My LS1/T56 swap into '68 Chevy C-10 stepside
05-25-2006, 02:56 PM
#121
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Originally Posted by IOwnCalculus
Any updates? I just want to see how other swaps like this turn out, now that mine's past the one-year-old mark 
It was a bad *** truck build, that 6.0 made it scream...
Dave
05-25-2006, 06:27 PM
#122
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Originally Posted by custom 68
Man I thought you got rearended and they totaled it and you were going to build a car or something.
It was a bad *** truck build, that 6.0 made it scream...
Dave
It was a bad *** truck build, that 6.0 made it scream...
Dave
05-26-2006, 09:57 AM
#123
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I guess I thought they were the same person just different screen names on the different sites I visit? Boy I may really be confused, I have PMed both at times.
Wow Well then I would like to know more about his build...
Dave
ok I did some searching and I was wrong I was thinking about firstgen. I found his build so now I think I am straight.
Wow Well then I would like to know more about his build...
Dave
ok I did some searching and I was wrong I was thinking about firstgen. I found his build so now I think I am straight.
05-27-2006, 05:32 PM
#124
Originally Posted by 68shortstep
x2.......BTW IOwnCalculus hows yours doin?
At least with that little cab, 2/80 works great...a LOT better than my Volvo's 2/80, that thing is an oven even with tint! Of course, then I start considering saving up for a house, and eventually replacing the Volvo with an '04 GTO with a six-speed...yeah Other than that, it's fine. Haven't put as many miles on it as I'd like thanks to gas prices being what they are...if I'm just slogging to work and back, makes more sense to drive something that doesn't get somewhere between 8 and 15MPG. Sure, it's capable of more, but the side effect of driving four bangers the rest of the week means I romp on the truck...
My truck has definitely not been rear-ended or wrecked in any other way
07-11-2006, 08:08 PM
#125
Originally Posted by IOwnCalculus
Any updates? I just want to see how other swaps like this turn out, now that mine's past the one-year-old mark
I have not had an ounce of time to work on the truck and any spare time on vacation has gone to modding out my '99.5 VW GTi, which is a blast to drive also
I ordered the wrong radiator - I got a '95 Iroc/Camaro radiator and shoulda got an Escalade radiator or something. I still need to plumb the cooling, bolt down the front clip, finish some wiring (the engine wiring is done), install the hydraulic clutch piston, bend my fuel lines and finish plumbing the fuel from tank to the fuel line, then from the fuel rail to the fuel line.
I might come back and post some updates when I've made some decent progress.
Thanks for the words of encouragement guys. Thanks to everyone that helped up to this point. I can't wait to fire it up and drive it up to Keisler in person to have the new tailshaft put on the tranny
Last edited by shifty`; 09-27-2006 at 12:46 AM.
08-18-2006, 09:13 PM
#126
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I am glad to see your install> I have a 68 SWB that I purchased in pieces awhile back and I have a 2000 LS-1 motor and tranny to install. I am interested in you r trials and tribulations on this project. I drove a 68 Chevy in Mena, Ark that S&P had put together and the response of these motors in a truck like this is very impressive. Thanks for the forum...
09-27-2006, 12:55 AM
#127
Finally got time to work on the project again. Night before last I bolted down the front end (except 2 radiator core support mounts), got my fuel tank flanges drilled out and prepped, bolted in the cowl, realligned the front end, bolted in the battery box, removed the stock regulator and alternator wiring, cleaned up all the harnesses, removed the windshield washer resevoir and bracket (putting in a new one later).
I ordered my fuel line fittings with some help from user: Schitzo and user: 67RSCamaroVette. Gotta bend the aluminum lines I got and take my (frustrating, no doubt) whack at bending the line soon. Want to get the fuel lines in sooner than later.
Meanwhile, for the hydraulic clutch bracket - some will laugh at this one - but I went to the S&P website, downloaded hte picture from the FAQ, and blew that bastard up until the 6 5/8" inch lines measured out correctly. I figured where the cylinder would be best mounted locationwise, then traced my firewall onto some notebook paper, printed out the mount from S&P, cut it out, then laid it against my firewall tracing...with minor cutting I have a great bracket that uses the stock holes, and went bent where they bend their stock part for the camaro, the hydraulic cylinder goes right through the firewall where I marked it (stroke of luck?). If the bracket works out, I will post picture here for future reference. That thing cost me months and months of grief having nightmares about making it.
