Another LS14 Project.
Originally Posted by datboibrad
4 stacked or just around the perimeter even to ensure all sides are even
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2 .007 at the bottom and push the pump all the way up. Automatically centered. Why may I ask not to lube the rear main? Putting seals on dry prematurely burns them up. Are you talking around the outside perimeter?
Originally Posted by Slo_240sx
2 .007 at the bottom and push the pump all the way up. Automatically centered.
In the book "How to Build High-Perfomance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s" by Will Handzel on page 94 towards the lower right corner picture he speaks of how to center the pump. The step before this speaks of how you should place a few drops of engine oil onto the crank snount and put the oil pump into place and then install two of the four bolts tightened to 45 in-lbs:
29. GM sells a special tool to center the oil pump, but there's an easy way to get this done without buying the tool. Slide two 0.002-inch thick feeler gauges far enough into the pump so they are between the pump body and crank snount 180 degrees apart. Sweep the feeler gauges around the snout diameter - this will center the oil pump on the crank snount - while keeping them 180 degrees apart. With the feeler gauges still in the place, apply two drops of red Loctite to the uninstalled bolts and torque them to 18 ft-lbs to lock the pump in place. Now, remove the initial torqued bolts, apply Loctite, and reinstall at 18 ft-lbs.
Originally Posted by owen v8litew8
just remember to NOT lube the rear main seal upon reassembly!!!!!!!!!!!
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Originally Posted by Ted J
Where did you get the .007" spec at? From what you speak of above the pump will now be .005 to low and will cause uneven wear in the pump.
In the book "How to Build High-Perfomance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s" by Will Handzel on page 94 towards the lower right corner picture he speaks of how to center the pump. The step before this speaks of how you should place a few drops of engine oil onto the crank snount and put the oil pump into place and then install two of the four bolts tightened to 45 in-lbs:
In the book "How to Build High-Perfomance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s" by Will Handzel on page 94 towards the lower right corner picture he speaks of how to center the pump. The step before this speaks of how you should place a few drops of engine oil onto the crank snount and put the oil pump into place and then install two of the four bolts tightened to 45 in-lbs:
Originally Posted by Slo_240sx
Oopsie! I meant .002! use 2 at the bottom and push the pump all the way up, but yes its .002 all around. Who has the tool to install the rear main? My engine may be going back in this weekend!
http://www.w2wpowertrain.com/pc-104-...tall-tool.aspx
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Originally Posted by Ted J
You are going to have to expand on that. I don't see why you would not want to lube it. Now, installing the rear cover and seal without the tool to ensure that the bi-directional seal doesn't get folded over I can see but installing it without motor oil on it sounds like you are asking for trouble.
seriously.
Ive read it and its a fact... but it comes as a surprise to many people since it is the exact opposite of most other motors we've all seen.
what happens if you do lube it?
hey funny you should ask... that happened to NyToy when he had a trusted builder refresh his shortblock last year... after we got the swap back into his rx7, we fired it up and it was spewing oil out of the back of the motor... he couldnt figure it out immediately but then RxBen told him to ask the builder about NOT lubing the rear main seal, since RxBen rebuilt his own LS1 and saw the process for the seal in the manual... sure enough the builder had lubed it up like you would on a SBC or most any other motor! FAWK! so NyToy and I had to pull the swap AGAIN to separate the trans and put in a NEW rear main seal without any lube and it was fine from then on... what a waste of time, so please learn from the mistakes of others! it was a major headache.
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From: Detroit, MI - Camp Pendleton, CA
Wow is that fauking GAY!!! Whew, I almost install every rear main... *EVERY seal* lubed up. The rear cover is off the engine so I think i'll be okay without the tool. Its very expensive but what do you expect from W2W? They are a few miles away from me too they build some bad *** cars. Pricey, not worth it to me. Thanks for the heads up Owen lol :thumbs up:
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no problemmo man, they did a good job of impoving on motor design when they worked on the LSx series and some of the things seems strange yet offers a much better end product.
if you eyeball the rear cover when you install it and just use a straightedge to make sure it sits flush with the bottom edge of the block, so it seats against the oilpan with no gap or lip sticking down, you will be fine.
if you eyeball the rear cover when you install it and just use a straightedge to make sure it sits flush with the bottom edge of the block, so it seats against the oilpan with no gap or lip sticking down, you will be fine.
Pics of new parts
Donated LS6 manifold!
i have a gto oil pan setup and arp bolts for the motor in the mail I need to orer an oil pump (not sure form who tho, everyone says they are the same) and bearings to get this motor back together. although if i sell some other parts i might just buy a set of slugs and shoot for real hp (500+, on the bottle).
if anyone has any adivce on sizing bearings id appreciate it. im curious as to how i would do it with the factory bolts that are one time use i/e they wont touqre the same again so you cant read tolerances/wear. i guess i have to wait till i get the arp bolts in to be able to measure and determine what bearings i need? or can i just simply buy a set?
Donated LS6 manifold!
i have a gto oil pan setup and arp bolts for the motor in the mail I need to orer an oil pump (not sure form who tho, everyone says they are the same) and bearings to get this motor back together. although if i sell some other parts i might just buy a set of slugs and shoot for real hp (500+, on the bottle).
if anyone has any adivce on sizing bearings id appreciate it. im curious as to how i would do it with the factory bolts that are one time use i/e they wont touqre the same again so you cant read tolerances/wear. i guess i have to wait till i get the arp bolts in to be able to measure and determine what bearings i need? or can i just simply buy a set?
hey quick question guys. i pulled the obd2 port from the camaro with the intent of using it on my s14 which isnt obd2. does this plug wire into the engine harness somewhere or does anyone have a diagram of what each wire is for so i could wire it up?
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From: NC
ive seen an s14 ls1 conv before, on pinks? not sure, it was teh fastness
think the site was www.ls1project.com
im too lazy to try to find it
but props on the sleeper
think the site was www.ls1project.com
im too lazy to try to find it
but props on the sleeper
Teching In
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From: NC
k
Originally Posted by 04Ranger
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From: Detroit, MI - Camp Pendleton, CA
Brad you gotta wire in the connector via the sticky up at the top. Worked out great for me, even got it tuned by LS1 edit
That car on Pinks was an S13 BTW.
That car on Pinks was an S13 BTW.
