my s14 ls1/t56
10-04-2006, 08:02 PM
#21
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Actually, you will never see an aluminum driveshaft flex on the street. In fact they can take more punishment than any steel driveshaft. For one, they are lighter and therefore will not start vibrating and flexing as soon as a steel one will; second, they are not long enough in this application to flex as you have stated. That is why they can handle more speed than a steel driveshaft.
10-07-2006, 12:55 AM
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well the blinkers work now. i put my dash and stuff back in tonight and tryed em and they work now. im sure the hazard switch has to be pluged in for them to work cause that was the only thing not pluged up. parking lights still dont work thou. putting in the rear end tomorrow. about the only things left to do are the rear end, drive shaft, rad fan power, shifter boot (going to get one sewed up tomorrow), exhaust. and i have to make something to cover up the hole where the a/c / heater controls were. i will have to go back to install those converters for the tach and speedo when they get here. just wanted it to look like a car again. getting close.
one question: by the mafs there is a plug with 2 wires that dont go no where. we think its the intake temp sensor. on the camaro is that sensor on the air box? me and a few others are pretty sure its the intake temp sensor. just not 100%.
on more thing. is it just mine or is that walbro 255 pump loud? it sounds like a freakin pool pump.
one question: by the mafs there is a plug with 2 wires that dont go no where. we think its the intake temp sensor. on the camaro is that sensor on the air box? me and a few others are pretty sure its the intake temp sensor. just not 100%.
on more thing. is it just mine or is that walbro 255 pump loud? it sounds like a freakin pool pump.
Last edited by fouz65; 10-07-2006 at 01:17 AM.
10-09-2006, 08:50 PM
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well, i will be able to drive it wed. driveshaft will be done then. after that the only things left to do is sew up a new shifter boot, where my a/c panel was i got some alum to put there and there will be a few switches and a new check engine light, and the new sway bar brackets will be welded in tomorrow.
my intake is very close. may have to change it to 3". bleed the clutch tonight. drilled a hole in the floor, bleed it, then put a magnet strip over the hole (same stuff they use for signs on trucks), then put carpet back over it. i also put a 150 amp fuse at my battery cable since its in the trunk just to make sure there are no fires in the event some insulation gets rubbed off the cable wire (cheap insurance, seen one guy almost lose hes car over a cable wire that was slowy rubbed bare).
if i can get a video ill post it up. will be going to the dyno in a few weeks. as long as nothing goes badly wrong.
my intake is very close. may have to change it to 3". bleed the clutch tonight. drilled a hole in the floor, bleed it, then put a magnet strip over the hole (same stuff they use for signs on trucks), then put carpet back over it. i also put a 150 amp fuse at my battery cable since its in the trunk just to make sure there are no fires in the event some insulation gets rubbed off the cable wire (cheap insurance, seen one guy almost lose hes car over a cable wire that was slowy rubbed bare).
if i can get a video ill post it up. will be going to the dyno in a few weeks. as long as nothing goes badly wrong.
10-10-2006, 07:14 PM
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Do the HSC headers have O2 bungs? Are you planning to use a Y-pipe to a single exhaust pipe ala 240 style or more like Slo_240sx and duals underneath the car? Good luck with the startup! Ken
10-10-2006, 07:37 PM
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my set didnt have the o2 bungs on them. he said it was cause they were the first set and they didnt have the o2 bungs on them when they sent them off to be reproduced. was easy to put them on . muff shop give me some and i welded em on. my exhaust will be 3" then y-piped to 3 1/2" (the 3 1/2" was free so im useing it)with a home made "rice" style muffler. it will be kinda loud but it stops the high pitch poping sounds. i made one before and it sounded good on the 4 banger. we will see in a few days.
was too tired to go up there today and put in the sway bar so ill do it and driveshaft tomorrow. i hope i fixed my oil sender leak. i put some gasket sealer on it this time. apparently i dont know how to use a tap cause i did it twice and screwed up twice. only thing really to check for leaks is my cooling. aint ran the motor long enough for the motor to heat up and start cooling. just been running it for 30-60 sec periods testing my wireing.
was too tired to go up there today and put in the sway bar so ill do it and driveshaft tomorrow. i hope i fixed my oil sender leak. i put some gasket sealer on it this time. apparently i dont know how to use a tap cause i did it twice and screwed up twice. only thing really to check for leaks is my cooling. aint ran the motor long enough for the motor to heat up and start cooling. just been running it for 30-60 sec periods testing my wireing.
