99c5vert

Engine was easy... T56 required grinder and sawzall

sb427f-car

Think it would have fit better in a +442 chassis?

slow4dr

iTrader: (5)

Very interesting read. It definitely hits home with me and my current project. I am having the same decision dilemmas as you are. I am building a 63 Nova that I plan to keep under 2500 lbs with me in it. I am shooting for 400WHP-350WTQ on pump gas and I am leaning more and more towards the 2.4 ecotec every day.

Food for thought. The Aisin tranny that comes in the Solstice/Sky is the same tranny some LS2 conversion companies use. http://www.mallettcars.com/solstice-conversion.htm They do have the T56 "upgrade" but I have spoke to them and they have said the little Aisin tranny has done very well so far. If it handles that amount of torque then we shouldn't have any issues even with a turbo ecotec.

Another thing I really like about the ecotec is the injector bungs are built into the head so making a custom intake manifold is VERY easy.

I have seen complete 2.4 engines and tranny's with harness on ebay for $2000 USD with less than 5000 miles on them.

Here are some pics I took of the garrett GT28 turbo kit sitting on a 2.4 in our race shop.

sb427f-car

Thanks...I've really come to the determination though that I do NOT want to get into the whole turbo thing, especially if I plan on doing A LOT of Auto-xing. Give me a naturally aspirated 4 or 8 to keep the cost, complexity, and maintance down.

Note to anyone else...if you happen across one of the 2.4 L Ecotecs on ebay or elsewhere for a price about the same as this...PLEASE, let me know.

Wait...you work for Gale Banks?

I'm still wondering what the price difference will be to step it up to the LSX though. Probably at least 1000 more.

Ugh...you just didn't make it any easier.

slow4dr

iTrader: (5)

Yep, I am at Banks. Going N/A with the Ecotec should be very cost effective. I would think at least $2000 cheaper than the LS1. That's providing you actually find a good low mileage LS1/T56 for $4000 which is unheard of.


Check this guys ebay store for engines. There aren't any ecotec's listed right now but he is close to the factory and he has them often and they always have a "buy it now" price of $2000. "schramautoparts" I would guess if you sent him a message he would actually have one because I haven't seen one actually sell yet.


If you do decide to use the LSJ(2.0 S/C) keep in mind that you will have firewall clearance issues with the inlet of the S/C. I had orginally planned on running a twin charged set-up on the 2.4 but I quickly realized that the S/C inlet sticks out way to far for my chassis. I guess if you got creative you could rearrange the snout of the S/C and put a 180 elbow on it.


I am pretty sure we have exhaust flanges here for someone wanting to make a header.

sb427f-car

Well...making a "bonnet" that'll clear the s/c isn't too much of a worry. I'll have to look into that connection on ebay then. Though...I think that I've even ruled out the supercharge (and that would have been an upgrade).

My biggest concerns in doing this are steering rack, front uprights, and spindles. Then the braking package. Those are the items most critical to handling and living...

Actually just doing some reading on locostusa.com, I'm now wondering if I want to do a watts or mumford link rear...The three link is definately the way to go as far as suspension though.

So, a Banks question...how kick *** is that Cummins Dakota? Yall still doing any testing and development with it Steve? And what's the Ecotec with the garret going into? Streamliner?

-Aaron

99c5vert

I bought my LS1-T56 combo for $4300... not a bargain (alot of people have done better here). Mine included PCM programming, the mating harness and all the misc parts, including a Hurst shifter, and 6 month warranty. I called the guy back several times in the next 6 weeks after the sale, and he was extremely helpful in providing odds and ends (like connectors, etc...) that I needed. For me, the little things were worth the extra few hundred.

I *think* the Ecotec will be significantly cheaper. That engine is a very good choice for your project IMO.

sb427f-car

****...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-3L-...47455132QQrdZ1

sb427f-car

I agree either is a good choice. I don't know what I want yet. Nothing says I can't rip the engine out and go the other route if I want to.

I just don't know yet.

slow4dr

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, my steering was tight and I don't even have the damn engine yet. Luckily the engine isn't very tall so it will go on top of the cross member pretty easily. I played it safe and went with a C4 vette front end. This way parts availability is on my side especially with brake upgrades.

Check out the pics in my sig. I am also going to use a 3-link with a watts.

The dakota is pretty wild. You'd never know what hit you if it pulled up to the light with you, quiet as can be and doesn't blow any smoke. I believe the engine is out of it right now for a rebuild but it is kept close by in case Gale wants to drive it.

The plans for the Ecotec so far are to test the limits of the motor. Gale has worked with Brammo Motorsports(people who make/sell the Ariel Atom state side) on supplying them with ecotec engines. This is the main reason we have exhaust flanges because we have already made a header for one of them.


-Jason

sb427f-car

Cool, thanks Jason. If I'm ever out in Cali, I'll let ya know, maybe a shop tour hook up?

slow4dr

iTrader: (5)

Absolutely, juts give me a days notice.

sb427f-car

Oh yeah, and definately a few beers in return.

99c5vert

There is no tranny, clutch or pressure plate... I think the tranny will run at least about 1000, and clutch/pp about 450. Mating harness about 300. Looks like you'll still need to add the factory wiring harness and PCM as well.

Not that great a deal IMO. I'm sure you can find a LS1/T56 combo for 3500 or slightly higher if you're not in a rush.

sb427f-car

Exactly, I'm not in a rush. My point on that link was that you can find deals, you just have to shop.

BTW, I keep meaning to ask you...what rear end are you running?

Things I've been trying to keep in mind are GM or Ford 5 bolt lug patterns for ease of finding wheels, brakes. Additionally, I'm not a huge fan of BIG wheels and tires (there's a reason for sidewalls, IMHO). The biggest thing is light weight to keep an axel alive, but that's still a concern.

99c5vert

The very first engine in my car was a toyota twin cam (about 26 years ago). The rear end was/is a Toyota Supra solid axle (from MK-I supra, which had something like 110 hp).

At some point in the 90's the 3rd member was upgraded to TruTrac. That's what's still there. Someday it will break, and I'll have to go to a different rear. Ford 9" rears have been used on at least one Rotus, so that might be the way I go (with quaife center section)- and not ever worry about it.

I'm almost afraid to put the car on the dyno especially after the head/cam package.

sb427f-car

Good lord...I need to take a ride with you @ Aberdeen in the spring then! Of course, that'll probably sell me on the v-8 of course, lol.

I've gotta think about brakes, wheels, and tires, and then setup my suspension around them. One thing is set in stone about that, 3 link!

sb427f-car

Just to keep this thing going...I'm really back and forth on engine options, but got another link...so I'm trying to be consolidated in my information sources.

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/index.php

chuntington101

if you keep the weight down sb427f_car then the breaks dont have to be big. you could get away with focus sized calippers on 300mm discs.

as for wheels and tires i like 13-15inch rims on a 7 style car. any bigger than that and it just gets silly!

Chris.

sb427f-car

I'm thinking 15 or 16. Definately NO bigger thatn 16. Ideally 15.


I came across someone that's working on designing his own frame (basically just altering it for more stiffness) and is running an LS1. Said he's trying to set the motor and trans back and use weight to ballast it out to about a 40-60 bias.