Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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So here's the game plan 00 Mustang + LSx + huge turbo :)

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Old 05-17-2008, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Orangepeeler
Somehow we are allowing Phil to sidetrack us and get away from the REAL topic at hand:

VIDEOS!!!!!!!!!!!!

Please for the love of God!! I will not make it through the weekend without them!!
Just got done working, hopefully tomorrow I'll have a few minutes to convert the video.
Old 05-17-2008, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ALL UC2
i wired up my mustangs with all the power stuff working stilll too.......power windows and locks dont add that much weight.....


did you use the factory switches i guess????? i dont know about the locks cause my car had shaved door handles when i got it.........windows took me a little bit to figure out but i got it.....

did you rewire it to start off the key too or a switch panel???


looks good man....
Yeah, the starter is wired to the factory key and ignition. Eric @ Painless made a custom harness that wired everything up. The windows and locks were a problem because we eliminated some of the factory electronics.
Old 05-17-2008, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TJ
ya gotta have power windows. i was replying about power locks.
I was on the fence about the locks. I wanted to be able to unlock the passenger door instead of leaning across which would be tough with the seat/cage/chute release/belts.
Old 05-17-2008, 10:18 PM
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We've got dyno time setup on thrusday and sunday to tune it. Not sure if we're goign to leave the 95mm on or slap the 106 on and go for the gusto.
Old 05-18-2008, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
We've got dyno time setup on thrusday and sunday to tune it. Not sure if we're goign to leave the 95mm on or slap the 106 on and go for the gusto.
Go big or go home, lol. Is the fuel system up to snuff for the 106? I know wormboy at Lmr had some problems when they went from the 95 to 106. Their fuel system wouldnt supply enough fuel. I would put the 95 on for now and get used to it. Get some numbers and go from there. Then you have the 106 sitting there to step up to.
Old 05-18-2008, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
You guys are brutal. If I could install a good sound system with less than 20lbs added I would.
You could build a sick *** carbon fiber box.

And of course, your car is amazing.
Old 05-18-2008, 09:51 PM
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ive seen an ipod and a set of speakers velcro'd to the headliner. tunes... and less than 20 onces....
haha.
Old 05-18-2008, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
You guys are brutal. If I could install a good sound system with less than 20lbs added I would.
if your serious i could do it. just take a little figuring out time.
Old 05-19-2008, 03:35 AM
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i know there are more its almost done pics and vids....cmon convert one lil movie
Old 05-19-2008, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
Not sure if how I wired the locks is correct...

Used some very very small 5 terminal relays

For the locks, I just added 2 relays inside each door...
Relay 1 Driver door:
Lock wire to Relay coil
Relay coil to ground
Relay fixed out to motor wire A(Lock wire)
switched relay close to ground
switched relay open to +12

Relay 2:
Driver door
Unlock wire to Relay coil
Relay coil to ground
Relay fixed out to motor wire b(Unlock wire)
switched relay close to ground
switched relay open to +12


When the lock relay is closed the wire A gets a ground
When the lock relay is open the wire A gets +12

When the unlock relay is closed the wire B gets a ground
When the unlock relay is open the wire B gets +12

Basically both wires are resting @ Ground, when you hit lock or unlock it operates the relay and switched that wire to +12.

Ran a Jumper wire from the driver Lock and Unlock wire and tied them into the relays in the passenger side door so both door switches operate both doors.
You only needed 2 relays to run both doors unless the relays can't handle the current of both lock motors. You just parallel the the relay commons from 1 set of relays to both door lock motors and run your other 2 wires from your passenger door switch. 4 wires total run to passenger door. You have them wired right though. It's called the 5-wire or reversing polarity rest at ground system. Typical for Fords and Chevys.
Old 05-19-2008, 01:29 PM
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Now that you say it, I can eliminate the relays in the passenger door and run a few more wires to the driver relays.
Old 05-19-2008, 01:29 PM
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Still no video...
Yesterday we got a few more things done. Worked more on the wiring, now the power windows, locks, mirrors, brake lights, tail lights, head lights ect all work. I've got to figure out how to get the reverse lights to work but that should be pretty easy. I had a switch to use on the shifter but won't work with the style of transmission in the car.

Today pulled the oil pan off and clearanced it alittle for the bolts, cleaned it out and checked the rod bolts and they were fine. Got the pan back on and all the fittings tightened up.

Found out that the transmission was leaking not sure why. Initally it had about a quart too much fluid but drained that and rechecked. Still leaking not 100% sure where its leaking. I'm thinking that it may be coming from the converter. I tore it down to use a different stator and may not have gotten the o-ring seated correctly.

Last night tried to upload the video but the camera battery died and can't find the charger....
Old 05-19-2008, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
Still no video...
Yesterday we got a few more things done. Worked more on the wiring, now the power windows, locks, mirrors, brake lights, tail lights, head lights ect all work. I've got to figure out how to get the reverse lights to work but that should be pretty easy. I had a switch to use on the shifter but won't work with the style of transmission in the car.

Today pulled the oil pan off and clearanced it alittle for the bolts, cleaned it out and checked the rod bolts and they were fine. Got the pan back on and all the fittings tightened up.

Found out that the transmission was leaking not sure why. Initally it had about a quart too much fluid but drained that and rechecked. Still leaking not 100% sure where its leaking. I'm thinking that it may be coming from the converter. I tore it down to use a different stator and may not have gotten the o-ring seated correctly.

Last night tried to upload the video but the camera battery died and can't find the charger....
If I had a spare camera I'd next day air it to you
Old 05-19-2008, 07:33 PM
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Phil, i'f your seriously considering a bit of system look into Pioneers shallow series, only 3" deep! i bet they couldn't wiegh that much.
Old 05-19-2008, 09:08 PM
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need some video Phil
Old 05-19-2008, 09:34 PM
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i think phil's toying with us with this video........cant wait to see/hear it man!!
Old 05-20-2008, 12:03 PM
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This morning I decided to tackle the leaking torque converter. Got to work @ 8, pulled the transmission, serviced the converter( the o-ring wasn't completely seated in one section) and got the transmission back in the car by 10.
Old 05-20-2008, 12:36 PM
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Nice work!
Old 05-20-2008, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
Still no video...

Last night tried to upload the video but the camera battery died and can't find the charger....
I'm calling BS..
Old 05-21-2008, 09:06 AM
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its been over a day to let that battery charge up....LETS SEE SOME VIDS!!!


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