Ecotec + T56?
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From: Hazard Co. Maryland
Originally Posted by 99c5vert
16" wheels on the street is nice... you can't find bigger than 225 for 15" wheels.
Most Sevens go with 15" street and 13" track wheels.
Most Sevens go with 15" street and 13" track wheels.
The biggest thing that I need to solve is the front suspension and work from there. Obviously picking a wheel and tire combo for tracking/auto-xing and then "living" with that suspension on the street.
What brake options am I looking at with the 13" wheel option. I'm assuming that when you size up track tires for those applications most of the time they'll end up as tall as the 15" low pros.?
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the 13" with racing slicks don't add up to 15" low profiles... the overall diameters are smaller. Typically the cars lose ground clearance and gain in gear ratio on the 13" slicks.
You don't need a super stiff suspension necessarily. I made that mistake, and may switch to softer springs down the road. Adjustable shocks will help with ride quality (street vs. track) too.
The thing about sticking with smaller wheels and brakes is the weight savings... those are rotating unsprung parts, so weight savings there REALLY matter.
Mine uses front uprights from a 74 Toyota Corona
Doesn't sound very impressive, but it does the job.
You don't need a super stiff suspension necessarily. I made that mistake, and may switch to softer springs down the road. Adjustable shocks will help with ride quality (street vs. track) too.
The thing about sticking with smaller wheels and brakes is the weight savings... those are rotating unsprung parts, so weight savings there REALLY matter.
Mine uses front uprights from a 74 Toyota Corona
Doesn't sound very impressive, but it does the job. Thread Starter
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From: Hazard Co. Maryland
Hum, ok.
I'm thinking about going inboard on the shocks to help with the unsprung weight issue. I'm marginally concerned about a rough ride (in that if I had fillings, I'd still want to have them).
I realise about the loss of ground clearance and gain in gear ratio (already thought about both of those actually). Fortunately, I have a few buddies that are Mech Es and I remember enough from when I was one to work on getting things done right.
I saw were someone basically fabbed their own upright out of round tube and bar stock.
EDIT: Another shot...
I'm thinking about going inboard on the shocks to help with the unsprung weight issue. I'm marginally concerned about a rough ride (in that if I had fillings, I'd still want to have them).
I realise about the loss of ground clearance and gain in gear ratio (already thought about both of those actually). Fortunately, I have a few buddies that are Mech Es and I remember enough from when I was one to work on getting things done right.
I saw were someone basically fabbed their own upright out of round tube and bar stock.
EDIT: Another shot...
Last edited by sb427f-car; Dec 15, 2006 at 04:13 PM.
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nice setup on the upright...
my old rotus has inboard front suspension. if I were designing it, i'd keep it outboard. unless you're going to super small shock spring package, you won't save anything (remember the extra tube and rocker arm).
also, inboard creates a packaging issue, and makes it a little harder to adjust shocks.
The main advantage of inboards is aerodyamics - which is pointless on a 7
my old rotus has inboard front suspension. if I were designing it, i'd keep it outboard. unless you're going to super small shock spring package, you won't save anything (remember the extra tube and rocker arm).
also, inboard creates a packaging issue, and makes it a little harder to adjust shocks.
The main advantage of inboards is aerodyamics - which is pointless on a 7
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that looks a nice set up but i think inbounds are a little ott unless its an all out racer! a nice outboard set up will work fine. also as said before, let you have good acsess to the shock/springs.
thanks Chris.
thanks Chris.
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Aaron, also, on designing your upright, it's probably more desirable to put the front calipers behind the center line of the wheel, half way up... lower center of gravity and lower moment of inertia (for the car) than the setup shown... If you look at most performance cars, you'll notice calipers are towards the middle of the car (front and rear)
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From: Hazard Co. Maryland
haha, I actually snagged that off of whittlebeast (from the usa and uk boards). It's from his A Mod cart. Hey, I'm not here to reinvent the wheel, just trying to cover ALL my basis. Unfortunately, I don't have shots to see how he did his bearings and spindles.
As far as brakes, yes I know what you mean about trying to get your weights as central as possible.
True on the inboard shocks...eass of getting to for adjustability is more important than weight to an extent.
As far as brakes, yes I know what you mean about trying to get your weights as central as possible.
True on the inboard shocks...eass of getting to for adjustability is more important than weight to an extent.
Thread Starter
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From: Hazard Co. Maryland
Originally Posted by 99c5vert
I bought my LS1-T56 combo for $4300... not a bargain (alot of people have done better here). Mine included PCM programming, the mating harness and all the misc parts, including a Hurst shifter, and 6 month warranty. I called the guy back several times in the next 6 weeks after the sale, and he was extremely helpful in providing odds and ends (like connectors, etc...) that I needed. For me, the little things were worth the extra few hundred.
I *think* the Ecotec will be significantly cheaper. That engine is a very good choice for your project IMO.
I *think* the Ecotec will be significantly cheaper. That engine is a very good choice for your project IMO.
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From: Hazard Co. Maryland
Originally Posted by 99c5vert
eBay is the enemy of my savings account
I'd really like to pay my car off (which I could do today if I had or wanted to). ugh, the decisions of life.
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From: Hazard Co. Maryland
Originally Posted by sb427f-car
Seriously. I'm REALLY questioning if I should buy it or not. It's just gonna sit around for right now, but if I get it, then I'll be more tempted to build this sucker.
I'd really like to pay my car off (which I could do today if I had or wanted to). ugh, the decisions of life.
I'd really like to pay my car off (which I could do today if I had or wanted to). ugh, the decisions of life.
I wanted to update this thread with books and what not...
Currently reading competition car suspension, a practicle guide, 4th edition by Alan Staniforth.
I have a few others to get to: Engineering to Win: Racecar Dynamics, Chassis Engineering.
If anyone else has some good race prep books, I'd love to know about them. Same goes for frame deisign.
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From: Hazard Co. Maryland
Originally Posted by BanditTA
Use a L67 (SC 3800) from a Regal GS or Grand Prix GTP lots of the J-body guys drop those into their cavys and are running low 12's. Cam and intercool the 3800 and your into the 10's.
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i still think supercharged ectoec. get it making 250+bhp and get the weight as you can! alternatively go bike power and a turbo 350bhp and you get a 6speed sequnetial box to boot!
its tried and tested to work and work VERY well!
Chris.
its tried and tested to work and work VERY well!
Chris.
Thread Starter
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From: Hazard Co. Maryland
Bike engine = classed in SCCA auto-x A mod (top dog class), and not something I want to get mixed up in. The more I think about this build...the more I see rat rod meets ledgendary sports car.
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Hum, here's a bump for someone that asked about a Stalker...
Re-reading this has refocused me as well...man, how plans quickly change or get lost in the muddied waters of over planning.
Re-reading this has refocused me as well...man, how plans quickly change or get lost in the muddied waters of over planning.
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...oh and heres a couple of pages for you to have a look see at. 
http://www.zcars.org.uk/mini/index.htm
& the spacefreamed version....
http://www.zcars.org.uk/montecarlo/index.htm
Chris.
http://www.zcars.org.uk/mini/index.htm
& the spacefreamed version....
http://www.zcars.org.uk/montecarlo/index.htm
Chris.