Hope to post more within the next week. need to talk to Schram auto about a radiator, I also have the S&P fuel line parts on the way, all of my emissons blockoff plates for the stock headers, some CAT replacements, front clip mounting bolts and various other stuff on the way right now. I think I have everything to get the car running on the way except the radiator hoses and gasoline (thank goodness prices dropped!)
I ordered my fuel line fittings with some help from user: Schitzo and user: 67RSCamaroVette. Gotta bend the aluminum lines I got and take my (frustrating, no doubt) whack at bending the line soon. Want to get the fuel lines in sooner than later.
Meanwhile, for the hydraulic clutch bracket - some will laugh at this one - but I went to the S&P website, downloaded hte picture from the FAQ, and blew that bastard up until the 6 5/8" inch lines measured out correctly. I figured where the cylinder would be best mounted locationwise, then traced my firewall onto some notebook paper, printed out the mount from S&P, cut it out, then laid it against my firewall tracing...with minor cutting I have a great bracket that uses the stock holes, and went bent where they bend their stock part for the camaro, the hydraulic cylinder goes right through the firewall where I marked it (stroke of luck?). If the bracket works out, I will post picture here for future reference. That thing cost me months and months of grief having nightmares about making it.
Hope to post more within the next week. need to talk to Schram auto about a radiator, I also have the S&P fuel line parts on the way, all of my emissons blockoff plates for the stock headers, some CAT replacements, front clip mounting bolts and various other stuff on the way right now. I think I have everything to get the car running on the way except the radiator hoses and gasoline (thank goodness prices dropped!)
Last edited by shifty`; 09-27-2006 at 01:09 AM.
09-27-2006, 07:03 AM
#128
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Shifty,
I would like to see a pic of your bracket or atleast your mock up. That is where I am at right now with mine and am having some trouble. I bought the S&P bracket and it wouldn't work, the steering column and pedal arrangement are different between the trucks and the cars (I checked this against my SS396 Chevelle)
I'm will befabbing my own bracket as well. I made a template and am going to have it cut out of 1/4" plate hopefully by the end of the week to see how it works. Mine will bolt behind the master cylinder like the S&P one does but it has to drop down and go towards the passenger side. This puts it real close to the headers in this area.
I would like to see a pic of your bracket or atleast your mock up. That is where I am at right now with mine and am having some trouble. I bought the S&P bracket and it wouldn't work, the steering column and pedal arrangement are different between the trucks and the cars (I checked this against my SS396 Chevelle)
I'm will befabbing my own bracket as well. I made a template and am going to have it cut out of 1/4" plate hopefully by the end of the week to see how it works. Mine will bolt behind the master cylinder like the S&P one does but it has to drop down and go towards the passenger side. This puts it real close to the headers in this area.
09-27-2006, 12:00 PM
#129
Mine is like an upside down "L". It uses the two stock bolts above the teardrop shaped column hold and will come through the firewall. If you need to see where I am coming through, check this threaD:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ghlight=clutch
There is a picture of where I am punching through. There will be no interference with the inner fender on my truck with this setup and in the picture you can see where I will tap into the pedal (the pedal and hole are in the right hand side of the pic!)
Now, to locate this spot on the inside of the firewall, you would need to look for the spot welds in relation to the bolts. See where I put the red circle? That ridge right there is spotwelded on either side and those spotwelds should show up on the firewall unless you smoothed it.
I can take a picture of the fabbed bracket and setup when I get home!
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ghlight=clutch
There is a picture of where I am punching through. There will be no interference with the inner fender on my truck with this setup and in the picture you can see where I will tap into the pedal (the pedal and hole are in the right hand side of the pic!)
Now, to locate this spot on the inside of the firewall, you would need to look for the spot welds in relation to the bolts. See where I put the red circle? That ridge right there is spotwelded on either side and those spotwelds should show up on the firewall unless you smoothed it.
I can take a picture of the fabbed bracket and setup when I get home!
