My 240sx / S14 LS1 Swap - Progress *56k beware*
#21
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Originally Posted by fouz65
i have the ls6 intake and i had to notch my hood. it was keeping it from closing by about 1/2 inch. oil pan is about 1/2 above the rack. so its not cause the motor is too high. maybe cause my motor is alittle bit more forward.
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^ oh ok I see from your thread fouz56 that you cut more into the subframe. I have a rb20det x-member, but I believe the major difference is that the pods are moved a bit more fwd and angled differently. Also viewing a few other x-members like chin's it looks like a have a bit more to cut. How much did you guys have left over at the top of the x-member?
Thanks for looking out guys!
Thanks for looking out guys!
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kouki chassis??? whats that??
Do you want to know one of the dumbest things i have ever done... OK here you go..
Sold a 97 5sp with 70k when i only owed 3k left on it.. I bought it in 04 with 55k on it for 6200[EDIT-5200$]... heres a pic..
I want it back.
Do you want to know one of the dumbest things i have ever done... OK here you go..
Sold a 97 5sp with 70k when i only owed 3k left on it.. I bought it in 04 with 55k on it for 6200[EDIT-5200$]... heres a pic..
I want it back.
#28
nice buildup plans man, your bllack kouki is just sweet, thats going to be a nice nice car when youre done. you can easily keep the car quiet, just run a set of resonators well under the car like midway back and then get some nice mufflers or another set of resonators, it'll be perfect.
what wheels are those and do you know the rear size & offset? they look great!
what wheels are those and do you know the rear size & offset? they look great!
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Compared the stock Camaro mounting location vs. the sbc plates and mounts. In comparison, the sbc mounts move the mounting location up almost 3" (about 2.8") forward. Also, the sbc mounts aren't as wide which allows for a thinner, smaller mounting plate on the x-member.
#30
sweeeeeeettttttttt ... yea r32 rb20det crossmember is the way to go . but you notched the xmember wrong . your gonna need to cut some more back . you see the two holes that are on the top part of the crossmember , your cut should end right behind thoes two holes yours is still not enough notch to push the engine back and you will have issues if you leave it like that . also the bottom layer of metal should have never been cut . i made a pic so you can see what i should look like . its not that messed up just not the way i would have gone about cutting it
. the mounts and adapters you got are the same as mine , once you get the motor were you need it your gonna get some 2.5x2.5 1/8 thick squar steel tube. and weld them to the pods on the xmember like in this pic. one side is gonna be higher then the other . my driver side pod measured 2.5" tall . and pass side was 3.5" tall . weird but everything sits level and centerd . in this pick you can see the mount i welded to the xmember . lined up straight , no funky fab or offset bracket . drill a hole to go threw the poly mount and your done.
altima fans and ka24de koyo aluminum radiator fit nice no clearance issue . minor trimming to fans to fit koyo and rad support to push the radiator more toward the front of the car .
. the mounts and adapters you got are the same as mine , once you get the motor were you need it your gonna get some 2.5x2.5 1/8 thick squar steel tube. and weld them to the pods on the xmember like in this pic. one side is gonna be higher then the other . my driver side pod measured 2.5" tall . and pass side was 3.5" tall . weird but everything sits level and centerd . in this pick you can see the mount i welded to the xmember . lined up straight , no funky fab or offset bracket . drill a hole to go threw the poly mount and your done.
altima fans and ka24de koyo aluminum radiator fit nice no clearance issue . minor trimming to fans to fit koyo and rad support to push the radiator more toward the front of the car .
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yea. that pics hes got up there is like mine. not alot left on the top. maybe 3/4 inch. i cut just alittle less off the sides, about a 1/8 inch away from the welds. and i did cut the bottom too. about a 1/2 inch or so. it wasnt alot. and like he said. angle worked good for me. one less seem to weld. 1.5" by 1.5" fit in there real nice. it will be alittle short on meeting the top of the cross member (1/8" maybe).take a hammer to it and it will roll down tight. on my 240 x-member it did.
i'm pretty sure the bottom was right at 1.5" wider cause it matched the angle i put in there. after cutting on mine like 5 times this is how mine ended up.
i'm pretty sure the bottom was right at 1.5" wider cause it matched the angle i put in there. after cutting on mine like 5 times this is how mine ended up.
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Hey thanks for the replies guys. You two are right. I double checked the x-member fitament and they do need a bit more cutting. I'll get pictures of that tomorrow once that's done.
ls1neezy, how much beating did you have to do to the firewall/transmission tunnel? I'd just like to know before I get started on that.
ls1neezy, how much beating did you have to do to the firewall/transmission tunnel? I'd just like to know before I get started on that.
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mabe its an s13 thing but my mounts are on the other end of the spectrem. which in turn sets the motor forward about an inch from the stock mounting points. basically flip that mount setup backwards. setting it up that style should move everything backwards not forwards.
Last edited by datboibrad; 01-31-2007 at 12:35 PM.
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Originally Posted by ls1neezy
alot of pownding around the tranny tunnle . there is a big seam that you will see that crosses along the tranny tunnel . all that needs to be pownded up and out .
ive been noticing small things lately that lead me to beleive the s14 has a longer distance from motor to core support but only about 1 to 2 inches max.
btw ls1neezy. looks like you have an ls6 manifold. did you get the ls6 steam tubes or did you mod the ls1 tubes.
Last edited by datboibrad; 01-31-2007 at 12:39 PM.
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that seam in the tran tunnel is tough thou. on mine i would beat one side in and the other side would pull back out. i had to use alittle bit of heat so the seam would stretch. maybe you wont have too.
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Originally Posted by Slo_240sx
Yes I was using C5 JBA modded headers and they worked great. It should fit under the stock hood with a little bit of trimming.
The company claims them to be carb legal so I'm assuming they fit just like stock with minor variations.
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Originally Posted by mmdb
Question about headers. If the JBA shorties were designed to fit with stock like fitament could these be used? They're PACESETTER PERFORMANCE EXHAUST HEADERS.
The company claims them to be carb legal so I'm assuming they fit just like stock with minor variations.
The company claims them to be carb legal so I'm assuming they fit just like stock with minor variations.
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In this thread, you can see how Alex cut and welded the JBA Header:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...7&page=2&pp=20
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...7&page=2&pp=20