Anybody have a RUNNING LS1 swap Mustang with STICK shift AND AC and EFI?
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Anybody have a RUNNING LS1 swap Mustang with STICK shift AND AC and EFI?
I have seen like 1 with a working T56 setup, a few with EFI and what not and I dont think any with working ac on a Fox Body? There has to be some out there? I have been around plenty of F-Bodys and Mustangs. What intrigues me about this swap is the fact that people say the LS1 sits LOWER and further back, which should make the car handle alot better and plus getting weight off the front end for launching.
Unlike some people, I have been on BOTH sides of the fence and prefer the Mustang looks and feel but doing a lighter and more reliable block itself with some easy hp on tap isnt a bad idea no matter what it is. The main thing though is keeping the ac and having a stick shift work.
Me and a buddy of mine have an idea on how to use a clutch cable setup from a Mustang but no idea if it will work, I dont see why it wouldnt but what gets me is nobody has really tried it or made it work yet and I have only seen one car on here with a working hydraulic setup.
I have searched and searched and am aware of how LX1 did his setup in the car he sold but it seemed like a bit of fabrication and nobody else has made it work that I have seen.
Unlike some people, I have been on BOTH sides of the fence and prefer the Mustang looks and feel but doing a lighter and more reliable block itself with some easy hp on tap isnt a bad idea no matter what it is. The main thing though is keeping the ac and having a stick shift work.
Me and a buddy of mine have an idea on how to use a clutch cable setup from a Mustang but no idea if it will work, I dont see why it wouldnt but what gets me is nobody has really tried it or made it work yet and I have only seen one car on here with a working hydraulic setup.
I have searched and searched and am aware of how LX1 did his setup in the car he sold but it seemed like a bit of fabrication and nobody else has made it work that I have seen.
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there's a few i've seen with a 6spd already built, including mine that LX1 sold me. as for a/c, i'm sure it can be done, but i'm not sure if an f-body unit could be used or if you'd need a smaller unit. i'd have to take a look at the car some time to see if the room is there, but i'm really not planning on doing one myself.
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My friend's idea is, cut the bellhousing, take a 5.0 T5 bellhousing and cut the nut that the pivot ball for the clutch fork sits on, have it welded into the LS1 T56 bellhousing, use the clutch fork or whatever clutch fork the Mustang guys use with a T56 and in theroy the cable setup might work?
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Explorers didnt have aluminum blocks and it's more than just the weight obviously. If I were gonna go through the trouble of a swap, it would not be for something that makes the same or similar power to a 5.0 with a smaller aftermarket unless doing a Cobra motor swap or something and thats too much money. Not to mention all the 2V setups were iron and heavy as hell anyway.
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the 5.0 weighs the same as a 4.6 anyway. Swapping a 5.0 to a 4.6 would be retarded unless you are doing it for a class like you mentioned. The ls1 swap is smart because of the 340 rwhp and 30 mpg using a 6 speed in a 3000 pound car. Thats why I did it. My Datsun runs fast as hell and gets 32 mpg on the highway.
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Originally Posted by s10-den
I think he told me it was an explorer block. He would know ,he won the street stock championship last year in mod motor!, if it aint the exsplorer,what was it?
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Originally Posted by Speeds8erM-1
My friend's idea is, cut the bellhousing, take a 5.0 T5 bellhousing and cut the nut that the pivot ball for the clutch fork sits on, have it welded into the LS1 T56 bellhousing, use the clutch fork or whatever clutch fork the Mustang guys use with a T56 and in theroy the cable setup might work?
Here's why I think so:
1.) Welding on the bellhousing will be difficult. You're assuming that they the 2 bellhousings are made of compatible alloys (not a safe bet). And welding used cast aluminum is a pain in the a$$, because cast aluminum is somewhat porous and soaks up oil. That oil causes all kinds of difficulty (inclusions and such) and is tought to get out of the casting.
2.) Even if you manage to get it to weld, you're likely to have it warp all over the place (so that the transmission is no longer parallel and concentric with the crankshaft).
