Slo_240sx

iTrader: (17)

Oh wtf. All of that work to find it its broke? Damn man, time for an LS2 block.

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

ls2 indeed would be nice. however in SETX finding an ls1 isnt really all that hard. just gotta know who to talk to. so i really only consider this a minor set back. but you just never know. either way this project will be finished.

GTOpowered240sx

iTrader: (1)

That sucks! Mine was in a bad wreck also. one of the valve covers took a hit also. I may be in the same boat! Man I hope not.

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

**** happens man...

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

for those that keep asking me wtf im doing with all this time i seem to have lol

Custom "Racecar" interior


Battery Relocation (Honda Optima, gutted dash)


Custom Cluster (yes no speedo, they are useless)



Custom Fuse Panel relocation thingy (massive engine bay wire tuck)


Pretty normal looking interior once its all buttoned up and such.


still got a few things left to do before i declare it done but just dont have the time like i did before so it will take forever like anything else worth having =]

NismoSilvia270R

iTrader: (1)

sweet. i need to come up with some kinda fuse panel too. using the existing ka24 relay box and harness will be sketchy...

is that an inhouse shift ****?

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

mm honestly if was to do it again i would have removed the harness from the engine bay and ran the fuse panel inside the car and shortened the wires and used the oem fuse box and mounted on the firewall, but i said **** that..

everything on this car is in house, cluster, ****, shifter panel etc.

lathe > *

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

Are you going to be competing with the car? Just curious for I think they'll want you running a sealed battery box vented to the outside of the car. I know I've heard of some of those Optima's bubbling out before.

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

only regular car batteries, the kind with the maintenance tops on them have to be in a box with a vent tube. optimas dont. atleast last i heard.

mmdb

iTrader: (1)

Is there a reason you've put the battery in the front of the car rather than the back? I think the car's overall balance would benefit having the battery on the passenger side of the trunk.

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

the car is gutted also that 51r group battery weights all of maybe 20 lbs. its a drift/road car. if i where drag racing then maybe but in the real world that trivial amount of weight doesn't help shift any weight.with coilovers there is no drag race launching and with a welded diff im not going to gain any more traction by having the weight of the battery over the normal first to hook wheel. properly tuned suspension can tune out all that weight shifting or just as easily create more shift. now if i had a 65-78 group the weight is alot more significant at about 50-60 lbs then we have a problem. the main reason i did my battery this way is to reduce the need for 50 feet of wire. shorter wire is always better.

owen v8litew8

oh man never read your "motor fawked" post from 5/1/07 until now, ouch.
sorry for the delays, hope you get it up and running soon.

nice work on the shifter... but uh, battery in the dash? now that a new one! cool. pfffffffffff, might as well use a 9pound odyssey battery.

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

in the works. i got this optima from work used for like 10 dollars so im rocking it till it gives up lol. the odyssey ill more then likely mount on the pass firewall.

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

update. had the day off and decided to learn how to make ****. so me and rob made a gauge panel. needs lil more sanding and paint but i think it came out pretty good. very easy to make at that.

First get a hot glue gun and some GOOD glue. the normal white **** doesnt hold very well. get the black or this yellow **** we found at harbor freight. if you arnt spending almost 10 dolalrs for a pack its not the right ****.



Next goto M&D or some **** and get some pvc that fits your gauge pretty snug. long tubes helps because you can angle them and then tape them together to get the correct distance apart and what ever and then just cut them later.



Next glue them in place and start inside outside feeding your tack cloth. tack cloth goes for about 10 bux a yard but you barely need a square foot for this.



after you got it all held in place start laying on resin with a brush. go buy some binder clips for this part because its the only thing that will hold the tack cloth in place over the object since it has to be stretched really tight. also buy some cheap *** brushes for like a dollar from family dollar cause they are dead after the first coat. we also used some tight fitting rings to hold the cloth inside the pvc to give it the curve in look.




After the first coat dries, remove the binder clips and resin over the areas you missed because of them. apply a second coat for added thickness

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

Once the second coat is dry you can begin sanding and painting and ****

fouz65

thanks for the pics/write up the gauges. im might have to make something like that.

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

yea man. had i known it was this easy before i would have made my own **** long time ago