09-27-2006, 07:48 PM
#130
Ok, here are pictures of my bracket and everything. Here are the larger pictures, since smaller ones are attached to this post for prsoperity of others a year or two from now
http://www.satellitehead.com/gallery...lbum=9&page=11
First, I started by blowing up the S&P bracket to a point where the measurements were accurate on printed paper. I used this modified JPEG (it's blurry)
I'll narrate some pictures:
First below is a picture of the inside of the firewall where I plan to come through. I think I'll be knocking out a hole with a 1 1/4" Greenlee knockout punch, try to get it as centered as possible there, reinforce it with some plating. This hole will put the hydraulic cylinder rod about 1" or less from the left-hand side of the clutch pedal (as you face it), near the existing factory hole.
Second picture below is the engine side of the firewall - I traced it out on paper.the two small circles with lines are existing holes for the column bracket or something. The single dot is a screw for a bracket in the cab to hole up the column (it protrudes). The X (all three) are where I wanted to come through with the cylinder rod. Column is the semi-circle as marked.
Third picture below shows the bracket I modified. Pink holes are the two holes for the clumn bracket. Blue holes are ones I am conteplating making for support. The hole-punch is that screw coming from inside the cab. Orange are the pre-marked holes for the hydraulic cylinder. Oval is for that cylinder to go through.
Fourth picture shows how the two line up together. I cannot 100% tell that it's perfectly horizontal, but I think you can control a lot of the directionality of the rod coming through the firewall based on how you bend up the bracket. I will probably better refine this template (I am only posting this for your benefit and ideas!!)
Last picture is the money shot. This is the template actually mocked up against the inside (engine side) of my firewall. Notice the green "X" in the oval of the template - that is the spot I originally marked as the "I want it to go here!" spot - when the paper is bent to ~20-25º along the word "HOLE", the rod stabs within 1/4" of that X!! If you look again at the first picture for a black dot on a ridge to see the spot opposite the "X" inside the cab.
IGNORE ANY OTHER MARKINGS YOU SEE on the sheet! I kept the S&P markings on it.
I had posted in one of your other threads asking for more info on your griffin radiator (core size, no. of cores, etc.) and would love to hear from you on that one. I have alread bought the "not the best" radiator once ... don't want to do that again.
http://www.satellitehead.com/gallery...lbum=9&page=11
First, I started by blowing up the S&P bracket to a point where the measurements were accurate on printed paper. I used this modified JPEG (it's blurry)
I'll narrate some pictures:
First below is a picture of the inside of the firewall where I plan to come through. I think I'll be knocking out a hole with a 1 1/4" Greenlee knockout punch, try to get it as centered as possible there, reinforce it with some plating. This hole will put the hydraulic cylinder rod about 1" or less from the left-hand side of the clutch pedal (as you face it), near the existing factory hole.
Second picture below is the engine side of the firewall - I traced it out on paper.the two small circles with lines are existing holes for the column bracket or something. The single dot is a screw for a bracket in the cab to hole up the column (it protrudes). The X (all three
) are where I wanted to come through with the cylinder rod. Column is the semi-circle as marked.Third picture below shows the bracket I modified. Pink holes are the two holes for the clumn bracket. Blue holes are ones I am conteplating making for support. The hole-punch is that screw coming from inside the cab. Orange are the pre-marked holes for the hydraulic cylinder. Oval is for that cylinder to go through.
Fourth picture shows how the two line up together. I cannot 100% tell that it's perfectly horizontal, but I think you can control a lot of the directionality of the rod coming through the firewall based on how you bend up the bracket. I will probably better refine this template (I am only posting this for your benefit and ideas!!)
Last picture is the money shot. This is the template actually mocked up against the inside (engine side) of my firewall. Notice the green "X" in the oval of the template - that is the spot I originally marked as the "I want it to go here!" spot - when the paper is bent to ~20-25º along the word "HOLE", the rod stabs within 1/4" of that X!!
If you look again at the first picture for a black dot on a ridge to see the spot opposite the "X" inside the cab.IGNORE ANY OTHER MARKINGS YOU SEE on the sheet! I kept the S&P markings on it.
