lownfast

iTrader: (4)

cool build man, your pics and info are what got me this far. im shooting for power tour 2013, think you'll be there?

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

if you ran in the 12's, what the hell the other car run????? 9.90,

prot68

Stealth did you have to use any spacers on the cragars when you went to the c5 front brakes or does the rim have adequate caliper clearance as is. Thinking about picking one up for a low cost spare wheel.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

No spacers on the front. Running the Kore3 adapters and hubs. It is very tight, but everything clears.

psi3000

You can see the battery cables and the fuel lines coming out of the frame in this pic.


Mounted the fan and Fuel pressure regulator and built the fuel lines. You can also barely see the power steering hose I had made. I'll get some better pics later.


I am doing a 70 chevelle with a LQ4. It looks like you switched to solid lines to rubber in these pics. Was it SAE30R9? why the change? Also what fuel pressure regulator did you use? I am trying to piece together my tank to engine setup and this would help greatly.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

I am running Aeroquip socketless hose. It's -8AN supply and -6 AN return. No hard lines at all. Aeromotive FPR mounted on the fender you can see in the second pic. This is overkill for a stock motor, even for what I have now, but don't want to redo the lines when I add more power.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

You can see them on the frame rail here with the fuel filter.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

11's finally. 11.90@116

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Congrad's.... good to see your still out there !~

BC

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

Did a little body work to the car and sprayed it with epoxy primer again. Went to the Car Masters show at Disney this past weekend. Got to meet Chip Foose. Had a great time.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Stealth.. Looking good!.. You need to take care of the underside of the hood ! LOL..

MadMaxxx

I'm doing an ls1 t56 swap in my 68 gto right now, I'm using the f body pan and have the motor set way back in the engine bay. I'm currently trying to figure out how high the trans needs to be, I've already cut the trans tunnelnto fit the t56 but it looks like the trans sits to low. When I jack it up the yoke hits the floor support. Did you have to cut yours out?

Bronco3738

More then likely, you will need to cut the brace. Using the F body setup in an A body is a tight fit and requires a few compromises. You need to make sure you have clearence under the oil pan to your tie rod ends. Depending on your oil pan this can push your engine up a little. When you get to the transmission, it can fit without cutting the brace, but it's almost impossible to get the tail high enough to get your angles right without cutting the brace. It becomes more of an issue if you lower the car which makes the tail need to go higher to get the angles within a good working range.

Didn't mean to step on Stealth's toes, but hope this helps. I'm doing an LS1/ T56 swap into a 70 Chevelle, which is close to your swap, so I'm working with the same issues.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

All good Bronco.

My tailshaft ends an inch or two before the middle floor support. I did not cut it at all. As Bronco said there are a lot of variables. Have you replaced your body bushings? That alone could make it tighter.

Kind hard to see here. I can take some more pictures if you like, but the tailshaft ends before the middle brace. If you read through my thread again you will see I had to deal with moving the engine up to get tie rod clearance and it's shoved back as close to the firewall as possible.

This is an old picture. Since then I build a new trans crossmember and redid the exhaust. I'll try to get some more pics up over the weekend.

the450r

iTrader: (1)

I positioned my engine very similar to stealth in my 68 gto. I cut a big hole in my floor and I didn't cut the floor brace. I think I have pictures of before and after the cut.

the450r

iTrader: (1)

I have been dreaming about a wheel and tire upgrade. i see alot of A bodys with 8inch wide rims in front and 9 inch rims in back. are your rims the same width?
did you choose 17inch rims over 18 inch rims? of course i dont want to get any rubbing and with autocross use like your car has seen did you get any tire rub? do you wish you went with wider tire or a different tire?

always eager to read an update about your car. what have you been up to?

bczee

iTrader: (12)

With 8's on the front and 9.5's on the rear, you should have any problems with lowering and auto-x'ing. But it will also depend on what offset/Backspacing your using... with a custom offset/BS you could even go wider.

I have 8" 245x45x17 Fronts and 9.5" 275x40x17 on the rear with 4.5" backspacing and have no issue on my Chevelle Auto-x'ing...

Chris05

Very nice build man, looks great.

the450r

iTrader: (1)

I have been looking at 17x8 fronts or 18x8 fronts with 4.5 backspace. And 17x9 or 18x9 with 5.25 backspace. I think a 9" wheel would fit up front. Just thinking in the future if I want to go wider tire than 255 I could. And spending more for the 18 to have more tire sizes and styles. I was thinking 255 front and 275 rear. I have 245/60 235/60/15 now and they are narrow and short.

Stealth looks like he's running a different tire at the auto cross.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

Mine are 17x9 all around. 5" of backspacing. 275/40 17 Nitto NT05 for street and autocross. I just swap the rears out for drag radials when I hit the 1/4 mile.