3.) Getting the alignment of the clutch fork pieces right will require some amount of precision, more than I think would be easily done with the cut-and-paste method.
I'm not saying you can't do it that way, just I think there are easier ways.
'JustDreamin'
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What about the ac though. There has to be a way to make it work but I dont know which parts from what you would use though? My friend is needing custom lines for his 88 Camaro he is doing a 3.8 swap in and so far he cant find anybody here that can do it and everytime he has heard of getting it done, it was $$$$$$$$$$$$$.
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Originally Posted by JustDreamin
I think it would be easier to keep the T56 hydraulics and work on adapting the master cylinder to the mustang clutch pedal.
Here's why I think so:
1.) Welding on the bellhousing will be difficult. You're assuming that they the 2 bellhousings are made of compatible alloys (not a safe bet). And welding used cast aluminum is a pain in the a$$, because cast aluminum is somewhat porous and soaks up oil. That oil causes all kinds of difficulty (inclusions and such) and is tought to get out of the casting.
2.) Even if you manage to get it to weld, you're likely to have it warp all over the place (so that the transmission is no longer parallel and concentric with the crankshaft).
3.) Getting the alignment of the clutch fork pieces right will require some amount of precision, more than I think would be easily done with the cut-and-paste method.
I'm not saying you can't do it that way, just I think there are easier ways.
'JustDreamin'
Here's why I think so:
1.) Welding on the bellhousing will be difficult. You're assuming that they the 2 bellhousings are made of compatible alloys (not a safe bet). And welding used cast aluminum is a pain in the a$$, because cast aluminum is somewhat porous and soaks up oil. That oil causes all kinds of difficulty (inclusions and such) and is tought to get out of the casting.
2.) Even if you manage to get it to weld, you're likely to have it warp all over the place (so that the transmission is no longer parallel and concentric with the crankshaft).
3.) Getting the alignment of the clutch fork pieces right will require some amount of precision, more than I think would be easily done with the cut-and-paste method.
I'm not saying you can't do it that way, just I think there are easier ways.
'JustDreamin'
The turbo coupe pedal swap and stuff doesnt seem all that easy and seems like a hugh pita, seeing how only ONE car has one running and working. Plus I HATE the hydraulic setup on F-Bodys, with the bleeding it and the master cylinder failures, clutches not disengaging, bleh.
I know somebody that ran a TKO 600 in an S-10 with an LS1, I think the transmission was Ford style with some adapter deal? He had to use some kind of pedals and McLeod Adjustable Throw Out Bearing, hmmm, maybe I should inquire more into how he did that.
EDIT: He used stock S-10 pedals, slave and master?
Last edited by Speeds8erM-1; 01-21-2007 at 12:07 AM.
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Wow, I can't believe I didn't see this thread when it was new
I went automatic, but I did a full A/C system. I weighed the options and decided it was best to use the entire system from a Camaro. The HVAC box needed some work to make the larger Camaro evap coil fit, and I needed to extend the lines to reach the stuff up front, but that was all pretty straight forward. Here's a couple pics:
I went automatic, but I did a full A/C system. I weighed the options and decided it was best to use the entire system from a Camaro. The HVAC box needed some work to make the larger Camaro evap coil fit, and I needed to extend the lines to reach the stuff up front, but that was all pretty straight forward. Here's a couple pics:
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wow, that seems like alot of work to remove the heater box from the car...It looks good though. Why couldn't you just have some lines built that connect the Ford evap/condesor/dryer to the GM compressor?
As for the hyd. T/O bearing with the GM t56 I have no ideas...
As for the hyd. T/O bearing with the GM t56 I have no ideas...
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It fits well, with the exception of the front sway bar. It runs smack dab where the compressor wants to be. I'm still working on what bar will fit, short of bending one up myself I *think* the 2005+ Mustang bar will fit though, because it has a longer "reach." Just means you have to move the frame brackets farther forward. No pics yet, but I will once I get the stupid car back from paint