I had posted in one of your other threads asking for more info on your griffin radiator (core size, no. of cores, etc.) and would love to hear from you on that one. I have alread bought the "not the best" radiator once ... don't want to do that again.
09-29-2006, 11:23 AM
#131
Okay, just want to archive what is going on with my fuel lines...
I have never dorked around with fuel lines before, so ... I'm trying to adapt everything in my system to -6 AN fittings. This whole thing was confusing as hell to me, so I'm just gonna type everything I ran into.
Basically, I am using the popular '99 Corvette pressure regulator/fuel filter (GM P/N 10299146). I bought 25' of aluminum 3/8" hard line from Summit for $20. I was planning on running Tank->3' braided lines->regulator/filter->hard aluminum line to engine bay->braided line to rails. The toughest part of all this was, surpisingly, trying to find any information on the stupid adapters, and then finding in-stock parts anywhere. In fact, the only part i'm waiting on is the adapter for my fuel rail, which is backordered everywhere!
Since there seems to be no central location for info on adapting to using the Vette regulator, I'm going to post this chunk - there are three basic options:
See this post with regard to the '99 Vette fuel pressure regulator/filter:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....5&postcount=64
---------
Option #1: Uses Swagelok and Dorman adapters. cost: ~$50-60
Parts needed:
(3) $8 Swagelok SS-600-6-6AN (3/8" compression to -6 AN)
(1) $12 Swagelock SS-500-R-6 (5/16" compression to 3/8" pipe)
(1) $13 Dorman DOR-800-155 fuel line adapter (LINK TO PART)
(PS - visit www.swagelok.com to find a dealer near you - very easy to deal with!)
Breakdown: 1 of the SS-600-6-AN's will get coupled with the Dorman piece. Another one goes on the supply-from-tank-to-filter line. The last one gets coupled with the SS-500-R-6 for the return-to-tank line. Now, just to clarify: Using this method, on the left-hand side of that filter, there is a 5/16 nipple and a 3/8 nipple. Several people make 3/8 compression fit to -6 AN adapters, but I cannot find a vendor anywhere that makes a stainless steel 5/16 compression to -6 AN adapter, so it's necessary to use the SS-500-R-6 which is a 5/6 compression to 3/8 tubing adapter, then use the additional compression fitting to adapt (thanks to Schitzo for explaining this). The Dorman adapter plugs into the female end of the filter/regulator and you can either use a flare/compression fit on the other end or just adapt out the end that comes with it.
---------
Option #2: Uses S&P parts, but the part you need is only a dollar more and it uses less fittings and time. Cost: ~$50-60
Parts needed:
(2) $8 Swagelok SS-600-6-6AN (3/8" compression to -6 AN)
(1) $12 Swagelock SS-500-R-6 (5/16" compression to 3/8" pipe)
(1) $22 S&P '99 Vette Fuel filter/regulator exit adapter (adapts to -6 AN)
Breakdown: The $22 S&P unit has no part number I can find associated with it - it's not on my receipt. Basically this piece is the Dorman unit with a flared end that has a female coupler with an Eaton -6AN male adapter screwed into it. S&P sells this part at a reasonable price (go figure), and you're looking at $1 more than the Dorman+Swagelok method above, with no additional work required on your part (excludes shipping cost).
---------
Option #3: Uses a mix of Russell and S&P adapters and should be roughly the same cost as the first option above. Cost: ~$60
Breakdown:
See https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ghlight=640850
The part number for the 3/8 fitting (2 required) is RUS-640850
For the 5/16 fitting (1 required) the number is RUS-640860
I would pick up the S&P adapter for the filter-to-rail side.
---------
Option #4: Uses all S&P stuff (www.hotrodlane.cc). Cost: ~$110
You are lazy and just don't want to deal with any of it - or you want the fewest adapters possible (less adapters = less chance for leaks).
Breakdown: call S&P and order their three adapter pieces for the Vette fuel regulator and they'll give it to you for around $101 shipped. Just tell them you need the 3-piece adapter kit for the 99 Vette Fuel pressure regulator/filter and they'll ship it out.
This is the method I used, but ... I might return the two compression fittings from S&P and go Swagelok instead.
