Procedure for first startup
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 166
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From: Stockholm, Sweden
Procedure for first startup I am about to crank my engine for the first time and I would like to share my thoughts on that. It might be a good subject for the stickies. I did a search for this but didn't come up with anything.
So here is my plan.
1. Turn on the system and change the VATS and other parameters.
2. Remove the ignitioncoil fuses and crank the engine to build up oilpressure.
3. Hotwire the fuelpump to build pressure and bleed the rails.
4. Replace the ignitioncoil fuses and start the engine.
5. Big grin on my face.
Is there anything else to think of?
Jan
So here is my plan.
1. Turn on the system and change the VATS and other parameters.
2. Remove the ignitioncoil fuses and crank the engine to build up oilpressure.
3. Hotwire the fuelpump to build pressure and bleed the rails.
4. Replace the ignitioncoil fuses and start the engine.
5. Big grin on my face.
Is there anything else to think of?
Jan
Does anyone bother using one of those priming tools to prime everything with oil? I think it's a pneumatic tool. I would like to know where to buy one and how much they normally cost - is it worth it?
You can build up pressure in your fuel rails by just turning the ignition on for a few seconds and then off again - repeat this a couple of times until your pressure is around 50psi. Before firing up, while the pressure is still here, go over your fuel lines and look for leaks at the fittings and elsewhere.
You can build up pressure in your fuel rails by just turning the ignition on for a few seconds and then off again - repeat this a couple of times until your pressure is around 50psi. Before firing up, while the pressure is still here, go over your fuel lines and look for leaks at the fittings and elsewhere.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Stockholm, Sweden
Originally Posted by Skele4door
In step #2 you might want to pull the spark plugs as well. That way you won't have any compression.
Thanks, that is a good idea.
Originally Posted by Andy1
How do you bleed the fuel rails?
Andy1
Andy1
Jan
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
Like Shifty` said, don`t even bother hot wiring the fuel pump. Every time you turn the ignition on the fuel pump will run for 2 seconds. I just turned the ignition on and after the pump shut off I depressed the schrader valve on the fuel rail to release the air. I did that 3 times, but after the second time there was no air in the lines.
I didn`t even worry about priming the oil, I made sure to put the oil filter on full of oil and then I just started the engine. The engine didn`t even crank for 1 full revolution before it started and I had oil pressure within 10 seconds.
I didn`t even worry about priming the oil, I made sure to put the oil filter on full of oil and then I just started the engine. The engine didn`t even crank for 1 full revolution before it started and I had oil pressure within 10 seconds.
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TECH Resident
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 792
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by G-Body
I didn`t even worry about priming the oil, I made sure to put the oil filter on full of oil and then I just started the engine. The engine didn`t even crank for 1 full revolution before it started and I had oil pressure within 10 seconds.
Andy1
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 166
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From: Stockholm, Sweden
Originally Posted by Andy1
10 seconds is much too long for a first time start up. Even a previously run motor that's sat around a while should be primed and at minimum; turned over without ignition and plugs until oil pressure is confirmed.
Andy1
Andy1
Mine has been dry for over a year and I will not risk anything.
Thanks for all advice.
Jan
On a same but different subject. it seem that GenIII's that have been sitting around for a while seem to have problems starting up and having low or zero pressure. Am I alone on this ?
I am beginning to think that the "High-Efficiency" Gerotor design (let alone the O-Ring problems) is just not a good one for long term storage ?? you can take a SBC that has been setting for years and it will start pumping without too much hesitation or delay.
Cranking to build pressure for any long term may hurt the bearing.. but maybe the lessor of running without pressure. ?
My pullout engine has been setting around for 11 month before I fired it up. It didn't have any pressure to the top end and I turned it off. Taking the engine out, I could find nothing wrong (O-Ring or the pump), oil passage were clear, there was oil in the filter (had some pressure when I unscrewed it, like it was getting oil pressure).. so I have now picked up a new LS6 pump, filled it with STP (didn't like the Idea of using grease and normal oil would not stay in place long) and will drop the engine back in this weekend and see if I get pressure.
