Has anyone bolted a tremec to the LS1. Would I need to get a special bellhousing?

Thanks

 

Mcleod Industries do a bellhousing for exactly that. However, having got one of those myself, i could do it far cheaper now by using a regular Chevy 350ci bellhousing. The pilot bearing in the crank of an LS1 is recessed 1/4" (sits closer in to the block) so your tremec input shaft is effectively 1/4" too short to engage the bearing correctly. Either buy an extended pilot bushing from GM (part No listed on LS1 tech somewhwere!) or have one machined up, which is still cheap. Try to use a bellhousing that itilises a hydraulic clutch with a push action or retain the hydraulic lines and use a hydraulic throwout bearing which is expensive. However Saab use hydraulic bearing assemblies and these can be adapted for use on virtally anything once their inside daimeter has been adapted to match your gearbox input shaft etc etc.

 

I've seen a few Tremec T-56's bolted to LS1's...



http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/partpics.html

 

I want to use the TKO 600. I have a regular scattershield that I will use. Thanks for the info on the pilot bearing. Cant I bolt up a regular disk and plate to the ls1 flywheel and use a standard TO bearing and run my regular manual clutch operation? I'm putting this in my 68 Camaro. Also I heard that I may have some issues with the starter?

Thanks

Chuck

 

I used Ls1 starter, flywheel ,clutch, just adapted the box to fit. Suppliers always list LS1 clutches/flywheels seperately but i am sure that the bolt pattern on the flywheel can be redrilled if required to match your clutch plate and cover. The ls1 starter is different to a regular 350ci starter in that the bolt holes are not the same. Use matching starter/flywheel combination, can`t see it being a problem.
Once i had all the bits from Mcleod in front of me i realised that regular 350 Chevy clutch components could be adapted to work. Ok, you may have to redrill/machine a couple of things but it`s alot cheaper than the £500 adaptors from mcleod etc etc.
If you`ve already got the complete mechanical clutch assembly, then by all means use it, it won`t cost you much if it turns out to be not really compatible. But if starting from scratch with just the clutch/cover etc i would go to a hydraulic self adjusting master/slave cylinder. I used Jaguar 5.3ltr v12 master and slave cylinders and you can easily push the clutch in with your hand. I do still have the Mcleod m/cylinder etc but didn`t use it.

 

I have a 71 Camaro with an LS1 bolted up to a tremec t-56 that was originally set up to bolt to an first gen style 350. I used the LS1 version of the Lakewood scattershield, but the old-style scattershield will work as well - just drill the shield for the extra mounting hole on an LS1. Old style clutch and disk will bolt up to LS1 flywheel - that's what I've done, although you may have to slightly clearance the clutch mounting holes to fit the LS1 metric clutch bolts. I'm using a Mcleod hydraulic master and throwout bearing, mostly for header clearance, but a mechanical linkage would fit. If you go with a mechanical linkage, you'll have to get a longer pivot stud - the clutch is .400" further away from the face of the trans on an LS1. I echo the comments on the pilot bearing - we had a custom one machined up, but I know S&P and others make them as well.

BTW, I've got a tremec TKO in my other project, and it shifts much lighter and smoother than the t-56.

 

i am in the process of doing this set up. ls1 and tko 600 in 69 camaro. did a mock up with a lake bell not the ls1 bell. looks like you need to drill the 2 lower holes in the oil pan but it fits good. thanks for that pilot bearing tip and the longer pivot ball stud, any other tips. my clutch arrived yesterday i got the ls1 centerforce df hope this works ok mike

 

blackwidow, I don't know about the LS1 clutch - does it have the same spline count as the TKO input shaft? Not sure about using a standard mechanical linkage with this, either, although it is a push-style clutch. The late model clutches tend to be more spendy, with no other advantage in this application.

 

My 2002 Ls1 came with a Tremec T56. At first I was confused, but I called Tremec and gave them the serial numbers and they said the transmission was from a Camaro.

Are you guys talking about 98 Ls1's????? I remember reading that from 99+ they started using Tremec T56's. Correct me if I am wrong.

 

jegs had to call centerforce rep they think it will be ok, if not they said they will take it back. anybody have that part # for that pilot bearing. did the caprice/impala plastic gas tank swap,its tight but it works saved big cash thanks chris.used 350thm trans mount with no problems. the big problem will be the ac would like to keep it low in the stock ls1 spot. need a small ac unit lol.any info on this would be a big help. can`t wait to fire this thing. mike

 

You are confusing a Tremec T56 with a Tremec TKO 500/600

The TKO 500 or 600 are both 5 speed trannies and are sometimes prefered by those that don't need the double overdrive of the T56.. the TKOs are also stronger than a stock T56. The TKO's also have a bit better shifter placement in some musclecar applications.

