'71 Chevelle - LS1/T56 - In progress
#121
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Well I have most of the frame painted now only a little more to do. It looks a lot better than it used to. Still waiting on my front suspension. I didn't paint the section where the upper control arm mount, because it wil be modified for the adjustable uppers.
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC02210.JPG)
I also have been working on a little adjustable clutch pedal stop. I'm about to go finish welding it.
I also have been working on a little adjustable clutch pedal stop. I'm about to go finish welding it.
#122
TECH Senior Member
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Great idea with the clutch pedal stop. many people don't think about the possibility of over traveling the clutch, but it can be ugly. Overtraveling the clutch is also hell on the thrust bearing of the engine.
Andrew
Andrew
#127
TECH Senior Member
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Stealth. Instead of trimming and cutting.. could you not just heat and bend it in a little.. but I guess it depends on how much more room you need.
Not sure from the pic, but maybe you can reshape it and maybe weld some more re-enforcement in if needed on the top to box it in some ??
Go thing you only painted your frame and not Powder coated it.
Not sure from the pic, but maybe you can reshape it and maybe weld some more re-enforcement in if needed on the top to box it in some ??
Go thing you only painted your frame and not Powder coated it.
#128
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After talking to a few people who have done this already trimming it isn't a problem structurally. It seems 68-72 A-body cars were the only ones who got this huge gusset. Most people trim about 1.5" off and roll it over some. I will probably do something along those lines. The earlier A-bodies is much smaller as well as camaros and Corvettes got no gusset. Maybe something to do with weight, but the upper arm really doesn't carry much load. As you can see I didn't paint this area because I knew I was going to have to cut it.
#130
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that thing should weigh in at 3300 no passenger. I just finished my car and put the hood on yesterday. Drove great, but now I know why they had suicide ***** on the wheel jeez. Over four turns end to end. So i ordered a faster ratio from original parts. You might think about before you put it together. Better would be rack and pinion. There is a company that makes it for your car in florida.
#131
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I'm hoping the car will be closer to 3300#, but I do agree.
SBC 575# + TH350 125# = 700# I found the motor/trans weight online, might be wrong.
LS1 390# 460# + T56 130# = 590#
!A/C = 75+
Light weight carpet is under 11# for entire car I removed about 30-40# of sound deadening and the old carpet.
The car was close to 3550# w/o driver last time I weighed it.
3550
110
75
- 30
---------
3335#
I guess I will find out after it's running.
SBC 575# + TH350 125# = 700# I found the motor/trans weight online, might be wrong.
LS1 390# 460# + T56 130# = 590#
!A/C = 75+
Light weight carpet is under 11# for entire car I removed about 30-40# of sound deadening and the old carpet.
The car was close to 3550# w/o driver last time I weighed it.
3550
110
75
- 30
---------
3335#
I guess I will find out after it's running.
#132
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Originally Posted by mullenh
that thing should weigh in at 3300 no passenger. I just finished my car and put the hood on yesterday. Drove great, but now I know why they had suicide ***** on the wheel jeez. Over four turns end to end. So i ordered a faster ratio from original parts. You might think about before you put it together. Better would be rack and pinion. There is a company that makes it for your car in florida.
#134
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Originally Posted by jfman
I ordered a set of SC$C adjustable upper from ATS to go along with my ATX spindles. I wonder if they will be the same as yours... ?
#136
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Originally Posted by pist0lpete
Stealth, did you go with the street comp stage 2 or the street comp stage 2 plus package from SC&C?
#137
Sawzall and Welder Mod
iTrader: (46)
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For the upper frame perch on the blue car, I just beat on it with a 5 pound hand sledge, and smoothed out the hammer marks with a green grinding disc. It only took a few minutes per side and I didn't have to risk weakening anything by removing material.
Your car looks like it's coming along... The frame looks awesome!
Your car looks like it's coming along... The frame looks awesome!
#138
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I got some more fittings in and started working on modifing my fuel pump assembly to be -8 pickup and -6 return all the way. I didn't want to run -8/-6 lines and have a big restriction leaving and entering the tank so I came up w/ this idea after looking at f-body dual in-tank pump setups. I planned this so I can upgrade to dual pumps easily when needed.
This is my Impala tank pickup.
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC02238.JPG)
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC02239.JPG)
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC02241.JPG)
I drilled out the plastic assembly and fit a 3/8 hard line to the bottom.
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC02242.JPG)
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC02243.JPG)
I need to get some submersible fuel line from napa to finish it up. I have the racetronix 255lph kit I will be installing. I haven't seen anyone else do something like this yet to the Impala tank. It's a little overkill for now, but I don't want to have to make any major changes when I start raising the power level.
This is my Impala tank pickup.
I drilled out the plastic assembly and fit a 3/8 hard line to the bottom.
I need to get some submersible fuel line from napa to finish it up. I have the racetronix 255lph kit I will be installing. I haven't seen anyone else do something like this yet to the Impala tank. It's a little overkill for now, but I don't want to have to make any major changes when I start raising the power level.
Last edited by stealth71; 12-13-2006 at 09:27 AM.