10-11-2006, 07:00 PM
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Cool. I will be doing a y-pipe as well to a 3" Blitz exhaust. I think it fits better with the car overall. Do you know if HSC has the y-pipe yet, or are you making your own? Ken
10-11-2006, 07:15 PM
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Almost forgot, the LS1 went to the machine shop today. Getting some forged slugs, balance job, bearing tolerances checked, align honed for the girdle, etc. I also ordered all the front accessory brackets and bolts and a FluidDamper harmonic balancer. Moving forward, slowly but surely!
10-11-2006, 09:46 PM
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i think they have one but not sure. heard s/1 say they sold em. im making my own.
well i drove it down the road for about 2 miles tonight (it was around 9:15 with open headers so i took it easy for the most part, i live in the middle of no where). i did get on it twice. once just to spin the tires once. went about a 1/2 mile and turned around. took off very slow in first to get the car rollin. shift to second and let out on the clutch to just let the car roll in second gear at a low rpm. then punch it to see if it would do ok in second. the tires break away with in a 1/2 a secondso i let off shortly after that. needless to say i think ill be very happy with the car. dyno soon and hopefully a video.
still have to cover the a/c panel and do my exhaust. clutch pedal is alittle funny. it dont spring all the way back up but works fine. but if you dont pull it back up it just gets lower and lower after about 12 times of use. you pull it back up that last inch and it goes back to normal. going to try to put another spring on the pedal. i think but not sure that my oil sender is still leaking but its a little drip of just some oil that was already on the pan and filter from old leak. will check it out for sure thou.
well i drove it down the road for about 2 miles tonight (it was around 9:15 with open headers so i took it easy for the most part, i live in the middle of no where). i did get on it twice. once just to spin the tires once. went about a 1/2 mile and turned around. took off very slow in first to get the car rollin. shift to second and let out on the clutch to just let the car roll in second gear at a low rpm. then punch it to see if it would do ok in second. the tires break away with in a 1/2 a secondso i let off shortly after that. needless to say i think ill be very happy with the car. dyno soon and hopefully a video.
still have to cover the a/c panel and do my exhaust. clutch pedal is alittle funny. it dont spring all the way back up but works fine. but if you dont pull it back up it just gets lower and lower after about 12 times of use. you pull it back up that last inch and it goes back to normal. going to try to put another spring on the pedal. i think but not sure that my oil sender is still leaking but its a little drip of just some oil that was already on the pan and filter from old leak. will check it out for sure thou.
10-12-2006, 11:29 AM
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congratulations! sounds like it has the right amount of power and will be a total blast to drive. definitely keep an eye on that oil leak, those oil pressure senders are a PITA to get right sometimes. you might want to bleed the clutch again after driving it a few times, that might help your pedal issues, and check for leaks on the lines and fittings.
10-12-2006, 06:48 PM
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drove it to my dads house about 10 miles away to makes sure everything is in order and give him a ride. i got on it pretty hard and WOW. dont spin as bad as i thought it would (that j30 rear end is worth every penny). the front of the car just pulls up about 6 to 8 inch and just goes hard. it will bring your pulse up fast. and i think i can stop wondering about our welding skills cause if something was going to break it would have by now.
one more little problem. i aint seen my fan kick in yet. i used the green fan wire to my relay but it aint came on yet. should i have used the blue wire? i have a single fan. also does anybody know what temps the two are set to kick on from the factory? the blue and green one. temps start to go up when not moving. on the road it stays right on 185-190. got up to around 200 at one point. also whats the factory temp for the pcm to shut down the engine and will this work with just basic wire hooked up?
one more little problem. i aint seen my fan kick in yet. i used the green fan wire to my relay but it aint came on yet. should i have used the blue wire? i have a single fan. also does anybody know what temps the two are set to kick on from the factory? the blue and green one. temps start to go up when not moving. on the road it stays right on 185-190. got up to around 200 at one point. also whats the factory temp for the pcm to shut down the engine and will this work with just basic wire hooked up?
