Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 08:15 AM
  #81  
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:.( be nice! hahaha
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 09:03 AM
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hey man, good luck on your set-up. ive been contemplating this swap myself but keep finding a reason not to do it. i have no where near the knowledge about cars as you seem to, i guess thats the deciding factor on one of these jobs. once again good luck and post more pics of the swap.
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 03:36 PM
  #83  
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well i dont like to consider myself all that knowledgeable but i will say this. you reach a point in your time of ******* with cars that you realize all things are relavent and anything is possible if you have time more so than money. it helps that others have done it. but honestly if you can put a motor into just about anything this isnt exactly rocket science since you know the bare essentials a motor needs to be able to operate on any frame. so like i said all things being relavent there is no real talent involved here. either that or im just being overly modest
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Slo_240sx
Wow is that fauking GAY!!! Whew, I almost install every rear main... *EVERY seal* lubed up. The rear cover is off the engine so I think i'll be okay without the tool. Its very expensive but what do you expect from W2W? They are a few miles away from me too they build some bad *** cars. Pricey, not worth it to me. Thanks for the heads up Owen lol :thumbs up:
The main purpose of the installation tools is to center the seal on the crank and not damage the seal lip as it is installed. From all the reading I have done, if the seal is not centered, then a leak will develop. Ken.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 09:09 AM
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so i forgot i needed a transmission for this swap to work....so i bought one hahaha. seriously tho who ever the hell said the t56 was heavier than any of the nissan transmissions is full of ****. this transmission is lighter and easier to pick up than my old sr or current ka tranny. not to mention being about close to a foot shorter.


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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 09:54 AM
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Its a 146 Lbs if I rember correctly. The 240 tranny is around 88 lbs. Both dry on the inside.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by datboibrad
so i forgot i needed a transmission for this swap to work....so i bought one hahaha. seriously tho who ever the hell said the t56 was heavier than any of the nissan transmissions is full of ****. this transmission is lighter and easier to pick up than my old sr or current ka tranny. not to mention being about close to a foot shorter.
Are you comparing it to a 5 spd or an auto tranny?

I weighed the 5 spd behind the KA24 I pulled out of my S13 and it was 95 lbs and that included the bell housing. The shipping weights I've seen people put up and them measuring them say the F-body T56 is around 127 to 130 lbs and I think that is without the bellhousing but I'm not 100% sure on that. I carried a F-body T56 with a friend of mine and it was pretty heavy but I was able to carry the KA24's 5 spd all by myself.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 10:23 AM
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ok with this t56 full of fluid i was able to pick it up ALOT easier and move it around faster than any of the SR and KA trannies ive had. i do understand its shorter but honestly do beleive them to be within 20lb range of each other.

maybe ive just doubled in strength in like 2 months from the last nissan tranny i handled but seeing as how im still 5'11" 135lbs i doubt that very seriously.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 03:30 PM
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lol

t56 is heavier

because its manly.
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 10:20 AM
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rofl. nice av mike
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 11:35 AM
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i thought it looked nifty. it was taken at sonoma, right after i did a 360 after my qualifying runs, which resulted in a fine.
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mikespeed95
i thought it looked nifty. it was taken at sonoma, right after i did a 360 after my qualifying runs, which resulted in a fine.
aww thats gay. another reason why FD blows
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 06:08 PM
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decided to stay true to my nature of a pic ***** and snap off some shots for those of you who still care lol.


I currently have half the motor apart. two stripped head rocker studs on the driver stud put that side of the motor to a hault till i get one of those special sockets for it.










stock sleeves look good and still have the cross hatching i assume from the factory still visible (cant see in pic)



Now here is what shocked me that i didnt notice right off. This motor has the "windowed main cap" design. according to a book i have on these motors thats a sign of an 01+ block? please tell me if im wrong because originally this was assumed a 98 ls1 because of the donor chassis. but as shown below the heads are 241 casting which are off 99's? so what the frankenstien do i actually have???







Pulled the 1st the rods from the passenger side of the block and to my amazement the bearings are flawless. im still going to replace them jsut because i have to have new things to remove any doubts.




and of course the good ol t-56 in the corner minding its business


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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:08 PM
  #94  
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my 02 motor has 241 heads and the main caps look identical.... what exactly distinguishes the "windowed" main caps from previous motors?
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:19 PM
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if you notice the main caps have little rectangle "windows" cut into them which allows the crankcase to breathe better under high rpm loads.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:26 PM
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You probably have a '99 LS1 engine. The 241 heads are standard LS1 with the oval exhaust ports. With the 4 bolt center valve cover bolts, it would make it a '99+. '97 - '98 have seven bolt perimiter bolt pattern valve covers. If the donor vehicle was a late '98, then it is conceivable it had a '99 motor as the '98 motors ran out and the '99 begun production ramped up. The crank main bolt windows are machined and were standard through '00.
You can probably verify with your local Chevy dealer with the VIN from the donor car.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:40 PM
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so why wouldnt it be possible to be a 00+? like ive said before im 100% sure this isnt the original motor mainly becase of the junkyard tagging it has everywhere.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:47 PM
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ok i just googled the number on my ecu and it says its a 98 ecu. so hows that work out.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by datboibrad
if you notice the main caps have little rectangle "windows" cut into them which allows the crankcase to breathe better under high rpm loads.
I think the later years, don't know when the cut off is for when they started it, have holes also cast into the block at the base of the main caps to aid with crankcase breathing on top of what you pictured.

BTW, I just looked up the casting number that your block has on it and the 1259378 is listed in the book I have as the block they used on the '00, '01, and '02 F-bodies.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:53 PM
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sounds about right to me
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