Winter project: LS1 swap vs LT1 stroker in C4
09-21-2005, 02:19 PM
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Winter project: LS1 swap vs LT1 stroker in C4 Hello, I'm a newb to this forum so I am so sorry if this has already been asked a milllion times. I am trying to figure out if I should build a stroker LT1 (396) or go for the LS1 swap for my '95 Corvette. I would really like to go for the LS1 since it has so much more potential out of the box than the LT1 will ever have.
I am honestly surprised this is a fairly uncommon swap. What are the major technical reasons for this?
My plan for the mockup was to buy a plastic engine from P-Ayr so I can experiment with accessory locations and mounting. Since my goal is to get a low mileage pull, it will be a bit easier than pushing around a full weight engine (little scared at the moment with all the recent flood cars hitting the market).
Really my only question I have not been able to figure out is if the ZF6 can be made to work with an LS1. If that is not possible, I am prepared to make an adapter mount for a T56 since we have a full machine shop here at work. I don't suppose there is any way to reuse that expensive McLeod street twin I installed over the winter, is there?
Anyway, TIA for any suggestions!
I am honestly surprised this is a fairly uncommon swap. What are the major technical reasons for this?
My plan for the mockup was to buy a plastic engine from P-Ayr so I can experiment with accessory locations and mounting. Since my goal is to get a low mileage pull, it will be a bit easier than pushing around a full weight engine (little scared at the moment with all the recent flood cars hitting the market).
Really my only question I have not been able to figure out is if the ZF6 can be made to work with an LS1. If that is not possible, I am prepared to make an adapter mount for a T56 since we have a full machine shop here at work. I don't suppose there is any way to reuse that expensive McLeod street twin I installed over the winter, is there?
Anyway, TIA for any suggestions!
09-21-2005, 10:44 PM
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In my opinion I elliminated the LT1 for its one major flaw and that is its distributor behind the water pump. When the water pump goes it leaks into the distributor and ruins it requiring it to be changed. Water pumps go all the time and the longer you own the car it will go out.
LS1 is drivable, coils per cylinder, crank and cam triggers, and fuel injected all of the best features. I think the hardest part is mounting the engine and tranny, once you figure that out the rest is easy.
I am sure someone has already done this in a C4 so you will just have to find that information as I know it is out there somewhere. Hopefully they are here.
LS1 is drivable, coils per cylinder, crank and cam triggers, and fuel injected all of the best features. I think the hardest part is mounting the engine and tranny, once you figure that out the rest is easy.
I am sure someone has already done this in a C4 so you will just have to find that information as I know it is out there somewhere. Hopefully they are here.
09-22-2005, 06:51 AM
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I was considering 383 vs ls2 and decided on the ls2. I was going to have to buy different head castings (LT4 or TFS), all new valvetrain, I wanted a single-plane EFI intake, and I wanted the block converted to 4-bolt mains. Throw in the "cheap" rotating assembly (<$1000) and I have already listen enough to nearly buy the crate engine - and the heads aren't even ported yet.
I decided that I would rather start over with zero miles in a cam only car with headers that will make over 400 rwhp and passes emissions.
You are talking ls1, so it is a little different, but maybe that helps.
I decided that I would rather start over with zero miles in a cam only car with headers that will make over 400 rwhp and passes emissions.
You are talking ls1, so it is a little different, but maybe that helps.
09-22-2005, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by gogogadget
I was considering 383 vs ls2 and decided on the ls2. I was going to have to buy different head castings (LT4 or TFS), all new valvetrain, I wanted a single-plane EFI intake, and I wanted the block converted to 4-bolt mains. Throw in the "cheap" rotating assembly (<$1000) and I have already listen enough to nearly buy the crate engine - and the heads aren't even ported yet.
I decided that I would rather start over with zero miles in a cam only car with headers that will make over 400 rwhp and passes emissions.
You are talking ls1, so it is a little different, but maybe that helps.
I decided that I would rather start over with zero miles in a cam only car with headers that will make over 400 rwhp and passes emissions.
You are talking ls1, so it is a little different, but maybe that helps.
LS1 or LS2 virtually the same engine with the LS2 having some refinements. Just like the LS1 vs LS6 difference is heads, cam, and intake.
09-22-2005, 04:19 PM
#5
I was in the same position you were about this time last year. My lt1 optispark went out along with some other engine problems. I was faced with either building a forged 396 lt1 or go ls1. I went for the ls1 conversion and have never looked back. Actually, now I'm having a 402 ls2 built at sdpc and building a turbo system as well. Very happy with the ls1
09-26-2005, 09:18 PM
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I did the ls1 swap in my C4 about 3 years ago. Which later swapped to a 408" /w spray. I believe my C4 is the fastest stock suspension car record holder on dana 44 IRS. 1.42 60' foots and 145mph in the 1/4.