10-15-2006, 12:53 PM
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the good news: i finshed most of the car. exhaust, the a/c panel, misc stuff. still no shift boot.
the bad news: after two days i think my rear end is gone. after putting the exhuast on we took it for a test drive. every shift i hear a poping sound. so im thinking the exhaust is hitting some where. we get back and try to find where. when you take off you can see the driver side output shaft rise up and you hear a pop/hit. so i guess i need something better.
the bad news: after two days i think my rear end is gone. after putting the exhuast on we took it for a test drive. every shift i hear a poping sound. so im thinking the exhaust is hitting some where. we get back and try to find where. when you take off you can see the driver side output shaft rise up and you hear a pop/hit. so i guess i need something better.
10-15-2006, 07:38 PM
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yes. thats hinsons rad kit. heres what i got from hinson. headers, rad package, oil package, fuel package, clutch package, and the intake 90. i wanted to make everything myself but the headers. more time then i wanted to spend. i didnt have any problems with hinsons. call for prices thou. some on the site are wrong.
i may shoot some pics of it tomorrow since it may be a bit longer to get a video the car running/dyno due to my rear end. it will still drive but the rear end may not last much longer. i aint looked close but it looks like the bearers around the output shaft. i may put my open rear end back in it till i find a really good one.
also. where is a good place to get a bullet proof rear end? at a fair price.
i may shoot some pics of it tomorrow since it may be a bit longer to get a video the car running/dyno due to my rear end. it will still drive but the rear end may not last much longer. i aint looked close but it looks like the bearers around the output shaft. i may put my open rear end back in it till i find a really good one.
also. where is a good place to get a bullet proof rear end? at a fair price.
10-15-2006, 08:16 PM
#36
anyone who can install a clutch pack diff into a R200 can qualify. I would get something like the Kaaz 2 way or 1.5 depending on how you drive. That wont brake. Maybe axles but not the diff. Axles can be bought at Driveshaft Shop.
10-15-2006, 08:45 PM
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maybe i can just replace the bearers if thats indeed what happened. it still pulls (i think) but just looks like play in the output bearings. i wont be drifting in the car (maybe alittle playing but no real drifting). it just a street car. something i drive daily and can take to the strip a few times. and smoke most of the cars i may see. most of the cars around here are hondas with farts cans. speaking of which. i drove it to town to get a power steering line and at the red light a civic pulled up next to me (i was still running open headers) with rims and exhaust and he didnt even look over at me. i know he heard it.
btw: chin, i had a bad fuel leak. some line coming from the drive side of the gas tank (dunno know what it went to) but it was pouring gas. had me scared of my gasmilage.
btw: chin, i had a bad fuel leak. some line coming from the drive side of the gas tank (dunno know what it went to) but it was pouring gas. had me scared of my gasmilage.
10-15-2006, 09:24 PM
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would you happen to have pics of your subframe i/e where you made the adjustments to work with the caulked mounts? also how did the clutch setup work out for you. last i heard it wasnt exactly a bolt in operation.
10-15-2006, 09:47 PM
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no its not a bolt-on. but as far as i know its the only way to go so your stuck with it. ill take some pics tomorrow (the best i can) and try to show the subframe. only 2 changes. the notch where i cut it for the oil pan (mine is the same as chins) and we had to make the stock mount locations wider for the u-bracket to sit on. was so scared of our welding skills but it has took one hell of a beating so far. ill get some pics for you. but i will say this. im not sure/saying my way is the easiest way. cause i had to have almost everything together to place the motor where i wanted it then pull it to drill holes for the mounts. and i still got off on one of them by about 1/8" (no big deal). and i had a real welder weld up the u-brackets cause they are long. 5" high and 5" wide.
you may be able to see it in my pics. 12th pic down and zoom in. ill try to get alot tomorrow.
btw: im very pleased with the stock mounts packed out. has very little movement but moves just enough to see its moving.
you may be able to see it in my pics. 12th pic down and zoom in. ill try to get alot tomorrow.
btw: im very pleased with the stock mounts packed out. has very little movement but moves just enough to see its moving.
10-15-2006, 11:23 PM
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cool deal dude. ive been taking my time doing my setup and just feeding off what info comes into this swap every week it seems. ive been taking alot of pics but im still tearing the motor out of the z28 i picked up. but im a picture ***** so i will take an assload of pictures guaranteed.