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With all the oil pan issues, why not go dry sump?

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Old 11-11-2006, 09:44 PM
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Default With all the oil pan issues, why not go dry sump?

I don't know anything about either, but with so many problems related to the oil pan, why not switch to a dry sump?

Wouldn't that solve a lot of clearance issues?
Old 11-11-2006, 11:02 PM
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Yes it would solve clearance issues, but it is cost prohibitive. It costs a LOT more to convert to a dry sump than to rework a stock pan, or even to build a completely new pan.
Old 11-12-2006, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by danglerb
I don't know anything about either, but with so many problems related to the oil pan, why not switch to a dry sump?

Wouldn't that solve a lot of clearance issues?
I have a ASA dry sump setup setting in my garage, but decided not to even try it for two reasons:

1- In my application the engine bay is FULL, so I have no room for the remote reservoir

2- Even though the pan is the lowest point, I realized that most of the time I hit the bottom of the bellhousing, since it's further back in the chassis.

The ASA setup I have is from a blown engine, so it will have to be rebuilt. I have the pan, lines, pump, and brackets, pulley and tentioner.
Old 11-13-2006, 12:40 AM
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I was thinking K member clearance.

Ouch, whack the bellhousing and it could be nasty.
Old 11-13-2006, 08:04 AM
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And quite honestly, building a custom oil pan for these motors really isn't that difficult. I fabbed one up for my Bravada conversion (S10 Blazer w/ AWD). All it took is a 2' x 4' piece of 16 ga sheet and about 5' of 3/8" x 1.5" CRS barstock. Couple hours hacking, chopping, drilling, and welding and I had a complete pan.

I won't say that anybody can do it, but if you're competent with a welder and have a drill press, you can build a pan. There aren't really any tricky points.

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Old 11-13-2006, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by G-Body
Yes it would solve clearance issues, but it is cost prohibitive. It costs a LOT more to convert to a dry sump than to rework a stock pan, or even to build a completely new pan.
It's not THAT unreasonable... there are other benefits to dry sump, such as reduced windage losses, and reduced chance of losing pressure in high cornering.
Old 11-13-2006, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 99c5vert
I have a ASA dry sump setup setting in my garage, but decided not to even try it for two reasons:

1- In my application the engine bay is FULL, so I have no room for the remote reservoir

2- Even though the pan is the lowest point, I realized that most of the time I hit the bottom of the bellhousing, since it's further back in the chassis.

The ASA setup I have is from a blown engine, so it will have to be rebuilt. I have the pan, lines, pump, and brackets, pulley and tentioner.
How much does a sytsem like that cost to rebuild and how much did it cost to buy off of the blown engine?
Old 11-13-2006, 04:49 PM
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I'm pretty sure I bought mine for less than $500 from ebay. I have no idea what it costs to rebuild. I'll be shocked if it's any more than 200-300. I can go dig up the emails... I'll sell it at the same price I bought it if you're interested.

I don't have the remote oil canister. That's something you'll have to get to fit your car.
Old 11-13-2006, 04:51 PM
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Actually, here is the link to the auction. I paid $417 for the setup, and paid another guy $83 to pick it up and ship it for me (I wasn't sure about the seller after reading up on him, but everything worked out).

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT
Old 11-14-2006, 10:37 AM
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Used race car parts are great!

I definately need to learn the wonders of eBay if I'm gonna do this Seven...

Which reminds me...I still gotta come see your's.
Old 11-14-2006, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 99c5vert
I'm pretty sure I bought mine for less than $500 from ebay. I have no idea what it costs to rebuild. I'll be shocked if it's any more than 200-300. I can go dig up the emails... I'll sell it at the same price I bought it if you're interested.

I don't have the remote oil canister. That's something you'll have to get to fit your car.
Would you be able to email me some pictures of the set up? (tjmcp@yahoo.com) I looked at the auction and all the pics came up as red X's.

Thanks!
Old 11-14-2006, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 99c5vert
It's not THAT unreasonable... there are other benefits to dry sump, such as reduced windage losses, and reduced chance of losing pressure in high cornering.
Wow, I didn`t think it could be done that reasonably. With the prices that stock f-body pans are going for it really is not that much more.
Old 11-14-2006, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Ted J
Would you be able to email me some pictures of the set up? (tjmcp@yahoo.com) I looked at the auction and all the pics came up as red X's.

Thanks!
You have email
Old 11-15-2006, 11:11 AM
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It depends on what you consider reasonable. I put a system together from used race products (all in VGC) plus an ARE pan and I have about $2000 in the oiling system on an otherwise stock motor.
Old 11-15-2006, 04:43 PM
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In a racing situation dry sump gets some HP that may not be available from other areas limited by rules, and it provides better oiling, that it costs more money is what racing is all about.
Old 11-15-2006, 10:42 PM
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I just got the january issue of Hot Rod and in the reader questions section there was a guy asking about swapping an LS7 into his 65 El Camino. They said that the dry sump pan would not even come close to fitting. They said that GM was working on swapping an LS7 into a 60`s A-Body and that they chose to notch the crossmember because the pan has oil passages in it and would be very difficult to modify.
Old 11-15-2006, 11:36 PM
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I have seen pictures of 99C5vert's dry sump system. Very nice and compact. I don't think you could duplicate this system for under $1500 new.
Old 11-15-2006, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by under pressure
I have seen pictures of 99C5vert's dry sump system. Very nice and compact. I don't think you could duplicate this system for under $1500 new.
used stuff works just as well
Hopefully it won't be mine for long



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