Okay, so I am now shifting gears with my project (I am so funny). The A4 is gone and I am now awaiting shipment of a T56 from Indiana.

There are 2 problems however.

- I need to hook up clutch hydraulics - master and slave and lines.

- I spent an a$$load of money - my wife is pissed.

So, obviously I have to get the T56 slave. I have 2 days left on the Fred Beans LS1.com GP prices (Z06 Clutch = 309.97, Slave Cylinder =74.80, Master Cylinder = 105.97). These prices seem pretty good, but I am still suffering here. I could really use that $100 for the Master.

The other issue is that that LS1 master cyl. is really wierd, with the angling downward and such. There's gonna be some awkwardness and lots o' fabrication. I would REALLY like to be able to just re-use my Datsun Master Cyl. But will it work? Will it push enough fluid to work the clutch?

Also, GM likes these wacky fittings and it may be hard to adapt regular flare lines to GM wackiness. I suspect it will be easier to do that than to mount that LS1 Master cyl though.

Other Datsun V8 T56 swappers (although non-LS1) have used the Datsun Master successfully. They drill and tap the old-style plastic T56 slave for regular fittings and clutch actuation is apparently just fine. My service manual doesn't list part numbers, but the 97 Master does look very different from the 98 and up Master. So, it may obviously have significantly different fluid pumping characteristics. In other words, it looks like the LS1 Master and Slave are a unique, wacky matched set.

Anyone have any info on this? I'm thinking of just trying to use my Datsun master and then, if it doesn't move the clutch enough, then I could switch to the LS1 unit (of course, that will make adapting the lines more difficult since I will have to retain all the GM fittings).

 

You can use a Wilwood 3/4" bore master cylinder JEGS $69 and this will work well with the LS1 t56. There is no problem trying the stock master But I tried mine on an 88 RX7 and it didnt have enough volume to disengage fully. The real tricky part is the quick disconnect at the slave cylinder a real special part that you can only get with the GM master at a costly price. I purchased a GM unit and fabricated this piece from a brass male air or hydraulic quick connect I purchased at the Local hydraulic specialty store. I used a flexible brake line from NAPA to go from Master to Quick Conn. The GM unit with its plastic and angled configuration not to mention very short braided hose would not have been worth the effort and cost. If you cant fabricate the Quick Conn I suggest you take the metal tube out of the slave cyl and either braze or weld some sort of threaded fitting on it to start your procedure as this damn fitting is almost impossible to find. If you guys find one tell me because I m in the process of doing a 3rd gen RX7 with an LS1 supercharged

 

I dunno why I didn't consider using an aftermarket Master cyl. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> - excellent suggestion.

I may be able to get that fitting too. I know for the fuel lines, the wierdo stocker stuff can be purchased from Advanced Auto. Of course, the dimshits behind the counter don't know this, but I happened to be back there to get some brake line and saw a whole rack of "wierd" fittings. They had fuel and transmission fittings and repair lines. Expensive, but made the fuel plumbing (I'm using the stock FBody tank) much easier. There may be a fitting or stub line that works with the clutch hydros.

Anyway, very cool - thanks.

 

On our Cobra, we used a Wilwood cylinder, the factory GM line, then used an adapter from that to hard line that was direct out of the Wilwood.

I'll see if I can dig up pictures.

Works fine.

Brian Green
89 TTA
01 Jeep TJ

 

I wouldnt put too much time into that fitting. I did it about 8 months ago and those are the hours in my life I will never get back. Seriously more power to you if you can find it, but as of right now nobody but GM sells the LS1 slave and master. If you find it post it

 

Here's a few pictures of the setup on our Cobra.

http://www.chitownsyty.com/bg/pics/1/DCP_0875.JPG shows the master cylinder

http://www.chitownsyty.com/bg/pics/1/DCP_0873.JPG shows the line, and a bit of the adapter that goes to the stock braided line, down to the trans. So it's a simple setup, you should get some line with the Wilwood cylinder, then the only part you need to adapt it to the LS1 is the adapter fitting, which I believe is an Earl's. Buy the Wilwood somewhere, bring the line/fitting and your braided GM line to a speed shop, and see about getting the adapter.

Or go with the automatic <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Brian Green
89 TTA
01 Jeep TJ

 

Does this (Summit) part number sound familiar: WIL-260-1304 ? It's described as a 3/4" small cylinder "for clutch and other requirements".

The only other part is a "Combination Master Cylinder" which both Jegs and Summit carry. Has a pic, but doesn't look like the one in your photo either.

I think I'm gonna go ahead and order the WIL-260-1304 - it's $45.

 

If you want to wait a day or two, I can get the part number for you.

Brian Green
89 TTA - gone soon...
01 Jeep TJ

 

That was fast - ordered it Wednesday and got it this afternoon. Looks just like Brian's (dad's). FWIW, it's wilwood part number 260-1304.

I was looking at the slave today. That wierd fitting piece comes out with the removal of a pin. If I tapped the hole, I could just thread a fitting in there. Yes?

 

Seems to be working. Bought a tap and happened to have a fitting. I first tore apart the funky aluminum fitting to see about adapting it. Big no go. You know the actual tube is like billet steel? Must be very costy.

Anyway, I drilled out the hole in the slave with a 7/16 bit and then tapped it. Used a bubble flared piece of tubing and retained the little rubber squish washer at the end. My fitting was somewhat short and the socket fairly deep, so, I needed everything I could get to make up the difference.

So, I rigged it all up to the master cyl on the bench. Bled it, and then pumped it a few times. The other fittings kept leaking (especially the one at the master cyl itself), but the hybrid one at the slave seems very tight. It better be - it's all goin in tomorrow.

This design is such a bonehead. Non adjustable. Slave failure will cause fluid to get all over the clutch, so it would need to be replaced as well. But then since you have to freaking drop the trans to get at the slave anyway, I suppose that's just as well.

 

<img src="http://240z.jeromio.com/motorswap/aug/SlaveCylT56LS1Mod3.jpg" alt=" - " />

I retained the rubber O-Ring in there. Sealed up nice and tight - no leaks. I bent up the line after I mounted the slave. It points up and a little forward and then has a braided brake line on it.

 

I thought the factory clutch master cylinder was 7/8" not 3/4" I just purchased a set of wilwood pedals with triple master cyls, and I got a 7/8" for the clutch, (for the brakes too for that matter) Should I have gone with the 3/4" instead?