---------------------------
Last, but not least, you will need to have a quick-disconnect fitting for your fuel rail itself. For the stock F-body LS1 (one line from rail to regulator), this is only one fitting and Russell makes it (sold by Summit if you have one nearby, or Nasty Nate from LS1tech sells them also, he's great to deal with!). The Russell part number is RUS-640850 (3/8 pipe to either 3/8 NPT or -6 AN, I'm not sure). The part is shown here: http://www.russellperformance.com/au...uel-3-27.shtml
It retails for around $20 if I remember right.
I have never dorked around with fuel lines before, so ... I'm trying to adapt everything in my system to -6 AN fittings. This whole thing was confusing as hell to me, so I'm just gonna type everything I ran into.
Basically, I am using the popular '99 Corvette pressure regulator/fuel filter (GM P/N 10299146). I bought 25' of aluminum 3/8" hard line from Summit for $20. I was planning on running Tank->3' braided lines->regulator/filter->hard aluminum line to engine bay->braided line to rails. The toughest part of all this was, surpisingly, trying to find any information on the stupid adapters, and then finding in-stock parts anywhere. In fact, the only part i'm waiting on is the adapter for my fuel rail, which is backordered everywhere!
Since there seems to be no central location for info on adapting to using the Vette regulator, I'm going to post this chunk - there are three basic options:
See this post with regard to the '99 Vette fuel pressure regulator/filter:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....5&postcount=64
---------
Option #1: Uses Swagelok and Dorman adapters. cost: ~$50-60
Parts needed:
(3) $8 Swagelok SS-600-6-6AN (3/8" compression to -6 AN)
(1) $12 Swagelock SS-500-R-6 (5/16" compression to 3/8" pipe)
(1) $13 Dorman DOR-800-155 fuel line adapter (LINK TO PART)
(PS - visit www.swagelok.com to find a dealer near you - very easy to deal with!)
Breakdown: 1 of the SS-600-6-AN's will get coupled with the Dorman piece. Another one goes on the supply-from-tank-to-filter line. The last one gets coupled with the SS-500-R-6 for the return-to-tank line. Now, just to clarify: Using this method, on the left-hand side of that filter, there is a 5/16 nipple and a 3/8 nipple. Several people make 3/8 compression fit to -6 AN adapters, but I cannot find a vendor anywhere that makes a stainless steel 5/16 compression to -6 AN adapter, so it's necessary to use the SS-500-R-6 which is a 5/6 compression to 3/8 tubing adapter, then use the additional compression fitting to adapt (thanks to Schitzo for explaining this). The Dorman adapter plugs into the female end of the filter/regulator and you can either use a flare/compression fit on the other end or just adapt out the end that comes with it.
---------
Option #2: Uses S&P parts, but the part you need is only a dollar more and it uses less fittings and time. Cost: ~$50-60
Parts needed:
(2) $8 Swagelok SS-600-6-6AN (3/8" compression to -6 AN)
(1) $12 Swagelock SS-500-R-6 (5/16" compression to 3/8" pipe)
(1) $22 S&P '99 Vette Fuel filter/regulator exit adapter (adapts to -6 AN)
Breakdown: The $22 S&P unit has no part number I can find associated with it - it's not on my receipt. Basically this piece is the Dorman unit with a flared end that has a female coupler with an Eaton -6AN male adapter screwed into it. S&P sells this part at a reasonable price (go figure), and you're looking at $1 more than the Dorman+Swagelok method above, with no additional work required on your part (excludes shipping cost).
---------
Option #3: Uses a mix of Russell and S&P adapters and should be roughly the same cost as the first option above. Cost: ~$60
Breakdown:
See https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ghlight=640850
The part number for the 3/8 fitting (2 required) is RUS-640850
For the 5/16 fitting (1 required) the number is RUS-640860
I would pick up the S&P adapter for the filter-to-rail side.
---------
Option #4: Uses all S&P stuff (www.hotrodlane.cc). Cost: ~$110
You are lazy and just don't want to deal with any of it - or you want the fewest adapters possible (less adapters = less chance for leaks).
