With all the oil pan issues, why not go dry sump?
#1
With all the oil pan issues, why not go dry sump?
I don't know anything about either, but with so many problems related to the oil pan, why not switch to a dry sump?
Wouldn't that solve a lot of clearance issues?
Wouldn't that solve a lot of clearance issues?
#3
Originally Posted by danglerb
I don't know anything about either, but with so many problems related to the oil pan, why not switch to a dry sump?
Wouldn't that solve a lot of clearance issues?
Wouldn't that solve a lot of clearance issues?
1- In my application the engine bay is FULL, so I have no room for the remote reservoir
2- Even though the pan is the lowest point, I realized that most of the time I hit the bottom of the bellhousing, since it's further back in the chassis.
The ASA setup I have is from a blown engine, so it will have to be rebuilt. I have the pan, lines, pump, and brackets, pulley and tentioner.
#5
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And quite honestly, building a custom oil pan for these motors really isn't that difficult. I fabbed one up for my Bravada conversion (S10 Blazer w/ AWD). All it took is a 2' x 4' piece of 16 ga sheet and about 5' of 3/8" x 1.5" CRS barstock. Couple hours hacking, chopping, drilling, and welding and I had a complete pan.
I won't say that anybody can do it, but if you're competent with a welder and have a drill press, you can build a pan. There aren't really any tricky points.
'JustDreamin'
I won't say that anybody can do it, but if you're competent with a welder and have a drill press, you can build a pan. There aren't really any tricky points.
'JustDreamin'
#6
Originally Posted by G-Body
Yes it would solve clearance issues, but it is cost prohibitive. It costs a LOT more to convert to a dry sump than to rework a stock pan, or even to build a completely new pan.
#7
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Originally Posted by 99c5vert
I have a ASA dry sump setup setting in my garage, but decided not to even try it for two reasons:
1- In my application the engine bay is FULL, so I have no room for the remote reservoir
2- Even though the pan is the lowest point, I realized that most of the time I hit the bottom of the bellhousing, since it's further back in the chassis.
The ASA setup I have is from a blown engine, so it will have to be rebuilt. I have the pan, lines, pump, and brackets, pulley and tentioner.
1- In my application the engine bay is FULL, so I have no room for the remote reservoir
2- Even though the pan is the lowest point, I realized that most of the time I hit the bottom of the bellhousing, since it's further back in the chassis.
The ASA setup I have is from a blown engine, so it will have to be rebuilt. I have the pan, lines, pump, and brackets, pulley and tentioner.
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#8
I'm pretty sure I bought mine for less than $500 from ebay. I have no idea what it costs to rebuild. I'll be shocked if it's any more than 200-300. I can go dig up the emails... I'll sell it at the same price I bought it if you're interested.
I don't have the remote oil canister. That's something you'll have to get to fit your car.
I don't have the remote oil canister. That's something you'll have to get to fit your car.
#9
Actually, here is the link to the auction. I paid $417 for the setup, and paid another guy $83 to pick it up and ship it for me (I wasn't sure about the seller after reading up on him, but everything worked out).
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT
#10
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Used race car parts are great!
I definately need to learn the wonders of eBay if I'm gonna do this Seven...
Which reminds me...I still gotta come see your's.
I definately need to learn the wonders of eBay if I'm gonna do this Seven...
Which reminds me...I still gotta come see your's.
#11
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Originally Posted by 99c5vert
I'm pretty sure I bought mine for less than $500 from ebay. I have no idea what it costs to rebuild. I'll be shocked if it's any more than 200-300. I can go dig up the emails... I'll sell it at the same price I bought it if you're interested.
I don't have the remote oil canister. That's something you'll have to get to fit your car.
I don't have the remote oil canister. That's something you'll have to get to fit your car.
Thanks!
#12
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Originally Posted by 99c5vert
It's not THAT unreasonable... there are other benefits to dry sump, such as reduced windage losses, and reduced chance of losing pressure in high cornering.
#13
Originally Posted by Ted J
Would you be able to email me some pictures of the set up? (tjmcp@yahoo.com) I looked at the auction and all the pics came up as red X's.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#14
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It depends on what you consider reasonable. I put a system together from used race products (all in VGC) plus an ARE pan and I have about $2000 in the oiling system on an otherwise stock motor.
#15
In a racing situation dry sump gets some HP that may not be available from other areas limited by rules, and it provides better oiling, that it costs more money is what racing is all about.
#16
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I just got the january issue of Hot Rod and in the reader questions section there was a guy asking about swapping an LS7 into his 65 El Camino. They said that the dry sump pan would not even come close to fitting. They said that GM was working on swapping an LS7 into a 60`s A-Body and that they chose to notch the crossmember because the pan has oil passages in it and would be very difficult to modify.
#18
Originally Posted by under pressure
I have seen pictures of 99C5vert's dry sump system. Very nice and compact. I don't think you could duplicate this system for under $1500 new.
Hopefully it won't be mine for long