Anyone hear of problems wtih low pressure to the cam/lifter and rockers ? But ok pressure at the bottom end ? Just thinking...
my 2 cents..due to a lot of extra work...
I am beginning to think that the "High-Efficiency" Gerotor design (let alone the O-Ring problems) is just not a good one for long term storage ?? you can take a SBC that has been setting for years and it will start pumping without too much hesitation or delay.
Cranking to build pressure for any long term may hurt the bearing.. but maybe the lessor of running without pressure. ?
My pullout engine has been setting around for 11 month before I fired it up. It didn't have any pressure to the top end and I turned it off. Taking the engine out, I could find nothing wrong (O-Ring or the pump), oil passage were clear, there was oil in the filter (had some pressure when I unscrewed it, like it was getting oil pressure).. so I have now picked up a new LS6 pump, filled it with STP (didn't like the Idea of using grease and normal oil would not stay in place long) and will drop the engine back in this weekend and see if I get pressure.
Anyone hear of problems wtih low pressure to the cam/lifter and rockers ? But ok pressure at the bottom end ? Just thinking...
my 2 cents..due to a lot of extra work...
But how can you tell if it's a dry engine.
And does anyone have any info about how to prime things up, as I asked earlier, you know, using external tools?
Just curious - I hope to fire first time before the end of the month
And does anyone have any info about how to prime things up, as I asked earlier, you know, using external tools?
Just curious - I hope to fire first time before the end of the month
Like G-body I just filled the oil filter ran fuel to the rails and fired right up and the new autometer gauge started seeing pressure right away ....................then I smoked the old bias ply tires that were on the back
Shifty, With the GenIII GeRoter type pump.. there are no tools to use like the SBC or BBC's where you can put the dist. and use the priming rod to the pump.. so we are left with two choices (maybe a 3rd).. Remove power to the PCM and fuel pump, remove the plugs and crank until there is pressure or just start it up and hope ...
Even with the external pressure oiler.. I'm not sure it would even prime the whole system, that being all the way up to the Lifter and Rockers.
Even with the external pressure oiler.. I'm not sure it would even prime the whole system, that being all the way up to the Lifter and Rockers.
Some of the crate motors take FOREVER to build up very much pressure up top. On my buddy's LQ9 S10 swap he sent the motor back once, they rebuilt the oil pump, then checked the oil pressure and it was fine. WE got it back and still no oil coming up through the heads. Finally called Leo at GMR Speed (he didnt sell us the motor) and he said it has pressure down low but up top takes a while sometimes just let it run and it will build up pressure (about 10 minutes believe it or not). Truck ran perfect all year, sprayed it, put a new cam in it and raced it constantly with no problems.
Boy.. that is a hard thing to do. Let it run with all of the noise from the valves and rocker. I start my motor up three times before pulling it apart. Each time I never let it run more than 10-15 sec for fear of hurting the engine. I guess I will have to shut my ears if the pressure doesn't get up within the 1st few second (or minutes !!??) and hope nothing breaks down.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info.
Last edited by bczee; Oct 13, 2006 at 01:36 AM. Reason: more text
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
I wasn`t too worried about starting my motor and not priming it since I am pretty sure the motor only sat for 3 months. I had some (~20psi) of oil pressure by the time I let go of the key, but it might have taken 10 seconds to build up to full pressure (45-50psi). It didn`t really seem like a big deal to me since if you just put an empty oil filter on when you do an oil change it would run longer without pressure, and I know most oil change places don`t pre-fill the filter and a lot of backyard mechanics don`t know that they should prefill it.
I would definently prime the motor if it had sat for a long time.
I would definently prime the motor if it had sat for a long time.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 238
Likes: 1
Just below the oil filter is a plate covering two holes. Remove it and drill and tap a piece of aluminum to accept a small barbed fitting. The hole should be drilled so that it is over one of the holes in the block. Get a cheap oil pump sold at auto stores for filling transmission and diffs. Pump oil into the first hole until you feel the pressure build up then crank the engine over and repeat the process. Swap ends on the plate so the fitting is over the second hole and repeat the above. This will fill all the oil galleries and pump oil throughout the entire engine.