Breakdown: call S&P and order their three adapter pieces for the Vette fuel regulator and they'll give it to you for around $101 shipped. Just tell them you need the 3-piece adapter kit for the 99 Vette Fuel pressure regulator/filter and they'll ship it out.
This is the method I used, but ... I might return the two compression fittings from S&P and go Swagelok instead.
---------------------------
Last, but not least, you will need to have a quick-disconnect fitting for your fuel rail itself. For the stock F-body LS1 (one line from rail to regulator), this is only one fitting and Russell makes it (sold by Summit if you have one nearby, or Nasty Nate from LS1tech sells them also, he's great to deal with!). The Russell part number is RUS-640850 (3/8 pipe to either 3/8 NPT or -6 AN, I'm not sure). The part is shown here: http://www.russellperformance.com/au...uel-3-27.shtml
It retails for around $20 if I remember right.
10-06-2006, 04:30 PM
#132
Well, another delay.
Got in the '05 Yukon radiator, my first purchase from Schram's. Came underpacked, I opened the package and UPS guy left before I could let him know about the damage to the bottom of the core.
So, now I have this great police package radiator that I can't use.
I hate UPS. This is the third time they have damaged something via ground three months. I am so glad I ship DHL now.
Got in the '05 Yukon radiator, my first purchase from Schram's. Came underpacked, I opened the package and UPS guy left before I could let him know about the damage to the bottom of the core.
So, now I have this great police package radiator that I can't use.
I hate UPS. This is the third time they have damaged something via ground three months. I am so glad I ship DHL now.
10-06-2006, 05:42 PM
#133
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thats always a head ache..... post some more current pics.... i wanna see what she looks like with the front clip installed.... what did you do for your intake duct?
10-08-2006, 10:26 PM
#135
Ok, as promised, I took a few pics and here they are, posted:
http://www.satellitehead.com/gallery...lbum=9&page=11
Starting with the 8th picture. Shows my intake install (probably need to add a 3.5" tube extension to get the filter over by the horn), fuel pressure gauge install and connector, the template I'm using to cover my old air/heater core/blower box, the EGR/AIR caps I'm using on my stock '98 manifolds and that's about it.
I really can't think of any of the other progress I can take photos of :\
I am curious what that one connector is though - it has a purple, a red/blk and a grey wire going into it. It comes out nearest the passenger side of the engine. No clue what it plugs into.
http://www.satellitehead.com/gallery...lbum=9&page=11
Starting with the 8th picture. Shows my intake install (probably need to add a 3.5" tube extension to get the filter over by the horn), fuel pressure gauge install and connector, the template I'm using to cover my old air/heater core/blower box, the EGR/AIR caps I'm using on my stock '98 manifolds and that's about it.
I really can't think of any of the other progress I can take photos of :\
I am curious what that one connector is though - it has a purple, a red/blk and a grey wire going into it. It comes out nearest the passenger side of the engine. No clue what it plugs into.
10-12-2006, 08:19 PM
#136
Got some more parts today. Got my final radiator. Picked up a stock 3-core (3-row?) radiator from 1800radiators.com - their part number is 366SP. Comes with tranny cooler, which I don't need right now, but ... whatever Cost: $170 even. Uses same radiator brackets that the 2-core does (4-core uses larger ones) and I will need to move the lower saddle/bracket closer to the battery box to get it to fit. From what I gather, you just remove the rubber insert, drill out a rivent and re-rivet it where it needs to go. Should be fun to figure out.
I also picked up the nipple to thread into the hole I'm drill out in my water pump for the steam vent (see the FAQ at top of this forum, pg. 2). Got this at Advance Auto parts, along with radiator hoses for an '02 Sierra/Silverado 1500/5.3L and a universal flex hose 13"/2.75", I think.
Advance part numbers:
1/8-NPT to 3/8 hose fitting: 43275
Lower (short) radiator hose: 1313
Upper radiator hose: E71989
I picked up an 18# radiator cap as well.
EDIT: After lots of hassles with getting fitted hoses, I went to an online store and bought the stainless steel flex-hoses.
