Cable-X questions
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 242
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From: Los Angeles, CA
They are reliable, but you need to be able to mount and wire it well for that to stay true.
They are as accurate as your math is when you work out the formula given which includes the # of teeth for the VSS (17) your rear gear ratio, and your tire revolutions per mile.
They have a slight delay, but it is mostly when slowing down vs speeding up.
Tyler
They are as accurate as your math is when you work out the formula given which includes the # of teeth for the VSS (17) your rear gear ratio, and your tire revolutions per mile.
They have a slight delay, but it is mostly when slowing down vs speeding up.
Tyler
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From: Gig Harbor, Wa
Originally Posted by Teetoe_Jones
They are reliable, but you need to be able to mount and wire it well for that to stay true.
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 242
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From: Los Angeles, CA
If you don't wire it well, it won't work, and if you mount it in the engine compartment, it can be a short life. We mount ours under dash and solder all connections.
They are $320 plus shipping.
Tyler
They are $320 plus shipping.
Tyler
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From: Norn Iron
Ive been using one in my car for almost 2 years now...
BUT, its not alll good.
occasionally, I'll be up to 10-15mph, before it starts working. Once working, it remains working until you either stop, where it repeats the same scenario.... OR, in my case when you go over 80/90mph, the unit seems to stop working for some reason. Once below that speed, it works fine again.
But generally speaking, it works fine under most normal circumstances.
BUT, its not alll good.
occasionally, I'll be up to 10-15mph, before it starts working. Once working, it remains working until you either stop, where it repeats the same scenario.... OR, in my case when you go over 80/90mph, the unit seems to stop working for some reason. Once below that speed, it works fine again.
But generally speaking, it works fine under most normal circumstances.
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From: Gig Harbor, Wa
Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Ive been using one in my car for almost 2 years now...
BUT, its not alll good.
occasionally, I'll be up to 10-15mph, before it starts working. Once working, it remains working until you either stop, where it repeats the same scenario.... OR, in my case when you go over 80/90mph, the unit seems to stop working for some reason. Once below that speed, it works fine again.
But generally speaking, it works fine under most normal circumstances.
BUT, its not alll good.
occasionally, I'll be up to 10-15mph, before it starts working. Once working, it remains working until you either stop, where it repeats the same scenario.... OR, in my case when you go over 80/90mph, the unit seems to stop working for some reason. Once below that speed, it works fine again.
But generally speaking, it works fine under most normal circumstances.
When you say occasionally, how often are we talking. I'm thinking that for $300 it better work pretty well. Why do you think it stops working at higher speeds. How are these things calibrated? The last thing I want is a half *** compromise to get my factory gauges to work.
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Downers Grove, IL
Originally Posted by shanekennedy
i've got a 68 camaro that i'm trying to keep as original looking as possible. an aftermarket guage might be an option if i could swap the face plate.
If it is an autometer gauge I know you can swap the stock faceplate on it so it looks stock. You just have to make sure the odometer will line up and that the MPH marks are spaced the same. Otherwise you have to make a face that lines up with the new gauge but still looks stock.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 42
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From: Canada
I have one, and I don't really like it. The needle bounces a little as you increase or decrease speed, and is always a little behind. However it does get the job done. The way it works is that the VSS signal is converted to a DC voltage that runs a motor that then turns the speedo cable. With this type of system I think you can always expect a little delay. The other option is you can get a tailhouse conversion kit that allows you to run the original cable off the trans. This I think is around $500 from S&P. It's more expensive, but then your speedo will operate just like before.
9 Second Club
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From: Norn Iron
Originally Posted by 70 LS1
When you say occasionally, how often are we talking. I'm thinking that for $300 it better work pretty well. Why do you think it stops working at higher speeds. How are these things calibrated? The last thing I want is a half *** compromise to get my factory gauges to work.
But, it isnt a big problem, as ho often do you drive below say 10-15mph ??
Once the speedo is working, you can drive at 5, 10, 15 whatever and it does work. But once you come to a stop again, there is that slight delay when moving off from a stop.
As far as calibration goes, once you select the correct dip switches for your ring gear, tyre etc etc, it works fine.
The motor inside the unit itself has an optical wheel on it, so it can actually verify motor speed to ensure it is accurate, and I would assume vary speed if required.
as to why it doesnt work abouve 80/90mph...Ive no idea.
I know my cable route isnt ideal, making a full 180 degree sweep over say a 16-18" length where I have the unite mounted under my dashboard.
Perhaps this is a contributing factor.
Ive never moved it to try and reduce this angle. But as it works at all legal speeds, its not really a concern to me that it doesnt operate at those other times.
Its not perfect, but it was a lot cheaper than any tailhousing conversions could find, and a lot less hassle.
There are other "boxes", but no-one else would sell me one, as it wasnt for a Camaro or similar based conversion.
Like WTF, a speedo is a speedo, doesnt matter a damn what vehicle its for. Also not living within the US didnt help, although I ended up getting someone over there to buy the Abbot unit for me as well.
I was thinking about the cable x for my chevelle swap, but I have decided against it. I will be using an Aeroforce Scan Gauge on the pillar for speed until I decide to blow $500.00 on the tailshaft housing conversion.
I love seeing folks from outside of the USA on this site 
Personally, I'd wire Cable-X up to the PCM, that way you can easily correct the speedo via the PCM, without digging out the Cable-X box from behind the dashboard.
Personally, I'd wire Cable-X up to the PCM, that way you can easily correct the speedo via the PCM, without digging out the Cable-X box from behind the dashboard.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5
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From: Germany
Hi Brains,
C3 1975
LS1
T56
original Speedo
How can i correct the speedo via the PCM?
Today the Cable-X-Box is out of order...
No reaction by wiring from the T56 VSS or the Cable from the PCM...
Ideas?
Thx
Ok ok, my English is very bad...
C3 1975
LS1
T56
original Speedo
How can i correct the speedo via the PCM?
Today the Cable-X-Box is out of order...
No reaction by wiring from the T56 VSS or the Cable from the PCM...
Ideas?
Thx
Ok ok, my English is very bad...
If you have software to edit the PCM (EFILive, HPTuners, etc.) you can plug in the laptop and change the speedometer pulses from the PCM.
All standard American car speedos are 1000 revolutions per mile. Knowing that, you set the Cable-X to a known "standard" pulse count, and then change the PCM accordingly.
All standard American car speedos are 1000 revolutions per mile. Knowing that, you set the Cable-X to a known "standard" pulse count, and then change the PCM accordingly.