The only difference in a 500 and 600 TKO is that the 600 is rated to handle more torque.. they are both 5 speeds..

Mcleod and Keisler both make bellhousings that allow you to bolt a Tremec TKO to your LSx engine..

 

Ok guys here is another question. I talked to Mcleod which is not easy to get in touch with there tech guy and he said that I can use the standard BBC SBC scattershield and use the longer pilot bearing. He said that I would need to use one of there flywheels. I want to use the standerd clutch setup and linkages and was wondering if the LS1 had a place to mount the ball the goes into the block?

Thanks

 

You mean the pivot ball for the release arm?... that goes into the bell housing not the block. If you use the hyraulic throwout bearing, then there is no pivot ball.

 

The pivot ball goes in the bellhousing and I know that may need to be adjusted but I was asking about the ball that goes into the block that hold the clutch linkage that connect between the plate on the subframe to the block. I want to run a standard TO bearing not a hydraulic.

Thanks

 

weranc55, can you explain a bit more clearly. I think that what you are suggesting should work as long as it`s a push type action to the clutch.

 

What I was talking about is there is a rod that goes to the clutch fork that pushes it in. That rod is attached to what I think they call a Z bar. The Z bar is a tube about 10 inches long and has two brackets welded on to it one the holds the rod that goes to the clutch fork and the other rod that comes from the pedal inside the car. That Z bar is held on one side by a plate the bolts up to the subframe. The other side of the Z bar slips into a ball that usually bolts into the block by the oil filter. My question was is there spot on the LS1 where you can bolt screw that ball in? The other question was can I bolt the standard SBC BBC scattershield to the block without using the plate the protects the block. I think its about a 1/4 inch thick.

Thanks

 

Didn't realize you not only don't want a hydraulic TO bearing, but you don't want a hydraulic clutch at all. I don't think there is a spot on the LS1 to bolt up a mechanical clutch linkage.

 

Well if there isnt one then I will need to go hydraulic and will need advise on that.

Thanks

 

The hardest part of a hydraulic clutch conversion is getting the master cylinder for the hydraulic system mated up to the clutch pedal. You need the pedal to push in the actuating rod of the master cylinder right? However your current set up probably "pulls" on the cable from the clutch pedal. So this usually requires the m/c to be located on the engine side of the pedal (ie, behind it) so when you push down on the pedal, it in turn pushes the actuating rod into the m/c. You can remove the entire pedal box assembly of whatever car you have (which will involve hanging upside down with 3 pairs of hands trying to get to that uppermost retaining bolt behind the dash!) to bolt the m/c on a bracket on the p/box. Failing that, mount the m/c on the engine side of the bulk head and use an extended actuating rod that passes through the bulkhead and then clips onto the clutch pedal which, normally, can be removed as a seperate item from the p/box. Pay particular attention to the angle of the rod as it passes through the bulkhead and throughout its full range/arc of travel. I used a Jag v12 m/c which has 2 mounting lugs positioned vertically, above and below the centre line of the cylinder itself ,so it mounts easily, anywhere. Run the hydraulic line to a matching v12 slave cylinder. (Use a remote reservoir to supply the m/c with fluid)

Position the slave cylinder within an inch of the clutch actuating arm(thats the overall travel of s/cylinder) and use trial and error for final adjustment of operating rod(threaded rod for adjustment with rod-end/ball bearing at the tip, will do). If your bellhousing is cast iron then drill and bolt s/cylinder. If it`s steel then weld it on.

I bolted my m/cylinder to a bracket on the pedal box using all the previously mentioned parts and the clutch is very light with the pedal "biting" about 1/2way up/down. I also use the hydraulic throw-out bearing assembly from McLeod but the take up point was never really consistent with their master/slave cylinders. The various spacers and collars they supply for each application require very precise tolerences when setting up and small mis-measures or discrepencies at the bearing/spacer end, translate to huge movement variations at the pedal end.

 

There is no provision for the ball stud for the Z bar on a LS1 block . But that dosen't mean you're outta luck, just make one , I did took me the better part of a day, fit perfect, looks even better (made it outa polished stainless steel) and the Z bar works like its supposed to. The only problem is exhaust manifold or header clearance , I got to modify my z bar to clear my LS6 manifold. I'll get some pics of it later this weekend when I take it off to work on the Z bar. Stan 70 Corvette LQ4 4 speed