It is a direct bolt in with a fbody ls1 / 4l60e. swapped c-beam tailshaft from my old 700r4 onto it, and it bolted right up. Used some S&p motor mounts and it bolted right in. Used MAC f-body headers and just did a custom pipe off the collector and it bolted right in. I eliminated the a/c because it wouldnt clear. Also I used a S&P alternator bracket with a adj tensioner. I used autometer gauges in a custom dash panel that looked much better than the starwars looking dash.
Youll need to go T56 to stay with a stick. Youll wanna check if you can change just the discs to the t56 and keep the pressure plate..
It is a direct bolt in with a fbody ls1 / 4l60e. swapped c-beam tailshaft from my old 700r4 onto it, and it bolted right up. Used some S&p motor mounts and it bolted right in. Used MAC f-body headers and just did a custom pipe off the collector and it bolted right in. I eliminated the a/c because it wouldnt clear. Also I used a S&P alternator bracket with a adj tensioner. I used autometer gauges in a custom dash panel that looked much better than the starwars looking dash.
Youll need to go T56 to stay with a stick. Youll wanna check if you can change just the discs to the t56 and keep the pressure plate..
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09-27-2005, 06:58 PM
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The cost to build an lt1 to make similar power is no where near a good $/hp
Just put a stock LS1 in with headers/cam/intake and youll have a nice 400 rwhp that gets 25 mpg (mine did) and dead reliable...that wont happen with the LT1 for anywhere near the same price range
Just put a stock LS1 in with headers/cam/intake and youll have a nice 400 rwhp that gets 25 mpg (mine did) and dead reliable...that wont happen with the LT1 for anywhere near the same price range
10-12-2005, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by VTESPEED
Youll need to go T56 to stay with a stick. Youll wanna check if you can change just the discs to the t56 and keep the pressure plate..
I would love to do an LSx in my vette, but one thing is I would rather keep the ZF6, the T56 has other issues with installing in a vette.. tail housing, shifter location are two that come to mind.
10-12-2005, 12:48 PM
#11
Think of the ZF transmission like this..... super expensive to rebuild and only a handful of people in the country can do it.
T56 is very stout, anyone can build it, upgraded parts for 700hp+ are only a few hundred bucks, and it bolts right up to the LS1. They are for sale here every day.
Go LS1 and you won't regret it. Superior ignition system, aluminum block, with upgraded rod bolts 7,000rpm isn't a problem, 400rwhp with a cam/headers/tune... add some nice heads and 440-450rwhp is there with a stock LS6 intake and ported stock TB. Enuf said.
T56 is very stout, anyone can build it, upgraded parts for 700hp+ are only a few hundred bucks, and it bolts right up to the LS1. They are for sale here every day.
Go LS1 and you won't regret it. Superior ignition system, aluminum block, with upgraded rod bolts 7,000rpm isn't a problem, 400rwhp with a cam/headers/tune... add some nice heads and 440-450rwhp is there with a stock LS6 intake and ported stock TB. Enuf said.
10-12-2005, 06:40 PM
#12
im doing the swap right now into an 86 vette. Im using a tko 600 though. If you can afford it the ls1 swap is great. The car will weigh nothing and have tons of power with just a cam. An lt1 383 is nothing to joke about.
95 was the best year for the optispark that everyone hates, it became vented in 94 and some 95s have the older style computer that gets wacked out by random vibrations. If that is your main issue there are options that replace the optispark with individual coils.
Comes down to time and money. The ls1 swap will cost more. The t56 will be annoying to work with... alot of fab work. The shifter is gonna be a litttle bit farther back than stock position and its gonna be in the center.
95 corvettes also dont have the star-wars dash, so thats another reason why NOT to mess with that car.
Finally, lt1 6 speed cars are still worth money, you could pickup a nice early c4 with a blown l98 and hack away at it instead. No point in doing heart surgery for a little more power.
95 was the best year for the optispark that everyone hates, it became vented in 94 and some 95s have the older style computer that gets wacked out by random vibrations. If that is your main issue there are options that replace the optispark with individual coils.
Comes down to time and money. The ls1 swap will cost more. The t56 will be annoying to work with... alot of fab work. The shifter is gonna be a litttle bit farther back than stock position and its gonna be in the center.
95 corvettes also dont have the star-wars dash, so thats another reason why NOT to mess with that car.
Finally, lt1 6 speed cars are still worth money, you could pickup a nice early c4 with a blown l98 and hack away at it instead. No point in doing heart surgery for a little more power.
