and how I will install it).
Last edited by shifty`; 04-18-2007 at 10:05 PM.
04-16-2007, 07:50 AM
#178
I plan on getting pics to show the fuel system soon and the wiring of everything, and post a video of first startup if all goes well tonight. Big progress in the last two weeks (read: two real half days of getting to work on it)
So, just for the sake of updating, since this horse feels pretty dead lately....
Worked on the truck last night - was working on wiring up the battery cables and a friend of mine that was helping managed to snap the positive stud off the starter solenoid, so I had to drop $140 on a new starter, then drop the old one and put a new starter in because you apparently can't replace the OEM stud on the starter and no parts stores open at 6pm on Sunday sold the solenoid by itself.
After that debacle was over with, I tightened all of my fuel line fittings, ran my sending unit and fuel pump power lines, put power to the fuel pump to pressurize the system and check for leaks, and only found one on the supply side of the 'Vette FPR/filter, tightened the fittings down and I think it's gone now. Reading 50psi strong on the rail, so fuel system is FINITO for the most part.
I still need to re-bolt the passenger side manifold up, attach the plug wires over there, put in the dipstick, fill up the filter with oil, mount it, then fill up the rest of the engine w/oil.
I put about a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery oil into each cylinder last week to let it soak and free up the rings, just in case, since the engine hasn't been fired in a good 18-24 months.
With a bit of confidence and my fingers crossed, I attached the purple starter wire, attached the positive battery cable and gave a little half-second bump on the ignition, she turned right over with no pissing or moaning at all, so I'm feeling pretty confident that we're ready for liftoff!
After having success with that, feeling pretty good about tonight finally being the night the truck comes to life. Still won't be able to drive if it does, still have a considerable amount of work to do to clean things up enough to drive, but ... it feels good to finally make progress and find out whether or not the engine is good to go!
So, just for the sake of updating, since this horse feels pretty dead lately....
Worked on the truck last night - was working on wiring up the battery cables and a friend of mine that was helping managed to snap the positive stud off the starter solenoid, so I had to drop $140 on a new starter, then drop the old one and put a new starter in because you apparently can't replace the OEM stud on the starter and no parts stores open at 6pm on Sunday sold the solenoid by itself.
After that debacle was over with, I tightened all of my fuel line fittings, ran my sending unit and fuel pump power lines, put power to the fuel pump to pressurize the system and check for leaks, and only found one on the supply side of the 'Vette FPR/filter, tightened the fittings down and I think it's gone now. Reading 50psi strong on the rail, so fuel system is FINITO for the most part.
I still need to re-bolt the passenger side manifold up, attach the plug wires over there, put in the dipstick, fill up the filter with oil, mount it, then fill up the rest of the engine w/oil.
I put about a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery oil into each cylinder last week to let it soak and free up the rings, just in case, since the engine hasn't been fired in a good 18-24 months.
With a bit of confidence and my fingers crossed, I attached the purple starter wire, attached the positive battery cable and gave a little half-second bump on the ignition, she turned right over with no pissing or moaning at all, so I'm feeling pretty confident that we're ready for liftoff!
After having success with that, feeling pretty good about tonight finally being the night the truck comes to life. Still won't be able to drive if it does, still have a considerable amount of work to do to clean things up enough to drive, but ... it feels good to finally make progress and find out whether or not the engine is good to go!
