I do not have a circuit 1035 on my C101 connector. I'm wondering if this isn't specific to the V6 models and my service manual just forgets to mention this detail.

I'm planning on connecting the fat purple wire that goes to the starter solenoid to a relay switched against a hot always wire. Then I'll switch the relay with my ignition switch, start position.

My worry is that this bypasses the PCM. The PCM will be on by virtue of the orange always hot wire and the 539 and 439 circuits (pink) that are ignition on. I have these pink wires connected to fused, ignition on lines. But doesn't the PCM need to have a "Start" signal?

But then, perhaps there's a wire running from the starter solenoid back to the PCM? I don't see a 1035 circuit on the PCM pinouts anywhere. Nor do I see any kind of pin labelled as "Start" or anything.

Worrisome.... Can anyone clear this up for me?

 

No, there's no start signal to the PCM on these things.

 

Looking at my 2001 service manual,it appears 1035 is only on the 3.8.I think the pcm gets a start signal from the cam or crank sensor.If it doesn't pick it up,it(pcm) won't give spark.

 

Well that's certainly true! If it doesn't pick those up, it won't know the engine is turning! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

John

 

Alright then. Can you tell I'm paranoid? I think I've got everything wired up. Just waiting to connect the negative lead to the battery and then turn the key....

 

Make sure there's oil in it and TURN THAT KEY!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

John

 

Well, I started it up. I had to kludge the ignition wiring because apparently in the year of not being used, my ignition switch pooped out. In the Start position, it opens the On/Run circuit. So everything I had wired to that line (via a relay to a fuse block) would shut off while cranking (injectors, pcm ign. line - all those pink wires). Took several tries before I finally decided to put a light on that line and sure enough, it went off when the key was turned to Start. Sucking.

Anyway, I only let it run for 10 seconds or so. It doesn't sound too good. The SES light is on too (assuming I have it wired correctly - I have an LED connected to 12V+ on one wire and the brown/white wire from C230 on the other).

I still have a big wiring mess to sort out - rewiring the entire car from scratch. Still haven't got radiator hoses or proper intake plumbing.

 

You say it doesn't run too good. Is it missing steadily or random? I would check my plug wires, and coil harness. After that turn the key to the on pos. And check the pink wires ( they feed your injectors and coil packs. They all need power. As far as the ses light it could be just about anything. I wouldn't worry about it for now.

 

It's very common for one or more injectors to stick shut when the engine has sat for a long time. The fuel evaporates out over time and leaves a varnish type residue.
Reading the codes and plumbing it for some extended running will go a long way towards a smooth running engine.

I finally had to build a variable rate injector cycler, so I could "prod" the injectors before even trying to start the engine. It's kinda nifty; if you have spark, you can actually run the engine with it by just turning the cycle rate **** until the engine smoothes out nicely!

John

 

Yeah, I am gonna order ATAP (been waffling on which scan tool to buy for over a month now: Alex Peper, Auterra, ATAP) to diagnose the engine issues. I suspect that it is a real code, since John@Speartech did my PCM and all of the "Swap" codes should be eliminated. I probably have one or 2 wires left out or criss-crossed or something.

But, it only ran for 10seconds, and I wouldn't expect it to run beautifully after sitting for well over a year.

I have to get a new ignition switch - right now I have to patch a hot wire over to that set of pink wires in order to start since for whatever stupid reason, my switch turns Ign. On to Off when the key goes to Start.

Also, as an aside, I have what, 5 pink wires (439, 539, 839, etc, etc), split out into 2 different 10amp fuses. I presume that's okay and that there's no need to fuse each one separately. Both fuses are fed 12v+ by the Ign.On line from my (broken) switch - no relay in between. I do have a relay for Acc.On and the Start circuit.

It didn't sound like it was missing - I dunno, it just didn't sound smooth. It was also much louder than I expected. Much. That may be the reason I don't think it sounds good. And I may have some exhaust leaks (I have 3 gasketed flanges in my system which is dual 2 1/2 off the stock manifolds Y'd into 3 inch to a MAC muffler).

I don't have a throttle cable hooked up, so it was just idling. I have yet to put new plugs in it. The wires look good. I got the motor from a wreck. Lots of battery acid damage to various bits and also I had to replace 2 coilpacks.

It was kind of a relief - I had tried cranking it like a dozen times - before I finally found that the ign switch was hosed. So, when I patched the wires, and cranked it and it fired right up - that kinda zapped my senses.

So, Now I need to track down a switch, then connect a real air intake system, radiator hoses, throttle cable - also fuel tank vent lines and a bunch of non-swap related vehicle wiring (I tore everything apart).

BTW, Cyrus, who also has a 240Z with LS1/T56 just posted his recent times on hybridz.org: 12.077@119.066 with a 60ft of 1.849.