Lower radiator rubber radiat hose is a perfect fit after trimming about 2-3 inches off each end. The upper hose ... It's long enough to work with, but gonna hafta lube the hell out of it to get it on the intake side of the radiator. It's also going to go out, U-turn, up over the intake, over the power steering pump, and then over to the radiator. Not sure I like that. Would really like a universal line - maybe I'll trade the Griffing Radiator I bought for a universal line at Summit? Hmmm....
EDIT: After looking at things more closely, I think I am going to T off of the petcock and run that line up to the steam vent. Much easier to do it that way, only challenge is securing the line.
Cost: $170 even. Uses same radiator brackets that the 2-core does (4-core uses larger ones) and I will need to move the lower saddle/bracket closer to the battery box to get it to fit. From what I gather, you just remove the rubber insert, drill out a rivent and re-rivet it where it needs to go. Should be fun to figure out.I also picked up the nipple to thread into the hole I'm drill out in my water pump for the steam vent (see the FAQ at top of this forum, pg. 2). Got this at Advance Auto parts, along with radiator hoses for an '02 Sierra/Silverado 1500/5.3L and a universal flex hose 13"/2.75", I think.
Advance part numbers:
1/8-NPT to 3/8 hose fitting: 43275
Lower (short) radiator hose: 1313
Upper radiator hose: E71989
I picked up an 18# radiator cap as well.
EDIT: After lots of hassles with getting fitted hoses, I went to an online store and bought the stainless steel flex-hoses.
Lower radiator rubber radiat hose is a perfect fit after trimming about 2-3 inches off each end. The upper hose ... It's long enough to work with, but gonna hafta lube the hell out of it to get it on the intake side of the radiator. It's also going to go out, U-turn, up over the intake, over the power steering pump, and then over to the radiator. Not sure I like that. Would really like a universal line - maybe I'll trade the Griffing Radiator I bought for a universal line at Summit? Hmmm....
EDIT: After looking at things more closely, I think I am going to T off of the petcock and run that line up to the steam vent. Much easier to do it that way, only challenge is securing the line.
Last edited by shifty`; 12-01-2006 at 04:55 PM.
10-17-2006, 02:41 PM
#137
Ok, got my last and final radiator in towards end of last week. Part # 433366. 1800radiator.com had is listed as part number 366SP or 366PL (two diff't labels on the box) and price for me was $170, free delivery. They had the wrong radiator at my door (the first time) in less than 3 hours then, after test fit proved it didn't work, I went to their outlet and swapped it for 366 model and that one (3-row) fit like a champ.
I moved my lower pass. side radiator mount/pad/saddle/whatever this weekend by pulling the rubber out, drilling out the rivet from underneath, then bolting it into the other stock location on the radiator support using a ½" bolt and nut I found in a box for $1 at the LAPS (AutoZone, I think).
Got nothing much done all weekend except installation of some grommets here and there ... parents in town ... but my steering column grommet arrived today, along with my 3½" aluminum intake extension from www.intakehoses.com, so I'll get that scuffed up and installed tonight if all goes well. I'm going to try to mock up fan brackets or at least figure out the logic on how to install them tonight also.
then, after test fit proved it didn't work, I went to their outlet and swapped it for 366 model and that one (3-row) fit like a champ.I moved my lower pass. side radiator mount/pad/saddle/whatever this weekend by pulling the rubber out, drilling out the rivet from underneath, then bolting it into the other stock location on the radiator support using a ½" bolt and nut I found in a box for $1 at the LAPS (AutoZone, I think).
Got nothing much done all weekend except installation of some grommets here and there ... parents in town ... but my steering column grommet arrived today, along with my 3½" aluminum intake extension from www.intakehoses.com, so I'll get that scuffed up and installed tonight if all goes well. I'm going to try to mock up fan brackets or at least figure out the logic on how to install them tonight also.
10-31-2006, 10:51 PM
#139
Speedometer! In one of your earlier posts, you mentioned something about using a mechanical speedometer with a kit or something by Keisler automotive to adapt it to an electronic set-up. I couldn't find anything on their website about this.
I am trying to find a cheaper way to use a cable driven speedometer with an electronic transmission, other than the $400-$500 tailshaft mod kits out there.
I am trying to find a cheaper way to use a cable driven speedometer with an electronic transmission, other than the $400-$500 tailshaft mod kits out there.
